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    E46 M3 Oil Consumption - HELP

    Update 6/12/2024:

    I've completed the leakdown test hoping it would solve the mystery and tell my oil rings are bad, or my rod seal it shot, unfortunately, all it did was tell my the engine is good (Which I am very happy about, but I want to know where all the oil is going!!). Below are the leakdown numbers, so, given this, I am at a loss, what do I look at next?!

    1: 2%
    5: 1%
    3: 2%
    6: 2%
    2: 3%
    4: 3%


    ************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************************** *************


    Hey Everyone, New here, I am hoping all your brains can help me figure out a problem.

    I have a 03 E46 M3, with about 190K miles, however, the engine was totally rebuilt about 15k miles ago. She is also supercharged with a VF570 kit. I am having a pretty severe oil consumption issue (consuming about a quart every 250-300 miles). Besides the smoke and having to add oil all the time, she runs STRONG. Here are a few facts and troubleshooting I have done:

    Under heavy acceleration, I do have smoke coming out of exhaust, so I think it is burning some oil. However, based on investigation (see below), I think I'm actually burning oil, AND leaking oil, two sperate issues. Problem is, I cannot be sure how much each issue contributes, so for example, if it's only burning a bit, a catch can will probably fix that (however, when I get on it, it's a LOT of smoke).

    So, for this thread, I will break down my findings in two categories, internal (burning) and external (leaking):

    Internal:
    1. My biggest fear is rings or head gasket (all were brand new when engine was rebuilt, but anything is possible. I did a compression check and compression on all cylinders is 170-175, so I do not think its rings or head gasket. I will probably do a leak down test later just to be 100% sure, but with those compression readings, I doubt it.
    2. I do NOT have a catch can on her yet, with her being supercharged (pushing about 6psi boost), I figure I should add one. This may help, and if I'm only burning a little, may solve the problem completely, BUT, is there anything else anyone thinks I should check?

    External Leak:
    1. I have never seen oil on the ground, so I figured my oil consumption was all internal, however I finally jacked her up and puled the belly pans off and sure enough there was oil there. Not enough to account for a quart every few hundred miles, but that is just sitting in the driveway. I am thinking that when she is driving and under pressure (especially since I am boosted), it leaks more. When I roll my windows down, I do smell oil, so I assuming that is oil leaking onto the exhaust manifolds.
    2. When trying to trace the oil I saw it in two spots, 1, SLIGHT weeping on the oil filter. I'm assuming the gasket, but is barely weeping, so definitely not my issue. the other was on the passengers side dripping down the rear of the engine around the constant pressure valve area.
    3. When I saw oil in this area, first instinct is CPV (even though it was just replaced with viton o-rings). I pulled it anyway to see, and the o-ring was pristine, so it is not the problem (I put a new o-ring on again when re-installing it)
    4. All other common leak areas were replaced as well with the rebuild, CCV, valve cover gasket, etc, so I cannot rule them out, but hopefully there is something else I am missing and they are fine. Is there a good way to check CCV rather than just replace it and cross my fingers?
    5. I did try to get an inspection mirror behind the engine and THINK I may have seen some oil weeping out what I assume is the valve cover gasket (see image)
    Click image for larger version  Name:	Media.jpg Views:	230 Size:	146.6 KB ID:	266191

    6. I do see oil coming out of what looks like the junction between the motor and the transmission (see image)
    Click image for larger version  Name:	Media (1).jpg Views:	216 Size:	263.0 KB ID:	266192 Click image for larger version  Name:	Media (2).jpg Views:	216 Size:	223.4 KB ID:	266193



    Part of me is wondering if the boost is causing the crank case to pressurize and forcing oil out the seals, but if that was the case, I do not understand how I am also burning oil as I would image the blow-by causing the crankcase to pressurize wouldn't allow oil in the cylinders.

    So at this point, I am thinking valve cover gasket (based on first
    pic above) or something between the tranny and engine.....what am I missing? what else can I do to help isolate either my oil burning or my oil leaking issue? 10W-60 is expensive!​
    Last edited by barlowrs; 06-12-2024, 02:43 PM. Reason: Added Leakdown Results

    #2
    Leaking a quart of oil every 300 miles leaves a mess


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Comment


      #3
      That sucks man. I had my motor rebuilt 10k miles ago and it has been burning oil since then. So annoying because it never burned oil before. The whole back of the car gets dirty with oil and I have to top it off between oil changes.

      Did you find any thing?

      Comment


        #4
        Add dye and get a black light.
        3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

        Comment


          #5
          I would question whether your oil control rings are somehow the culprit. As you are probably aware the oil control ring(s) consists of a top and bottom ring with a “corrugated” separator in between them, allowing oil to collect there until flowing back into the crankcase. Its job is to scrape excess oil from the cylinder walls and allowing it to drain through slots in the piston ring land (the groove where the rings fit into the piston), back into the crankcase. You can have perfect compression (good top rings) and have massive oil consumption (bad oil control rings), as well as have no oil consumption (good oil control rings) and have low compression (bad top rings). I’m sure there is some compression boost from good oil control rings, but I believe it is negligible.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by S54330Ci View Post
            I would question whether your oil control rings are somehow the culprit. As you are probably aware the oil control ring(s) consists of a top and bottom ring with a “corrugated” separator in between them, allowing oil to collect there until flowing back into the crankcase. Its job is to scrape excess oil from the cylinder walls and allowing it to drain through slots in the piston ring land (the groove where the rings fit into the piston), back into the crankcase. You can have perfect compression (good top rings) and have massive oil consumption (bad oil control rings), as well as have no oil consumption (good oil control rings) and have low compression (bad top rings). I’m sure there is some compression boost from good oil control rings, but I believe it is negligible.
            Is there a way to check for this? Would a leakdown test confirm this?

            Comment


              #7
              I have a similar problem. Only about ~70K on the motor, no smoke and otherwise runs fine.. just burns a ton of oil. Aside from replacing valve stem seals, I don't know what it could be other than the aforementioned oil control rings.

              Honestly, I've heard people have had success with pouring some Marvel Mystery oil in the spark plus holes to address the stuck rings. Apparently, it can work. Has anyone had success/know of others who've done that?

              Comment


                #8
                If it is burning that much oil, my guess is valve stem seals or oil control rings as others have mentioned. Which valve stem seals did you use?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by barlowrs View Post

                  Is there a way to check for this? Would a leakdown test confirm this?
                  Not necessarily. A leakdown test will determine the condition of your upper rings (compression rings) and valves and if they are sealing properly. Maybe others have a method for checking, but the only way I know of to check your oil control rings is to do an engine teardown.

                  Obviously I'd explore all other leak alternatives before going down the teardown path.
                  Last edited by S54330Ci; 05-30-2024, 10:41 AM.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    That droplet forming on the bell housing is exactly what I found when my CPV was leaking. So, check that and the VCG, cam pos sensors, oil level sensor. But yes you might be burning it internally as well.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Slideways View Post
                      If it is burning that much oil, my guess is valve stem seals or oil control rings as others have mentioned. Which valve stem seals did you use?
                      Not sure the brand that was used, the shop is very reputable, so I would image they used good quality. Here is a list of what was done on the rebuild.

                      Rebuild Included:
                      • Lang Racing CP Pistons
                      • XP Tri-metal Racing Bearing Set
                      • Complete Head dissasembly, inspection, pressure check
                      • High Performance 5 Angle Valve job
                      • New Valve Seals
                      • Trueness check (resurface if needed, but dont think mine needed)
                      • Bore and Hone block to 87.25mm
                      • Surface Block Deck
                      • Hot Tank and Clean
                      • All new bolts (crankshaft, head, bearing cap, cam bolts, etc)
                      • Beisan System Tensioning Rail
                      • CPV with Viton O-ring Upgrade
                      • New Oil Pump and Timing Chain
                      • New BMW Oil Pump
                      • Block Complete Teardown and inspection (main bearing clearance, rod bearing clearing, balancing piston and rod, Piston to Bore clearance, Piston Ring Gap,
                      • Valve Shim Clearance
                      • VANOS Unit
                      • Valve cover and oil pan gaskets
                      • S54 Widened Rod Bearing Kit (crankshaft modified for wider journal)
                      • Carillio Rods
                      • Cylinder Head Gasket Set
                      • Crankcase Gasket Set
                      • Beisan Systems Plate Seal Kit
                      • Beisan Systems VANOS Oil Pump Hub Disc
                      • Beisan Systems Anti Rattle it
                      • Fluidyne Oil Cooler/hoses

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by barlowrs View Post

                        Not sure the brand that was used, the shop is very reputable, so I would image they used good quality. Here is a list of what was done on the rebuild.

                        Rebuild Included:
                        • Lang Racing CP Pistons
                        • XP Tri-metal Racing Bearing Set
                        • Complete Head dissasembly, inspection, pressure check
                        • High Performance 5 Angle Valve job
                        • New Valve Seals
                        • Trueness check (resurface if needed, but dont think mine needed)
                        • Bore and Hone block to 87.25mm
                        • Surface Block Deck
                        • Hot Tank and Clean
                        • All new bolts (crankshaft, head, bearing cap, cam bolts, etc)
                        • Beisan System Tensioning Rail
                        • CPV with Viton O-ring Upgrade
                        • New Oil Pump and Timing Chain
                        • New BMW Oil Pump
                        • Block Complete Teardown and inspection (main bearing clearance, rod bearing clearing, balancing piston and rod, Piston to Bore clearance, Piston Ring Gap,
                        • Valve Shim Clearance
                        • VANOS Unit
                        • Valve cover and oil pan gaskets
                        • S54 Widened Rod Bearing Kit (crankshaft modified for wider journal)
                        • Carillio Rods
                        • Cylinder Head Gasket Set
                        • Crankcase Gasket Set
                        • Beisan Systems Plate Seal Kit
                        • Beisan Systems VANOS Oil Pump Hub Disc
                        • Beisan Systems Anti Rattle it
                        • Fluidyne Oil Cooler/hoses
                        Assuming this is a Lang engine build. Any input from them?

                        A while back, a few people had issues with Supertech valve stem seals and Lang lists other Supertech parts for their rebuilt cylinder heads.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by barlowrs View Post

                          Not sure the brand that was used, the shop is very reputable, so I would image they used good quality. Here is a list of what was done on the rebuild.

                          Rebuild Included:
                          • Lang Racing CP Pistons
                          • XP Tri-metal Racing Bearing Set
                          • Complete Head dissasembly, inspection, pressure check
                          • High Performance 5 Angle Valve job
                          • New Valve Seals
                          • Trueness check (resurface if needed, but dont think mine needed)
                          • Bore and Hone block to 87.25mm
                          • Surface Block Deck
                          • Hot Tank and Clean
                          • All new bolts (crankshaft, head, bearing cap, cam bolts, etc)
                          • Beisan System Tensioning Rail
                          • CPV with Viton O-ring Upgrade
                          • New Oil Pump and Timing Chain
                          • New BMW Oil Pump
                          • Block Complete Teardown and inspection (main bearing clearance, rod bearing clearing, balancing piston and rod, Piston to Bore clearance, Piston Ring Gap,
                          • Valve Shim Clearance
                          • VANOS Unit
                          • Valve cover and oil pan gaskets
                          • S54 Widened Rod Bearing Kit (crankshaft modified for wider journal)
                          • Carillio Rods
                          • Cylinder Head Gasket Set
                          • Crankcase Gasket Set
                          • Beisan Systems Plate Seal Kit
                          • Beisan Systems VANOS Oil Pump Hub Disc
                          • Beisan Systems Anti Rattle it
                          • Fluidyne Oil Cooler/hoses
                          Nice thorough rebuild, but why did you decide to modify your crankshaft to fit aftermarket rods or was it a "while I'm in there" decision based on your VF570? Same question for the pistons and bearing set, you wanted to lower your compression so you went aftermarket?

                          I think a lot of guys on here will tell you about the importance of tolerances with the S54, the engine is finicky as hell. For a short while I was asking shops about doing my rod bearing job, I had purchased aftermarket bearings (VAC) and they all refused me, told me they only install OEM. I sold the VAC's and have a set of OEM bearings ready to go in when I get around to it.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Slideways View Post

                            Assuming this is a Lang engine build. Any input from them?

                            A while back, a few people had issues with Supertech valve stem seals and Lang lists other Supertech parts for their rebuilt cylinder heads.
                            Correct, its a Lang Build. Unfortunately I have moved to Utah now, so its a bit of a haul to their shop, but I have been in contact with them. They want to see my leakdown results once I do it.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by WestBankM4 View Post

                              Nice thorough rebuild, but why did you decide to modify your crankshaft to fit aftermarket rods or was it a "while I'm in there" decision based on your VF570? Same question for the pistons and bearing set, you wanted to lower your compression so you went aftermarket?

                              I think a lot of guys on here will tell you about the importance of tolerances with the S54, the engine is finicky as hell. For a short while I was asking shops about doing my rod bearing job, I had purchased aftermarket bearings (VAC) and they all refused me, told me they only install OEM. I sold the VAC's and have a set of OEM bearings ready to go in when I get around to it.
                              Correct, it was a "while we are in there" and more to build it to handle all the power I want to throw at it.

                              Comment

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