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Beisan vanos anti rattle post install update

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    Beisan vanos anti rattle post install update



    Maybe some of you remember me posting this video a year ago. I diagnosed a bad vanos bearing.I was bummed out as the anti rattle kit was the only thing I left out of the vanos bulletproof.

    Beisan told me that I still wasn’t required to change it however if I did change it the sound would disappear.

    It didn’t sit right with me so I decided to replace it. For some reason I was afraid of doing this part of the job. But I have just did it and it took all about 2 hours for the actual rattle kit install. Not sure why I was avoiding it so much… the motor is quieter than I’ve ever heard it before. Sounds like a sowing machine. Couldn’t be happier with the results they are night and day. Highly recommend!

    #2
    Originally posted by SteelGreyM View Post
    1. For some reason I was afraid of doing this part of the job. But I have just did it and it took all about 2 hours for the actual rattle kit install. Not sure why I was avoiding it so much…
    2. the motor is quieter than I’ve ever heard it before. Sounds like a sowing machine. Couldn’t be happier with the results they are night and day. Highly recommend!
    Did you find too much axial plays in the bearing?
    1. It's not a trivia job: the spacer or the disks thickness have to be modified for a perfect zero plays -- too loose will cause the rattle and too tight will cause bearing damage. How did you adjust the plays?
    2. I hope the bearing was adjusted correctly; if it's somewhat a little tight, this can cause the piston to spin with the cam leading to fast wear on the piston seals even though it's quiet. Of course with too much plays it would rattle.

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      #3
      One more point: even if the bearing not too tight, but having some drag, this could rotate the vanos piston with the cam and cause fast wear on the piston seals.
      So it's quite challenge to get the adjustment just right, that no plays and no drag on the bearing.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by sapote View Post
        One more point: even if the bearing not too tight, but having some drag, this could rotate the vanos piston with the cam and cause fast wear on the piston seals.
        So it's quite challenge to get the adjustment just right, that no plays and no drag on the bearing.
        One of them was perfect straight out of the box. The other needed minor adjustment. There is almost no drag on the one I had to adjust but there is a tiny tiny bit. The instructions did say any level of resistance without binding is optimal fit. And I had almost zero resistance. So I think im alright. But now you make me want to take it all apart again and sand it down a hair more...

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          #5
          Originally posted by SteelGreyM View Post

          One of them was perfect straight out of the box. The other needed minor adjustment. There is almost no drag on the one I had to adjust but there is a tiny tiny bit. The instructions did say any level of resistance without binding is optimal fit. And I had almost zero resistance. So I think im alright. But now you make me want to take it all apart again and sand it down a hair more...
          What are new parts and old parts? I thought people only get the new spacer ring and the two flat disks if the needle bearing is ok.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by sapote View Post

            What are new parts and old parts? I thought people only get the new spacer ring and the two flat disks if the needle bearing is ok.
            Each splined shaft has 2 needle bearings, 2 washers, and one outer bearing ring. Nearly all the internals are replaced.

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              #7
              Originally posted by SteelGreyM View Post

              Each splined shaft has 2 needle bearings, 2 washers, and one outer bearing ring. Nearly all the internals are replaced.
              I interpret the above parts as:
              2 washers = bearing thrust disks (harden and flat, not just any ordinary washers)
              1 outer bearing ring = spacer ring (to keep the clearance between the whole assembled bearing).

              "There is almost no drag on the one I had to adjust but there is a tiny tiny bit."
              So for this case, you had to sand down one of the two the bearing disks to increse the clearance? I'm surprised that this is the case, because the disk should not be sanded as this affected its flatness which is crucial for surving as the needle bearing thrust plate. I would think they should make the spacer ring thicker to have more plays initially, then it can be sanded down to for the desired plays. This is better than having the bearing too tight initially which can lead to bearing damaged when the cap is torqued to spec for checking the plays.

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