Doing inner CV boots this week- anything to know in advance?

[M3Hokie]

Hi all, I recently was lucky enough to catch a freshly torn inner CV boot while getting a pebble out from behind my rotor dust shield.. My half shaft seems to be in good shape and I don't imagine the CV joint has taken much of a beating since the grease is still mostly in there. Is there anything I need to know going down this DIY road? So far I've got the inner boot repair kit and an axle nut in my cart... Do I need anything else? Not sure if hardware going to the diff is one time use.

Also any common tips/tricks would be greatly appreciated. I can't seem to find a well documented DIY for the axle removal which is a first. Cheers

[Halftim3]

Which side are you doing?
While I was in there, I did both inner and outers for both axles. For the driver side, the exhaust has to come down a little bit to clear the axle when removing it, so the v-brace and exhaust mounts had to be removed also.
Another while I was in there I did was the wheel bearings, but ymmv.

[M3Hokie]

Which side are you doing?
While I was in there, I did both inner and outers for both axles. For the driver side, the exhaust has to come down a little bit to clear the axle when removing it, so the v-brace and exhaust mounts had to be removed also.
Another while I was in there I did was the wheel bearings, but ymmv.

Doing the driver’s side. Did you have to take the sway bar off too?

[Halftim3]

I did remove the sway bar, but you might be able to just drop the driver side for clearance. I also reused the hardware to the diff and after 7k miles its been good. Where did you get your boot kit? I remember my kits from FCP, the smaller clamp did not fit, luckily I had some proper fitting clamps on hand. I believe another member also ran into this issue with the smaller of the 2 clamps included not fitting.

[bigjae46]

Be sure to inspect the balls for any flat spots or heat spots. Also look at the races. I'd do the inner and outer boots. The outer are more of a PIA but not terrible.

I bought the GKN boot kits and the pinch clamps were not big enough, spent an hour f'ing with it. Forget if I got it from ECS or FCP. I bought the correctly sized oetiker clamps from McMaster-Carr.

If you're so inclined, you can get the CVs REM polished or maybe even WPC treated to improve the service life of the CV joint.

I've seen 4 sets of axles inspected, all of them had liquid greased in the boot. If anyone hasn't done this yet...it's probably time. Better than trying to find a used or buying a new axle.

[M3Hokie]

Got the GKN kit from FCP as well. Thanks for the heads up on the inner clamps being improperly sized. bigjae46 would you happen to remember the correct size clamps that worked for you? I'd assume somewhere in the 40mm range accounting for 38mm axle diameter and thickness of the boot?

[bigjae46]

Got the GKN kit from FCP as well. Thanks for the heads up on the inner clamps being improperly sized. bigjae46 would you happen to remember the correct size clamps that worked for you? I'd assume somewhere in the 40mm range accounting for 38mm axle diameter and thickness of the boot?

I have a bunch of sizes so not sure which one it was

Do you have what’s stamped on the clamps in the GKN kit?

[Halftim3]

You wouldn't know until you're there, but your axle might be stuck to the hub, so it might be a good idea to have an axle puller on hand to prevent some down time. I rented one from the local auto store which worked by pressing out the axle. The other side I was able to budge with a hammer.

[M3Hokie]

I have a bunch of sizes so not sure which one it was

Do you have what’s stamped on the clamps in the GKN kit?

Unfortunately not, it’s in the mail. Think I’ll just order a few sizes from McMaster-Carr to minimize downtime

[OldRanger]

It depends, but to remove and install the axle you will need special tools. My 170k mile, 3 owner, most of its life in FL car had axles seized in the hub. I was surprised how much energy it took to remove them from the hub.

to remove, do this:
https://youtu.be/d_vWJog_W1A
I broke a three jaw puller attempting to press it out without this approach to adding impact/shock. Others use an air hammer. Also, use a rotor you can sacrifice in case things get physical.

to reinstall, you will need this:

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-580411-cv-axle-shaft-puller-wheel-bearing-hub-installer-kit-bavarian-autosport/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpZWzBhC0ARIsACvjWRMhvGgHFcQxQhv7x05_5MH5rUShQDVKkyDAyUZ2_gM7gpmHv2C33tMaAsq0EALw_wcB

I tried without the axle shaft puller. Didn’t work.

[M3Hokie]

Can you just use the axle nut to draw the axle into the hub? That was my plan.

[OldRanger]

Can you just use the axle nut to draw the axle into the hub? That was my plan.

In my experience, that was not possible…and I even cleaned the axle splines and hub with PB Blaster, a wire brush and a dental pick in the hopes removing the corrosion would be helpful when I reinstalled it.

I also (carefully) hammered on the cap of the inner joint with a rubber mallet to attempt to push it far enough into to the hub to do just as you plan.

None of that worked for me.

[M3Hokie]

Welp… The bolt for the middle junction on the v brace going into the subframe broke right off … hit it with my propane torch and wd40 a few times but it still won’t budge with vice grips. I am not having fun any more lol

[OldRanger]

Welp… The bolt for the middle junction on the v brace going into the subframe broke right off

ugh…try to get some PB Blaster up in the threads and pick up an extractor set at Harbor Freight. 🤞

[M3Hokie]

Funny you say that, I went in yesterday to get this https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-...ece-59855.html

they guy told me it wouldn’t work. I was under the impression I could hammer it into the protruding shank though… should I go back for it?