e46 M3 Community-designed CAD files Master List

[Bry5on]

How delightful 🙃 I'll be interested to see how I get on fitting it to Bryson's intake duct

There are two duct files now (three if you count the non-m ZHP part) - one for the factory snorkel and one for the karb snorkel. So far they seem to be fitting well for each respective config. The karb snorkel is a bit taller, so a few millimeters more of it has to be chopped off due to the z-height limitation of the bambu P and C series printers. It shouldn’t affect operation fortunately.

[heinzboehmer]

That would be great. I’ll have the Haimus snorkel scanned and we can triangulate a better fitting aftermarket snorkel!

Hmm, this scan is a little more noisy than I remember, but you should still be able to pull out the important geometry from it: https://s.digital3dcloud.com/space/f...8-fad9ae1ec8fa

[davidinnyc]

I have a scan of a Karbonius one that I can dig up for you tomorrow, if it's useful. I think the scan is dimensionally accurate, but I would for sure do some measurement validation against your own snorkel before trusting it. These consumer grade scanners really don't like thin walled objects.

Also, just FYI, the Karb and Haimus snorkels are not exact reproductions of the stock snorkel. They both seem to be clocked slightly differently, which puts the mouth of the snorkel a good 20mm off of where the stock one is (and of course they're both off in different directions).

That would be great. I’ll have the Haimus snorkel scanned and we can triangulate a better fitting aftermarket snorkel!

[heinzboehmer]

How delightful 🙃 I'll be interested to see how I get on fitting it to Bryson's intake duct

Ha, that's exactly how we found out the geometries were different. At first I thought something was wrong with my car, but nope, turns out the aftermarket snorkels are off.

[karter16]

(and of course they're both off in different directions).

How delightful 🙃 I'll be interested to see how I get on fitting it to Bryson's intake duct

[heinzboehmer]

Anyone have a scan of a CSL snorkel handy? I keep cutting up Haimus snorkels and it’s getting expensive…

David

I have a scan of a Karbonius one that I can dig up for you tomorrow, if it's useful. I think the scan is dimensionally accurate, but I would for sure do some measurement validation against your own snorkel before trusting it. These consumer grade scanners really don't like thin walled objects.

Also, just FYI, the Karb and Haimus snorkels are not exact reproductions of the stock snorkel. They both seem to be clocked slightly differently, which puts the mouth of the snorkel a good 20mm off of where the stock one is (and of course they're both off in different directions).

[karter16]

I can have a Karbonius snorkel scanned but I like the dexterity of the OEM/Haimus one. I might go take both to a professional scanner tomorrow.


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Yeah I have a Haimus one for pretty much the same reason.

[davidinnyc]

I don't have one, but it would be very useful. It has occurred to me previously that it would be a fairly simple (in comparison to Bryson's knuckle or Heinz's front strut brace) project to recreate the original snorkel with a 3D printed body, the stock actuator and potentiometer, plus some hardware to have a functioning snorkel and flap for less than crazy money.

I can have a Karbonius snorkel scanned but I like the dexterity of the OEM/Haimus one. I might go take both to a professional scanner tomorrow.


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[karter16]

Anyone have a scan of a CSL snorkel handy? I keep cutting up Haimus snorkels and it’s getting expensive…

David

I don't have one, but it would be very useful. It has occurred to me previously that it would be a fairly simple (in comparison to Bryson's knuckle or Heinz's front strut brace) project to recreate the original snorkel with a 3D printed body, the stock actuator and potentiometer, plus some hardware to have a functioning snorkel and flap for less than crazy money.

[davidinnyc]

Anyone have a scan of a CSL snorkel handy? I keep cutting up Haimus snorkels and it’s getting expensive…

David

[Cronenberged]

Anyone have the ZHP/CSL brackets to run the larger front rotors in CAD

[discoelk]

That wouldn't be a great candidate for 3d printing. It looks like a simple cut extrusion? Might search on summit or jegs for hot rod door seals and look for something similar.

[0-60motorsports]

Hey guys, i thought i'd ask in here since you guys have done some amazing work....

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/main-forum/e46-2001-2006/285594-csl-flap-seal

Its looking really ratty without the seal and I really dont want to spend 4 figures on a whole new snorkel....

[heinzboehmer]

Awesome so you printed it and it worked out alright for you?

Worked great! Printed it out of ABS because that's what was loaded in the printer.

Having successfully installed a seal with it now (after many failed attempts), I'm pretty certain that the modifications were only necessary because my crank was messed up. They definitely don't hurt, but the original tool would probably have worked fine otherwise.

[cobra]

Few complements for cobra's awesome tool above (thanks again for sharing):

1. Crankshaft holder tool
   This serves the same purpose as 83300493843, but sendcutsend will make it for you for 1/3 the price. I got mine made out of 4.75 mm thick 304 Stainless Steel.
2. Press cup bolt guide
   This sleeve is tighter on the bolt shank than the cup is and provides a significantly longer contact surface. This helps ensure that the press cup is as square to the timing chain cover as possible. This guide does slightly interfere with the bolts on the taper tool at the very end of the pressing process, hence why it's designed to be removable. The idea is that you use the guide for the first ~5 mm of press travel, then remove it from inside the cup to fully seat the seal.
3. Modified taper tool with a 0.5mm oversized end taper OD
   My crank edge had some marring on the front edge which was catching the lip of the seals and ruining them. The oversized tool stretches the seal just enough to get it past the marred edge without permanently deforming it. I would highly recommend you use the original taper tool if possible, but this one is worth a shot if you find yourself destroying a bunch of seals.

Awesome so you printed it and it worked out alright for you?