Originally posted by bavarian3
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Reasonable price for rod bearings
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Last edited by Slideways; 08-21-2024, 10:39 AM.
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Yea, I may have to just do that. Not a lot of shops in Phoenix that I have personal experience with that I trust.
Thank you for the recommendation.
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Originally posted by mr pete View PostAny recommendations for shops in the Phoenix AZ area?
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Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
The torque sequence isn't that bad. If all else fails, just throw your purse at it...hahahaha
Seriously, a 1/2" digital torque wrench with an angle setting makes it much easier. You want 1/2 drive because it will have a longer handle for more leverage. With that, you'll need a 1/2 to 3/8" adaptor, not a big deal.
I would also not recommend doing this if you're not sure what you're doing. There were techs at the dealership I worked at that I would never let them do bearings on my customers cars. They had no understanding about bearings, clearances and torque. They just followed work instructions. I had to school some of their dumbasses what torque is and why fasteners are torqued.
That's also terrifying to hear about the "techs". lol.
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Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post
Can have all the DIY's ya want I personally wouldn't recommend it. It's an easy job if you know what you're doing and have the right tools.
Main issue I see is risk of scratching the crank, or botching something around the oil pump or pickup tubes reinstallations. Also the torque sequence is very difficult on your back.
Seriously, a 1/2" digital torque wrench with an angle setting makes it much easier. You want 1/2 drive because it will have a longer handle for more leverage. With that, you'll need a 1/2 to 3/8" adaptor, not a big deal.
I would also not recommend doing this if you're not sure what you're doing. There were techs at the dealership I worked at that I would never let them do bearings on my customers cars. They had no understanding about bearings, clearances and torque. They just followed work instructions. I had to school some of their dumbasses what torque is and why fasteners are torqued.
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Originally posted by Will View Post
I did this job using the member created DIYs from the old m3forums (Bimmerfan08 and SYT_Shadow) and things went smoothly - my engine hasn't blown up, yet (knock on wood). I was working in a garage with jack stands and basic hand tools (listed in Bimmerfan08's DIY). The only tool I bought was the 3/8" digital torque-angle from Snap-on, which isn't mandatory, but does make the tightening sequence easier.
Prior to this job, my experience working on cars included the basics: maintenance items such as valve adjustment, fluid changes, cooling system refresh, with changing the vanos or clutch as the largest job. All of the jobs were done guided by the detailed DIYs created by forum members. The vanos, rod bearings, and clutch were the biggest and most daunting jobs, but I think the anticipatory anxiety was worse than the job itself.
It definitely sucked to be working on jack stands, but hey that's what I have at the moment. Just be extra careful to ensure the car is stable on the stands, I also keep an old wheel (wider the better) or two underneath to give myself a better chance of survival in case the car falls.
Of course there are risks to working on your own cars, but be diligent, organized, and don't be in a rush. Take frequent breaks. Hydrate. And cool off if it's hot where you are.
I wouldn't recommend doing the job with a hard deadline (like you need the car in the morning to go to work).
It helps to read through the instructions a few times prior to starting and in between steps. It also helps to have your parts and tools laid out adjacent to your car like a surgeon would have for an operation. Having a sharpie to mark a bolt was helpful as a visual check as well, take the guessing game out of it ("did I tighten that bolt yet?").
As for tightening sequence, I recommend a few mock runs (wrench not actually on each bolt) to ensure you'll have sufficient clearance for the wrench and your arms to do one clean sweep. It also lets you know if you're body is in good position to achieve desired torque / angle.
I DIY'd because I didn't have the budget to pay a shop. Also, there's no guarantee a shop will be diligent to not scratch the crank or forget to tightening properly. I'd trust people like George Hill, Kaiv, both on this forum, as well as reputable shops with experience (EAS in Anaheim, CA, for an example in socal).
End of the day, each has to do what they're comfortable with. For $3,800 as OP was quoted, it might be motivation to DIY.
In the case of a screwup, the difference between paying some and DIY'ing is responsibility. Sometimes it's worth having someone else be liable and warranty their work.
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Originally posted by Will View Post
I did this job using the member created DIYs from the old m3forums (Bimmerfan08 and SYT_Shadow) and things went smoothly - my engine hasn't blown up, yet (knock on wood). I was working in a garage with jack stands and basic hand tools (listed in Bimmerfan08's DIY). The only tool I bought was the 3/8" digital torque-angle from Snap-on, which isn't mandatory, but does make the tightening sequence easier.
Prior to this job, my experience working on cars included the basics: maintenance items such as valve adjustment, fluid changes, cooling system refresh, with changing the vanos or clutch as the largest job. All of the jobs were done guided by the detailed DIYs created by forum members. The vanos, rod bearings, and clutch were the biggest and most daunting jobs, but I think the anticipatory anxiety was worse than the job itself.
It definitely sucked to be working on jack stands, but hey that's what I have at the moment. Just be extra careful to ensure the car is stable on the stands, I also keep an old wheel (wider the better) or two underneath to give myself a better chance of survival in case the car falls.
Of course there are risks to working on your own cars, but be diligent, organized, and don't be in a rush. Take frequent breaks. Hydrate. And cool off if it's hot where you are.
I wouldn't recommend doing the job with a hard deadline (like you need the car in the morning to go to work).
It helps to read through the instructions a few times prior to starting and in between steps. It also helps to have your parts and tools laid out adjacent to your car like a surgeon would have for an operation. Having a sharpie to mark a bolt was helpful as a visual check as well, take the guessing game out of it ("did I tighten that bolt yet?").
As for tightening sequence, I recommend a few mock runs (wrench not actually on each bolt) to ensure you'll have sufficient clearance for the wrench and your arms to do one clean sweep. It also lets you know if you're body is in good position to achieve desired torque / angle.
I DIY'd because I didn't have the budget to pay a shop. Also, there's no guarantee a shop will be diligent to not scratch the crank or forget to tightening properly. I'd trust people like George Hill, Kaiv, both on this forum, as well as reputable shops with experience (EAS in Anaheim, CA, for an example in socal).
End of the day, each has to do what they're comfortable with. For $3,800 as OP was quoted, it might be motivation to DIY.
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Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post
Can have all the DIY's ya want I personally wouldn't recommend it. It's an easy job if you know what you're doing and have the right tools.
Main issue I see is risk of scratching the crank, or botching something around the oil pump or pickup tubes reinstallations. Also the torque sequence is very difficult on your back.
I did this job using the member created DIYs from the old m3forums (Bimmerfan08 and SYT_Shadow) and things went smoothly - my engine hasn't blown up, yet (knock on wood). I was working in a garage with jack stands and basic hand tools (listed in Bimmerfan08's DIY). The only tool I bought was the 3/8" digital torque-angle from Snap-on, which isn't mandatory, but does make the tightening sequence easier.
Prior to this job, my experience working on cars included the basics: maintenance items such as valve adjustment, fluid changes, cooling system refresh, with changing the vanos or clutch as the largest job. All of the jobs were done guided by the detailed DIYs created by forum members. The vanos, rod bearings, and clutch were the biggest and most daunting jobs, but I think the anticipatory anxiety was worse than the job itself.
It definitely sucked to be working on jack stands, but hey that's what I have at the moment. Just be extra careful to ensure the car is stable on the stands, I also keep an old wheel (wider the better) or two underneath to give myself a better chance of survival in case the car falls.
Of course there are risks to working on your own cars, but be diligent, organized, and don't be in a rush. Take frequent breaks. Hydrate. And cool off if it's hot where you are.
I wouldn't recommend doing the job with a hard deadline (like you need the car in the morning to go to work).
It helps to read through the instructions a few times prior to starting and in between steps. It also helps to have your parts and tools laid out adjacent to your car like a surgeon would have for an operation. Having a sharpie to mark a bolt was helpful as a visual check as well, take the guessing game out of it ("did I tighten that bolt yet?").
As for tightening sequence, I recommend a few mock runs (wrench not actually on each bolt) to ensure you'll have sufficient clearance for the wrench and your arms to do one clean sweep. It also lets you know if you're body is in good position to achieve desired torque / angle.
I DIY'd because I didn't have the budget to pay a shop. Also, there's no guarantee a shop will be diligent to not scratch the crank or forget to tightening properly. I'd trust people like George Hill, Kaiv, both on this forum, as well as reputable shops with experience (EAS in Anaheim, CA, for an example in socal).
End of the day, each has to do what they're comfortable with. For $3,800 as OP was quoted, it might be motivation to DIY.
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Originally posted by bimmerfan08 View Post
I wrote up my DIY with the intention of a novice-level DIYer being able to complete the job.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pLm...Z0iCMuZDo/view
Main issue I see is risk of scratching the crank, or botching something around the oil pump or pickup tubes reinstallations. Also the torque sequence is very difficult on your back.
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Originally posted by 9kracing View PostNot sure rod bearing are where I'd begin my journey of working on cars.
Last edited by bimmerfan08; 08-20-2024, 09:09 AM.
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Originally posted by t44tq View PostI had rod bearings done, including all gaskets, parts, hardware and oil needed for the job, plus engine mounts for $1600 including labor. The numbers mentioned here sound nuts to me.
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Originally posted by t44tq View PostI had rod bearings done, including all gaskets, parts, hardware and oil needed for the job, plus engine mounts for $1600 including labor. The numbers mentioned here sound nuts to me.
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I had rod bearings done, including all gaskets, parts, hardware and oil needed for the job, plus engine mounts for $1600 including labor. The numbers mentioned here sound nuts to me.
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