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Better stereo in the M3, my journey

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    Better stereo in the M3, my journey

    Seeing as there's been a couple of threads with regards to upgrading the stereo, I thought I'd put in a few words and pictures of my journey. It's not quite complete just yet, awaiting a custom fit 10" subwoofer box to go in the trunk over the battery box for a stealth fitment.

    Anyways, I quite like listening to music in my car, especially for the drives that are a bit more mundane etc.. My first step was to upgrade those horrible H/K speakers, and I found a used Bavsound set that I fitted. This yielded a very decent upgrade in my opinion, the "premium" H/K sound system was now IMO an ok upgrade if we were 20 years back in time.. Though with my car being a non-nav car, the previous owner had fitted a simpe bluetooth handsfree device that was hacked into the CD-changer input at the back of the head unit. It worked, but I often got a static noise and in general it wasn't a fantastic solution, just bearable..

    So on to the good stuff. Everybody knows the OE H/K amp is no bueno, and I agree, tiny and flimsy, my first upgrade was a Helix V 12, 120watts over 12 channels with multi channel high-level inputs as well as a fancy software program to program it all.
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    Not humongous compared to the H/K, but vastly superior.

    Out with the old and in with the new:
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    I was hoping for an easy install, and even bought a connector from Baris at Carphonics to integrate it easily with the cars original harness, though it turs out his cable only had the wires going from the amp to the speaker, as well as the remote trigger. A nice product though, but I had to extract the high level outputs from the old headunit and unfortunately hack up the harness a bit to fit these to the new amps inputs.
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    Next was fitting the amp, using M4 threaded rod cut to length and utilising 2 of the OE bolt holes and drilling a 3rd new in the chassis for the amp to get affixed at 3 spots, it's solid enough. A solution perhaps not good enough for some, as it pokes out through the carpet, which I just hacked up and covered up later.
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    (Not sure why the pics come out horisontally)
    Some would probably fit the amp somewhere else, but I'm happy with the outcome, the power wire was ran from the battery along the car with of course a solid fuse:
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    That sort of completes the install of the amp. It is quite advanced with it's software but still I was surprised with the first power up test that it sounded pretty shit.. Though that will all be addressed in the software tuning later on.

    Onwards with the headunit. I'm not going to splurge too much here, it's fairly straight forward. I opted for a single DIN Pioneer with a flip out screen since my other DIN space has the A/C controls as I've got some aftermarket VDO instruments above the ashtray. A nice unit, though I wish the screen was actual glas rather than this soft material, but I won't be using it too much, it's nice to have something that resembles modern infotainment now. Though I can see some would be hard core OEM this solution works for me:
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    I also upgraded the speakers in the front door cards to some nice 6.5" woofers from the same amp manufacturers, Helix Compose 3, and added some sound deadening material.
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    But again, i got to say that I get a good feeling about the quality of the Bavsound speakers, I'm keeping their midranges and rear deck woofers etc for now.
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    The final part is the software tuning, you know it's serious when the amp comes with it's own software and USB cable!
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    I bought a UMIK calibration microphone to go with the software to help me set the EQ,
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    Got some weird looks from my neighbours as I was waving this around my head :P
    The software has it's own correlated pink noise that I played through the stereo. The amp knows the frequency response this noise has and can calibrate itself using the microphone easily, the process takes only about 30 seconds. Very impressive.
    Though the whole setup process starts at the input side, making sure the input signal response is flat, before I set up all the channels, setting crossovers and levels.
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    The final step is time alignment to set the distance to the speakers so the bass arrives at my ear at the same time.

    The result is very convincing, though I'm sure I can get this to sound even better if I invest more time in the software. The sound out of the box was underwhelming to say the least, but after running the Auto EQ feature the sound has really come alive, it's so strong and punchy, crips and clear!
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    #2
    Nice write up and Nice Omega Speedmaster Mark II (Racing Dial)

    Comment


      #3
      Damn you beat me to it! Saw the Speedmaster MkII as well!
      06 IB M3 ZCP
      07 Porsche 4.1 Sharky GT3

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by 0-60motorsports View Post
        Nice write up and Nice Omega Speedmaster Mark II (Racing Dial)
        Thanks that's a good spot!

        Regards

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Mr.wReckless View Post
          Thanks that's a good spot!

          Regards
          Also keep in mind the whole system needs to run in a bit. After 3 months of play it should all open up nicely, especially as you play with the software, which you'll need to do as the speakers run in and sound different.

          Have fun!!

          maw

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by maw1124 View Post

            Also keep in mind the whole system needs to run in a bit. After 3 months of play it should all open up nicely, especially as you play with the software, which you'll need to do as the speakers run in and sound different.

            Have fun!!

            maw
            Will do, as of now only the front door mibasses are new, the rest should be well run in, but the sub to come in the trunk will also need to be run in so will probably do another EQ auto calibration after a while, also I will probably discover some preferences sonically that I may play with and change in the software as I go along. I'm surprised how bass heavy the sound needs to be with the engine off as a lot of it disappears on the move. Curious what a 10" woofer in the trunk will do to help that as currently the toy 6x9" hanging from the trunk ceiling won't be adding much to the soundscape. That being said, the sound for now is on a totally different level compared to before!

            Regards

            Comment


              #7
              Just run pink noise and some sine sweeps through the system for a bit which will break in the spiders. Make sure the car is on a battery charger.

              A single 10 isn't going to do very much in an E46 or you'll need to run a ton of power to it. And I've never been a fan of rear deck 6x9s, most 6x9s were not very good.

              If you want a great low end, mount a low FS 6-3/4" mid to the door instead of the door panel. It makes a MASSIVE difference. I could have gone without a sub. Then you just need a slightly larger 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" tweeter in the A-pillar. Those are the sweet spots in an E46. Then you can run a 4 channel amp with an active crossover and a subsonic cut off.

              No sub and sub amp so it keeps the car as sporty as it can be while minimizing weight.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
                Just run pink noise and some sine sweeps through the system for a bit which will break in the speakers.
                I gave him a quick Cardas sweep I use off YouTube. Agreed on everything else.

                maw

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by maw1124 View Post

                  I gave him a quick Cardas sweep I use off YouTube. Agreed on everything else.

                  maw
                  As long as the speaker gets moving with a strong unclipped signal.

                  This makes me miss my audio setup in my 330Ci...

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
                    If you want a great low end, mount a low FS 6-3/4" mid to the door instead of the door panel. It makes a MASSIVE difference.
                    You still need a sub. But cutting the door panels is the only way to go. Mounting to the door cards just gets rattles and not much else.

                    Mike

                    02 M3 Titanium Silver/Black
                    11 Tundra SuperWhite/Black
                    16 X5

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by nuc1 View Post
                      You still need a sub. But cutting the door panels is the only way to go. Mounting to the door cards just gets rattles and not much else.

                      Mike
                      It’s been awhile so not sure what’s available. I used an Oz Audio CS 6.5” mid which could vibrate the mirror a little. Agreed, you’ll still want a sub if you’re going to this level of effort to upgrade.

                      For track days, I would remove the sub box and still get pretty good sound for the drive to and from the track.

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                        #12
                        Final piece of the stereo puzzle, a 10" glassfibre enclosure off of "visual ICE" on eBay:
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                        Specifically made for the E46 coupe, it is a stealth enclosure made to fit above the battery tray:
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                        The fit was super good, supplied with velcro on tape, sufficient enough as I struggled to get it loose once fitted in place. The wires from the amp I had already prewired across the parcel shelf. Fitted a rubber grommet to the battery tray that I also snuck through cables for the battery tender, leaving it permanently connected to the battery terminals and with a quick connect fitting just outside the enclosure.
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                        Fitting a 10" dual coil helix woofer and running 2 channels from the amp to power it.
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                        Very decent fit indeed, and the bottom end received a very decent upgrade from the quite frankly unsuitable twin 6x9 speakers that used to live underneath the parcel shelf.

                        Turning up the volume provides ample power and punch now, without fatigue to the ear, and the amp is powerful enough to run the whole system. The sound is exceptional, but I would also say par for the course considering the quality of speakers and amp/head unit. It's nice to have a bangin' stereo for the car to also enjoy music to the fullest whilst driving my weekend toy.

                        Mission complete :P

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Which SW?

                          maw

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by maw1124 View Post
                            Which SW?

                            maw
                            It's a 10" Helix from AudioTec Fischer. I forget the specific model number, but a dual coil version.

                            Regards

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Mr.wReckless View Post

                              It's a 10" Helix from AudioTec Fischer. I forget the specific model number, but a dual coil version.

                              Regards
                              https://www.ebay.com/itm/152925732544 For the enclosure... .7 cubic feet seems right on the money... I don't love the way it covers up the battery tray but that seems like it can be worked around.

                              https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/h...woofers/ik-s10 For the subwoofer (more than likely)... seems a good unit. I bet it sounds great.

                              Mine is a BSW unit that sits between the rear seats, but I'm considering another woofer... had been thinking about Audio Mobile (have that in another car), but will look at this one too.

                              Cheers,

                              maw

                              Comment

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