Our Key Fob 66126955748 is now NLA (or backordered) and a friend has no keys

[oceansize]

A friend of my wife's has a regular e46.

1. She has zero functioning keys (she has only ever had one key).
2. Car will not turn over (nothing happens, she says). If EWS and the key simply needed a sync operation via INPA then the starter would spin, would it not?
3. Key fob is original and will not unlock the doors. I'm going to have her ask the shop to do the key on/off five times and then while holding unlock press lock three times.
4. I don't have access to the car. The car is currently at a shop who is not a, repeat is not, a BMW specialist. Not even close.
5. As mentioned 66126955748 has gone NLA.

What are her options? Is she going to have to tow to a specialist who can remove EWS from the car and get it on a bench to program an ebay key with an AK90?

If so does someone have a link to a good key reseller?

Anyone ever use these guys?

https://ecumaverick.com/products/bmw-key-cutting-service-by-photo-fob-w-chip-e46-e60-e39-remote-323-325-328-330-m3-i-xi-525i-528i-530i

[Slideways]

Code out the EWS on the DME would probably be the easiest test.

[oceansize]

Code out the EWS on the DME would probably be the easiest test.

Hmmm.. I think the EcuWorx tool can do that if I remember correctly and if memory serves they will need a splice together the two black wires on the connector, correct?

[Slideways]

Hmmm.. I think the EcuWorx tool can do that if I remember correctly and if memory serves they will need a splice together the two black wires on the connector, correct?

Wiring shouldn't need splicing.

[sapote]

1. Car will not turn over (nothing happens, she says). If EWS and the key simply needed a sync operation via INPA then the starter would spin, would it not?

If EWS and key out of sync, then no crank

To do: insert key in ignition, open driver door, is it beeping? if not, turn key to ACC, is it beeping? If no then they are out of sync.

Use INPA to read ews status and report back.

You can buy AK90 programmer tool on Amazon and use it to read the data from the removed ews, then note down the status of all 10 keys from the data (analyze screen), then use the saved data to write to the new transponder chip (bought from ebay) and align it to one of the used key. Don't write the chip to a new unused key as this is more complex process. Tape the new programmed chip to the old key and try. If not work, then cut open the stock key, remove the stock transponder chip, tape new chip to key and try again.

[oceansize]

Wiring shouldn't need splicing.

Ok, and no ecuworx as I forgot that tool is strictly M3

[Cubieman]

Ok, and no ecuworx as I forgot that tool is strictly M3

You can still do and EWS delete using Tunerpro and firmware available from github. Kind of a pain in the ass as the MS42/3 DME's usually require being physically opened up to short out a pin and being bench flashed.

I have done a number of EWS deletes on non-M e46's but I'll admit it took me some time to figure out how to make a benchflash harness, find the flashing programs etc.

That said all the info is pretty much in one spot on, if you or your friend are interested:

https://www.ms4x.net/index.php?title=Main_Page

https://www.ms4x.net/index.php?title=MS4x_Flasher

[George Hill]

IF the shop doesn't know BMWs they could easily make this harder for the next shop to diagnose if they can't figure it out.

I'm assuming they can't read the BMW fault codes?

If not, the easiest first step is to jump the EWS module:

• Access the module under the dash by removing the lower trim, reach up and its the white box bolted high to the firewall.
• Remove the connector and there will be two big terminals on the end of the connector.
• Trim a 30A fuse to fit in that location and insert the fuse (leaving the connector unplugged from the EWS module)
• Attempt to start the car, does the engine crank? If so it is something related to the Key/EWS
• If not, continue traditional troubleshooting steps by checking voltage, etc.

[oceansize]

IF the shop doesn't know BMWs they could easily make this harder for the next shop to diagnose if they can't figure it out.

I'm assuming they can't read the BMW fault codes?

If not, the easiest first step is to jump the EWS module:

• Access the module under the dash by removing the lower trim, reach up and its the white box bolted high to the firewall.
• Remove the connector and there will be two big terminals on the end of the connector.
• Trim a 30A fuse to fit in that location and insert the fuse (leaving the connector unplugged from the EWS module)
• Attempt to start the car, does the engine crank? If so it is something related to the Key/EWS
• If not, continue traditional troubleshooting steps by checking voltage, etc.

Thanks George. They can't read the codes. Being at this shop, which is clueless on BMWs (I'm not poking at them, can't be good at everything) has made this difficult. I wish she had just towed it to me first, but she doesn't have a lot of money and that is also playing a role. I going to talk to the guys down at the shop and see if they will let me bring my laptop in and hook up INPA. If they aren't agreeable then I'll simply pass on what everyone has noted and see what happens.

Appreciate sapote and Cubieman Slideways as well.

[George Hill]

They can't read the codes. Being at this shop, which is clueless on BMWs (I'm not poking at them, can't be good at everything) has made this difficult.

With that said, have them open up the e-box and check voltage at the black 8-pin rectangle connector, there will be a thick black wire coming through it, that is the starter signal wire from the EWS to the starter. They can back probe it and if there is 12v when attempting to crank that should tell you what you need to know WITHOUT disturbing anything in the system and/or creating new problems.

[PetrolM3]

Some good advice in here - hoping you get this sorted out quick!

Question - what exactly do you mean by: Our Key Fob 66126955748 is now NLA (or backordered)

Does this mean none of us can order new keys from BMW any longer? ZCP wheels are one thing but keys being NLA? That's kinda scary...

[George Hill]

Some good advice in here - hoping you get this sorted out quick!

Question - what exactly do you mean by: Our Key Fob 66126955748 is now NLA (or backordered)

Does this mean none of us can order new keys from BMW any longer?

I asked my parts guy and he said he has (2) clients waiting on keys presently and had already reached out to BMW about it. It sounds like there was an issue with keys not being cut right and I'm not sure how that affects this, but maybe the material was wrong or something like that. BMW has more keys on order but there is not ETA. So presently no one can order a master key, but they plan to make more. This isn't an NLA situation but a B/O problem.

With that said you can still order a key, it just won't be a master key at present.

[PetrolM3]

I asked my parts guy and he said he has (2) clients waiting on keys presently and had already reached out to BMW about it. It sounds like there was an issue with keys not being cut right and I'm not sure how that affects this, but maybe the material was wrong or something like that. BMW has more keys on order but there is not ETA. So presently no one can order a master key, but they plan to make more. This isn't an NLA situation but a B/O problem.

With that said you can still order a key, it just won't be a master key at present.

That's good news, thanks for sharing! My car came with only one key so I got another master key from BMW a few years back. The thought of this being NLA is definitely scary - feels like it's too soon for such a critical item. Glad to hear it's just a temporary issue.

Cheers

[01SG]

I must have lucked out. I just got a new key about six months ago.

All the talk about major things being no longer available-permanently-is overblown to me. They go in and out of production. You couldn't get the steering shaft for the e36 (or was it the e46?), for several years I believe, but they eventually made another batch. I think we've still got some time here.

[bmwfnatic]

Some good troubleshooting steps from George Hill here.

I would like to say, have they checked the battery… and the starter…

You don’t have to fiddle with the DME, car will even crank without a DME persent at all, so doing an “EWS delete” on that side yields exactly for a no crank.

Also not to throw mud at this shop, but I have heard so many stories that basically I assume “the other shop” isn’t able to do anything except swap parts, which often leads nowhere.