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SMG to 6MT Conversion

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  • FoxFivePointOh
    replied
    Originally posted by sapote View Post
    So you installed the bell housing from another tranny? I had suggested before that doing this way is risky and might end up with a crushed and noisy input shaft bearing. Modify the original bell housing is the way to go.
    Yep, it's from a car that came from the factory as a manual. Makes sense now. Wish I'd thought of it before, but it seemed like others have had success doing it this way.

    Originally posted by sapote View Post
    and even if you can replace with new bearing, it must be measured to have the proper thickness bearing shim washer or it will be noisy again.
    How is this measured and is there a spec for it? It hasn't been run long so I might give it a try if I can track down shims.

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  • sapote
    replied
    Originally posted by FoxFivePointOh View Post
    I tracked down a manual bellhousing, but I traded my SMG one for it.
    ... and I traded... instead of ...but I traded ...?

    So you installed the bell housing from another tranny? I had suggested before that doing this way is risky and might end up with a crushed and noisy input shaft bearing. Modify the original bell housing is the way to go.

    and even if you can replace with new bearing, it must be measured to have the proper thickness bearing shim washer or it will be noisy again.
    Last edited by sapote; 07-20-2020, 11:49 AM.

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  • FoxFivePointOh
    replied
    Has anyone ever had a whirring sound after conversion? I tracked down a manual bellhousing, but I traded my SMG one for it.

    The noise sounds a lot like a bad input shaft bearing. It hums at idle and goes away once the clutch is disengaged. When driving, it makes a number of different noises that vary with RPM. Everything besides the flywheel is new OEM. Flywheel is original and has just under 100k.

    Is there any way the bellhousing could be misaligned? Also, I see it was asked earlier with no response, but has anyone ever found a way to replace the input shaft bearings in these, or should I start tracking down another SMG transmission to have machined?

    Leave a comment:


  • 0-60motorsports
    replied
    MartynHassanEido

    Thanks for your suggestions guys, it was weird that it was coding. Martyn did an amazing job and jumped on and coded the car while HTE did his awesome tune and it started straight up. Thanks guys.

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  • nervous24
    replied
    Originally posted by Steve View Post

    Is it completely dead like you're trying to start the car without pressing the clutch? If so, I'd start by investigating the wiring around the pedals. I can't think of anything else that would cause this, other than the starter itself not receiving power.
    My thinking as well.

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  • sina
    replied
    Originally posted by 0-60motorsports View Post
    Guys, need some help. Just did this for a friend and I am getting a no crank no start situation. Any tips? I went over the DIY and it seems I have done everything accordingly.
    I had an issue like this, and it was just one of the EWS pins not being fully seated.

    Leave a comment:


  • Steve
    replied
    Originally posted by 0-60motorsports View Post
    Guys, need some help. Just did this for a friend and I am getting a no crank no start situation. Any tips? I went over the DIY and it seems I have done everything accordingly.
    Is it completely dead like you're trying to start the car without pressing the clutch? If so, I'd start by investigating the wiring around the pedals. I can't think of anything else that would cause this, other than the starter itself not receiving power.

    Leave a comment:


  • 0-60motorsports
    replied
    Guys, need some help. Just did this for a friend and I am getting a no crank no start situation. Any tips? I went over the DIY and it seems I have done everything accordingly.

    Leave a comment:


  • nervous24
    replied
    Originally posted by Ob917 View Post
    The hole saw method is really easy. That's what I did, a little paint on the edge and it looks factory.
    +1 for the hole saw. Took 5-10 seconds MAX! It’s been a while but I’m pretty sure it was 3.25”. I also picked up the quick change arbor with pilot bit. Perhaps a little extra but it didn’t hurt!

    Leave a comment:


  • Steve
    replied
    Originally posted by Ob917 View Post
    The hole saw method is really easy. That's what I did, a little paint on the edge and it looks factory.
    Great, I think that's the method I'm going to go with, now just need to pick up the right saw and get to drilling!

    Leave a comment:


  • nervous24
    replied
    Originally posted by Geoff.T View Post
    Any of you guys use a self centering shifter rather than modifying the transmission? If so, would you go this route again? Any difficulty finding gears? Which shifter did you go with?
    I was the first to successfully do a “no-drop” swap. I opted for a CAE (it’s glorious). All the functions of machining a bellhousing are part of the shifters design so I went for it. I would definitely do it again and have helped a few others accomplish their swaps.

    The one crux of this method is getting the bolt that holds the actuator off. #6 in this diagram

    https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=23_0898

    Other than that it is quite easy and pretty quick. Depending on your luck it can easily be done in a day.

    No issue finding gears either. I found it very easy to setup the shift gate and haven’t had to make any adjustments in the 2.5 years since I swapped.

    I should add that I personally wouldn’t do this with a shifter that lacked the left/right stops & reverse lockout. Without the edges it can be quite vague finding your gates. The functionality and peace of mind the lockout offers is worth it.
    Last edited by nervous24; 06-12-2020, 11:12 AM.

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  • ATB88
    replied
    I did the swap two years ago and have been putting off fixing the one thing I somehow messed up. I had a thread about this on the old m3f where I got some good advice, but I forgot what it was and never got around to doing it and now that thread's gone. I need some advice for the best way to fix this:

    I went the route of tapping the threads at the back of the transmission to fit the gear position sensor. I regret doing it because it's totally unnecessary, but here we are.

    Unfortunately, I've had a leak coming from the GPS ever since the swap. Not a big one, I check the trans fluid level once every few of months and I've only had to top it up once in two years. When originally installing, I tightened the GPS into the threads pretty good, so, it's not that it's loose or anything.

    1. Why would it be leaking, and what's the best way to fix it? Would a crush washer do the trick? Teflon tape on the threads? I hope to only have to go in there once.

    2. Anyone ever had success accessing the 6MT GPS without having to drop the trans? It's in a very tight spot. Would hate to get in there ready to fix it and find that I have to drop the whole damn trans again.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ob917
    replied
    Originally posted by Steve View Post
    Any pros or cons to removing the entire metal plate under the shifter vs using a hole saw to cut through the plate? I've seen it done both ways, but trying to figure out which method to go with.
    The hole saw method is really easy. That's what I did, a little paint on the edge and it looks factory.

    Leave a comment:


  • Steve
    replied
    Any pros or cons to removing the entire metal plate under the shifter vs using a hole saw to cut through the plate? I've seen it done both ways, but trying to figure out which method to go with.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gt4
    replied
    Are those the correct measurements for the SMG bellhousing machining? If not, can someone put the right one here.

    I am located in Montreal, Canada and I have 3 SMG transmissions to do and it makes no sense to ship those bellhousings to USA right now as there are huge delays in delivery with most shippers.

    Click image for larger version

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