Originally posted by 0-60motorsports
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SMG to 6MT Conversion
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Hey everyone, anyone have a solution or alternative to the clutch switch 61319122700?
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For those of you who have had your SMG converted to manual (particularly at 120k+ miles), how do the shifts and syncos feel, mainly 2nd, 3rd and 4th?
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the detents are only there to keep the shifter centered. The springs are there to differentiate Reverse (heavy spring) with 5/6 (light spring). They don't "hold" the gear in. If your gear is popping out, that might be a syncro issue.
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Hey guys I have an issue with my manual swap. When going into reverse it would pop out. But going to first then reverse it will go in sometimes.
I read it could be a compression spring or maybe the diff plugs too tight against the detent springs? Any help would be appreciated.
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I wanted to add this for those who installed a GPS and having difficulty with cruise control. I found a video that explains it very well. I’m also providing instructions here. I know you don’t need the GPS, but if you installed one here’s how to get it working.
1. Remove SMG computer module and make sure the battery is disconnected.
2. Disconnect the temp sensor locatated toward the front bottom of the transmission. This will become the Gear Position Switch connector. You will not be able to connect it without trimming the guide off of the GPS. I used a dremel tool for this.
3. Connect a jumper wire between the two terminals on the temp sensor wire. We will use this to help identify the correct wires in the DME area.
4. locate the X53004 SMG connector. It's the second connector when looking at the SMG moudle from the front. Now locate Pin pin 13 on X53004 and remove it from the connector. Now locate pin 31 on X53004 this is going to be connected to a number of brown wires. clip off the yellow connector joining the brown wires togeather.
5 Now you will need a multimeter or something that will help identify continuity between pin 13 and the brown wires. Set your meter to an audiable tone so you can hear when you have found the correct brown wire. Connect one end of the meter to the pin 13 wire. Now test each brown wire for continuity. Once found, you have idenified the two wires going to the temp sensor. Pin 13 and one of the brown wires.
5. Remove the jumper wire on the temp sensor and connect it to the GPS.
6. Connect pin 13 the DME X60002 pin 20. Pin 20 is empty.
7. Connect the brown wire to pin 2 on the clutch switch.
These changes are NOT needed to be made to the DME .bin file Other DME changes are needed. I won’t go into details on coding, other threads cove this subject very well.DME Variant Parameter Location Default Modified MSS54 K_SKRAFTS_CONTROL 0x4028 0x01 0x02 MSS54HP K_SKRAFTS_CONTROL 0x802A 0x01 0x02 MSS54 K_S_GANG_LL_ED 0x35DA 0x0032 0xFFFF MSS54HP K_S_GANG_LL_ED 0x5952 0x0032 0xFFFF MSS54 K_MD_MIN_VERH_KRAFTS 0x67E0 0x80 0xA0 MSS54HP K_MD_MIN_VERH_KRAFTS 0x88A2 0x80 0xA0
Link to video:
This worked well on my 2002 M3.
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Ive always wondered how many guys actually experience this issue when using a donor BH... I did the BH conversion in my garage just to challenge myself and done 5 more for others since.... but Ive never heard of anyone actually having issues with slapping on a donor converted BH.
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Originally posted by LuLu View Post
1. I have a 04 M3 manual, with 4th gear syncro on it's way out I think. When engaging gear you feel a click and when clutch is released it grinds.
2. Well I have bought a smg gearbox so I am sure synchros are good, and wanted to swap bell housing. Taking the manual one and putting it on the smg one. Should I be careful?
2. Don't swap the bell housing from the manual to the SMG to avoid the big headache of damaging input shaft bearing and the noise, and cannot buy the replacement bearing. Machine the bell housing is the proper way to do. If you still want to swap the bell housing, then measure the bearing clearance carefully and use correct shim to have the proper bearing preload. Don't crush the balls.
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Originally posted by sapote View PostDon’t use a donor bell housing - see my post about the damage it can cause. Convert your BH to match.
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Originally posted by S3diment View PostJust received this one in the mail from FCP:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...le-61319122700
The PN on the switch is 61-31.9122700.9
However the switch itself is black. Any thoughts? Will try it regardless.
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I have one of these "new" 700 switches as well, pn# on it is 61-31.9122700.9 and dated 070422, it is black in color.
I have not had a chance to test it in a car yet, but looks favorable.
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Just received this one in the mail from FCP:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...le-61319122700
The PN on the switch is 61-31.9122700.9
However the switch itself is black. Any thoughts? Will try it regardless.Last edited by S3diment; 08-02-2022, 08:10 AM.
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Originally posted by lemoose View Post
when i came across this possible solution, i called the shop to see if they used the gps but no one remembered 😒 so i had to play around with it till it was right. My guess is that the shop didnt use the gps and therefore had to disable it in the dme. So if you kept the gps i would guess that you dont need to change anything.
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Originally posted by tlow98 View Post
if you are not using a GPS sensor I’m assuming this applies, as well? As in, something will need to be done?
is there a best practice that gets you to the right answer or is a guess and check experiment?
many thanks!
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Originally posted by lemoose View PostI was haunted by the car dying when i came to a stop issue after my swap- it is indeed related to your clutch switch- however its a programming issue. You need to reconfigure your dme according to your clutch switch/gps configuration. The ecuworx mss54 tool does this out of the box now. You could also do it yourself though with a hex editor- but the location for this string varies based on a myriad of things like your dmes hardware, software, and firmware versions if i recall correctly
is there a best practice that gets you to the right answer or is a guess and check experiment?
many thanks!
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