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SMG to 6MT Conversion

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  • PipeUy
    replied
    Originally posted by 0-60motorsports View Post
    Hey everyone, anyone have a solution or alternative to the clutch switch 61319122700?​
    61319122701 euro spec switch works just fine, used that one on my car.

    Leave a comment:


  • 0-60motorsports
    replied
    Hey everyone, anyone have a solution or alternative to the clutch switch 61319122700?​

    Leave a comment:


  • Slideways
    replied
    For those of you who have had your SMG converted to manual (particularly at 120k+ miles), how do the shifts and syncos feel, mainly 2nd, 3rd and 4th?

    Leave a comment:


  • pawelgawel
    replied
    the detents are only there to keep the shifter centered. The springs are there to differentiate Reverse (heavy spring) with 5/6 (light spring). They don't "hold" the gear in. If your gear is popping out, that might be a syncro issue.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rod.bearings
    replied
    Hey guys I have an issue with my manual swap. When going into reverse it would pop out. But going to first then reverse it will go in sometimes.

    I read it could be a compression spring or maybe the diff plugs too tight against the detent springs? Any help would be appreciated.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rickg58654
    replied
    I wanted to add this for those who installed a GPS and having difficulty with cruise control. I found a video that explains it very well. I’m also providing instructions here. I know you don’t need the GPS, but if you installed one here’s how to get it working.


    1. Remove SMG computer module and make sure the battery is disconnected.
    2. Disconnect the temp sensor locatated toward the front bottom of the transmission. This will become the Gear Position Switch connector. You will not be able to connect it without trimming the guide off of the GPS. I used a dremel tool for this.

    3. Connect a jumper wire between the two terminals on the temp sensor wire. We will use this to help identify the correct wires in the DME area.

    4. locate the X53004 SMG connector. It's the second connector when looking at the SMG moudle from the front. Now locate Pin pin 13 on X53004 and remove it from the connector. Now locate pin 31 on X53004 this is going to be connected to a number of brown wires. clip off the yellow connector joining the brown wires togeather.

    5 Now you will need a multimeter or something that will help identify continuity between pin 13 and the brown wires. Set your meter to an audiable tone so you can hear when you have found the correct brown wire. Connect one end of the meter to the pin 13 wire. Now test each brown wire for continuity. Once found, you have idenified the two wires going to the temp sensor. Pin 13 and one of the brown wires.

    5. Remove the jumper wire on the temp sensor and connect it to the GPS.
    6. Connect pin 13 the DME X60002 pin 20. Pin 20 is empty.
    7. Connect the brown wire to pin 2 on the clutch switch​.

    These changes are NOT needed to be made to the DME .bin file Other DME changes are needed. I won’t go into details on coding, other threads cove this subject very well.
    DME Variant​ Parameter​ Location​ Default​ Modified​
    MSS54​ K_SKRAFTS_CONTROL​ 0x4028​ 0x01​ 0x02​
    MSS54HP​ K_SKRAFTS_CONTROL​ 0x802A​ 0x01​ 0x02​
    MSS54​ K_S_GANG_LL_ED​ 0x35DA​ 0x0032​ 0xFFFF​
    MSS54HP​ K_S_GANG_LL_ED​ 0x5952​ 0x0032​ 0xFFFF​
    MSS54​ K_MD_MIN_VERH_KRAFTS​ 0x67E0​ 0x80​ 0xA0​
    MSS54HP​ K_MD_MIN_VERH_KRAFTS​ 0x88A2​ 0x80​ 0xA0​

    Link to video:


    This worked well on my 2002 M3.

    Leave a comment:


  • pawelgawel
    replied
    Ive always wondered how many guys actually experience this issue when using a donor BH... I did the BH conversion in my garage just to challenge myself and done 5 more for others since.... but Ive never heard of anyone actually having issues with slapping on a donor converted BH.

    Leave a comment:


  • sapote
    replied
    Originally posted by LuLu View Post

    1. I have a 04 M3 manual, with 4th gear syncro on it's way out I think. When engaging gear you feel a click and when clutch is released it grinds.
    2. Well I have bought a smg gearbox so I am sure synchros are good, and wanted to swap bell housing. Taking the manual one and putting it on the smg one. Should I be careful?
    1. It seem the slider teeth, not the synchro, that has worn teeth and couldn't engage to the synchro deep enough, and it popped back out under load (clutch disk engaged). Someone missed a shift at high rpm to cause this.
    2. Don't swap the bell housing from the manual to the SMG to avoid the big headache of damaging input shaft bearing and the noise, and cannot buy the replacement bearing. Machine the bell housing is the proper way to do. If you still want to swap the bell housing, then measure the bearing clearance carefully and use correct shim to have the proper bearing preload. Don't crush the balls.

    Leave a comment:


  • LuLu
    replied
    Originally posted by sapote View Post
    Don’t use a donor bell housing - see my post about the damage it can cause. Convert your BH to match.
    Old thread, having struggle to find the old post. In short why shouldn't you use another bell housing. I'll explain my situation I have a 04 M3 manual, with 4th gear syncro on it's way out I think. When engaging gear you feel a click and when clutch is released it grinds. Well I have bought a smg gearbox so I am sure synchros are good, and wanted to swap bell housing. Taking the manual one and putting it on the smg one. Should I be careful?

    Leave a comment:


  • S3diment
    replied
    Originally posted by S3diment View Post
    Just received this one in the mail from FCP:

    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...le-61319122700

    The PN on the switch is 61-31.9122700.9

    However the switch itself is black. Any thoughts? Will try it regardless.
    Just tried the 700 black switch. Car shifts much better than before. No RPM dips. However CC does not work. Will be investigating further with the computer.

    Leave a comment:


  • George Hill
    replied
    I have one of these "new" 700 switches as well, pn# on it is 61-31.9122700.9 and dated 070422, it is black in color.

    I have not had a chance to test it in a car yet, but looks favorable.

    Leave a comment:


  • S3diment
    replied
    Just received this one in the mail from FCP:

    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...le-61319122700

    The PN on the switch is 61-31.9122700.9

    However the switch itself is black. Any thoughts? Will try it regardless.
    Last edited by S3diment; 08-02-2022, 08:10 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • sapote
    replied
    Originally posted by lemoose View Post

    when i came across this possible solution, i called the shop to see if they used the gps but no one remembered 😒 so i had to play around with it till it was right. My guess is that the shop didnt use the gps and therefore had to disable it in the dme. So if you kept the gps i would guess that you dont need to change anything.
    The GPS sensor and the clutch switch are connected in series, and so the DME doesn't know which one opens the circuit (GPS is open circuit when in Neutral, clutch switch is open when pedal pressed down, so either one open will let the EWS to crank the starter).

    Leave a comment:


  • lemoose
    replied
    Originally posted by tlow98 View Post

    if you are not using a GPS sensor I’m assuming this applies, as well? As in, something will need to be done?

    is there a best practice that gets you to the right answer or is a guess and check experiment?

    many thanks!
    when i came across this possible solution, i called the shop to see if they used the gps but no one remembered 😒 so i had to play around with it till it was right. My guess is that the shop didnt use the gps and therefore had to disable it in the dme. So if you kept the gps i would guess that you dont need to change anything.

    Leave a comment:


  • tlow98
    replied
    Originally posted by lemoose View Post
    I was haunted by the car dying when i came to a stop issue after my swap- it is indeed related to your clutch switch- however its a programming issue. You need to reconfigure your dme according to your clutch switch/gps configuration. The ecuworx mss54 tool does this out of the box now. You could also do it yourself though with a hex editor- but the location for this string varies based on a myriad of things like your dmes hardware, software, and firmware versions if i recall correctly
    if you are not using a GPS sensor I’m assuming this applies, as well? As in, something will need to be done?

    is there a best practice that gets you to the right answer or is a guess and check experiment?

    many thanks!

    Leave a comment:

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