SMG to 6MT Conversion

[aa240sx]

Hey fellas - Super glad to see the thread on how to do a manual swap resurrected. As you can see, I'm not OUT...

When I first made that comment over a year ago I was super frustrated that the old forum disappeared, but I'm glad the community seems to be here now. Truthfully, I've rocked my SMG to 6MT swap now for over 3 years and it's great because I did the whole job 100% in my garage, including the coding (which I sent money to someone in the UK, downloaded the file, and used that to code the swap...) and managed to avoid the bell housing nonsense by using the RTD shifter (detents built in with reverse lockout). Saved hundreds and time just on these two steps alone.

Anyway, after three years of driving my manual swap, I do still get the stalling issue. Generally, it happens on cold start and seems to happen when the car goes down my somewhat steep driveway (not sure if it's an angle thing). Anyway, only does it once but I still would like to figure out why it stalls at startup, but is fine the rest of the day. And no, I don't any CEL, ABS or other lights on in my dash. I rank my swap right up there with swaps done my pro shops like Lang, etc., save for this odd stalling issue oh and the fact that I don't have cruise control, so may be not quite like a Lang job, but close.

Any solutions in 2021?

[SQ13]

So the guy who did my swap says he coded and wired the car as a Z4M. No GPS. The car has the “switch chain, frictional connection” code, and it’s causing my car to drop revs at idle. If I depress the clutch when the RPMs drop, it’ll rise to around 1200 RPM. ZCP so no cruise control to confirm that wiring and coding were done correctly. The clutch switch is brown, which I read is the correct part. The guy moved to a different city so I want to try to fix it myself, but idk where to begin. Anyone able to help?

[Pklauser]

Posting another success buying the 701 part from getbmwparts.com. Disabled the clutch interlock in EWS using BMWScanner and all is right with the world.

[jb74]

At this location, the 6mt "device" has 2 functions: works as detent on the main shift rod, and provide the electronic sensing signal to identify the status of either in neutral (0) or engaged gear, which the DME needs to control the max rpm and other features (cruise). I'm not 100% but it's my guess. In contrast, the SMG "device" only works as a detent for the main shift rod, as the encoders on the tail actuator have the status of in neutral or which gear engaged.

You don't need to install the GPS sensor for your converted 6mt, but it's good to replace the spring and roller pin under the plug as they are worn, to no worry if it jammed down in the future.

Thank you again.

Just an update for whoever. I was able to get the clutch switch 701 part here just yesterday from getbmwparts.com, so that might be an option for some.

[sapote]

Can I just leave it be and not mess with removing the sealing plug and replacing with the manual part number if I am not installing the gear position sensor?

At this location, the 6mt "device" has 2 functions: works as detent on the main shift rod, and provide the electronic sensing signal to identify the status of either in neutral (0) or engaged gear, which the DME needs to control the max rpm and other features (cruise). I'm not 100% but it's my guess. In contrast, the SMG "device" only works as a detent for the main shift rod, as the encoders on the tail actuator have the status of in neutral or which gear engaged.

You don't need to install the GPS sensor for your converted 6mt, but it's good to replace the spring and roller pin under the plug as they are worn, to no worry if it jammed down in the future.

[jb74]

1. For Google map to work you need GPS, otherwise it's not needed. "the 2 for the main detents": these are the front lower left for the shift gates, and there are 3 more near upper rear right for R, 1/2nd, and 3/4, and 5/6 on the left side. There are a roller pin and spring under the so-called GPS even there is no GPS sensor (this the the internal main shift rod detent).

Thanks for the response and the info on what each spring affects. I guess questions breed questions, so it appears the spring under the sealing plug on the SMG transmission, and the spring that goes under the gear position sensor on the manual transmission are different part numbers. Is this just to be compatible with the gear position sensor? Can I just leave it be and not mess with removing the sealing plug and replacing with the manual part number if I am not installing the gear position sensor?

[sapote]

Hello All, getting ready to convert 2 cars. I am pretty far along on one and had some questions:

1) If I am not installing the GPS, what spring do I still need to renew (not counting the 2 for the main detents). Do I need to also change the one under the seal where the GPS would have gone (#9 part number ending in 405, or just the one under the bolt on the side of the tranny (#15 part number ending in 337)?

2) For cruise control it seems like with the right coding I don't need the GPS at all correct? as long as the car is coded correctly to bypass? I am using the ECUWorx tool for that portion of the coding.

3) Going to use the old style clutch switch. Can wire signal wire right to DME pin 20 and then the other signal wire to EWS Pin 8 and all should be good on the wiring correct? even with cruise control?

appreciate any help. Thanks!

1. For Google map to work you need GPS, otherwise it's not needed. "the 2 for the main detents": these are the front lower left for the shift gates, and there are 3 more near upper rear right for R, 1/2nd, and 3/4, and 5/6 on the left side. There are a roller pin and spring under the so-called GPS even there is no GPS sensor (this the the internal main shift rod detent).

[jb74]

Hello All, getting ready to convert 2 cars. I am pretty far along on one and had some questions:

1) If I am not installing the GPS, what spring do I still need to renew (not counting the 2 for the main detents). Do I need to also change the one under the seal where the GPS would have gone (#9 part number ending in 405, or just the one under the bolt on the side of the tranny (#15 part number ending in 337)?

2) For cruise control it seems like with the right coding I don't need the GPS at all correct? as long as the car is coded correctly to bypass? I am using the ECUWorx tool for that portion of the coding.

3) Going to use the old style clutch switch. Can wire signal wire right to DME pin 20 and then the other signal wire to EWS Pin 8 and all should be good on the wiring correct? even with cruise control?

appreciate any help. Thanks!

[sapote]

Hey guys, I just completed this swap, but I’m getting a grinding noise when I try to engage any gear (and I cannot get Into the gear)

my guess is the clutch isn’t fully disengaging? I’m putting in a new CMC and rebleeding the clutch (possible there was air in the system)

any thoughts?

*edit* I can go into second gear no problem

With engine off, can you shift into any gears? If not then the shift rod is mis-aligned. If yes then it seems clutch is not completely disengaged (test this by let it roll down a slope in gear when step on the clutch).

[Hallerhan]

Hey guys, I just completed this swap, but I’m getting a grinding noise when I try to engage any gear (and I cannot get Into the gear)

my guess is the clutch isn’t fully disengaging? I’m putting in a new CMC and rebleeding the clutch (possible there was air in the system)

any thoughts?

*edit* I can go into second gear no problem

[SandeepM3]

If anyone else has trouble finding the part number for the PIN into the EWS or the pin for the back of the instrument cluster it is 61-13-0-005-197. Thanks to Martyn for that and super quickly doing my coding remotely. No GPS or dme wire and everything works perfectly with reverse lights and mirror tilt on an 2004!

[SandeepM3]

Last question I swear!

What is the pin connector size you use for the wire you insert into the EWS? Where do you guys buy that from?

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...17#61131393704

is that the right one?

Edit: Nope 61-13-1-393-704 keeps getting stuck in it.

Edit2: screw it lets just code out EWS.

[SandeepM3]

Just like other connections, there is a little tab on the side you press and the internal cassette slides out.

Thanks. I didn't realize it slides perpendicular to the wire direction. Whole time I was trying to get it the same way the wires go.

[Mr.wReckless]

If someone want the -700 brown Clutch switch, I have a new one here laying around.
If these are still not available, i can send it international (I’m in Germany) otherwise I will give I back to the dealer.

Doing a manual conversion next month and need it. I'll take it off your hands if it's available. I've sent you a PM.

Regards

[pawelgawel]

Anyone have any tips to taking apart the EWS connector? Knowing me Im going to break the plastic trying tonfigure it out.

Just like other connections, there is a little tab on the side you press and the internal cassette slides out.