Originally posted by Martyn
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Originally posted by Martyn View Post
You still need to recode the rest of the vehicle with NCS.
Do you offer the whole recoding service as a "turn key" service?
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Neverminded, I just went on your site and see that you do offer this. I will contact you shortly.Last edited by gheorghe; 02-02-2021, 08:01 PM.
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Originally posted by gheorghe View PostQuestion on software and coding once the mechanical swap is done.
Is it really as simple as getting the ECUworks MSS5x Binary Modiffication tool, loading your original file, selecting "Transmission Swap-Manual" and reloading the file to the car?
Or is there another file that needs to be be loaded?
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Question on software and coding once the mechanical swap is done.
Is it really as simple as getting the ECUworks MSS5x Binary Modiffication tool, loading your original file, selecting "Transmission Swap-Manual" and reloading the file to the car?
Or is there another file that needs to be be loaded?Last edited by gheorghe; 02-02-2021, 07:22 PM.
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Originally posted by Zack View Post
Irrelevant wiring was bundled up for a while, eventually to be removed entirely. I can't recall exactly what the GPS is connected to. I will be under there again in the near future, I will have to look again.
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Originally posted by 2knob View Post
It's been pointed out that the "manual" transmission doesn't have any of the following labeled sensors, so I assume the backup light switch connector gets moved to the gear identification switch.
What do most people do with all the irrelevant wiring (bundle it up out of the way, or pull it out)?
Thanks...
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Originally posted by 2knob View PostI'm in the middle of my conversion and have installed the "Gear Identification Switch". I've seen people ask "how do we connect it" but have yet to see an answer.
The OP wrote "Once the transmission is installed in the car, a now unused SMG connector will hook up to this sensor. In order to mate these connectors, the center plastic tab on the outside of the gear recognition sensor will need to be sliced off with a razor. Again, looking at the connectors side by side, it will be very obvious what needs to be cut off in order for them to work together.", but the available connectors are obviously incompatible. Do we need to pull out a couple wires for the connection and which are they?
Help would be appreciated, else I might have to start thinking...
What do most people do with all the irrelevant wiring (bundle it up out of the way, or pull it out)?
Thanks...
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Originally posted by gheorghe View Post
Thank you for pointing that out, I was using Chrome lol.
Any pointers for the swap since you just went though it lol?
I am about to tackle it myself just need the parts to start showing up.
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I'm in the middle of my conversion and have installed the "Gear Identification Switch". I've seen people ask "how do we connect it" but have yet to see an answer.
The OP wrote "Once the transmission is installed in the car, a now unused SMG connector will hook up to this sensor. In order to mate these connectors, the center plastic tab on the outside of the gear recognition sensor will need to be sliced off with a razor. Again, looking at the connectors side by side, it will be very obvious what needs to be cut off in order for them to work together.", but the available connectors are obviously incompatible. Do we need to pull out a couple wires for the connection and which are they?
Help would be appreciated, else I might have to start thinking...
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Originally posted by PipeUy View Post
I just finished converting my car to manual using that post as a reference for the spring and everything worked out perfectly.
The pictures do work, you probably are trying to view it in Google Chrome and for some reason they don't work on that browser, I used Safari and they are all there.
Any pointers for the swap since you just went though it lol?
I am about to tackle it myself just need the parts to start showing up.
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Originally posted by gheorghe View Post
Does anyone have a picture of the Original Manual trans torsion spring?
Reading the guide, there seems to be a difference in shape between the Mcmaster spring and the OEM one (pictures from post are gone):
Short Leg of the Torsion Spring
Here is what the guides get wrong. Notice in the Original BMW manual spring that the short leg is 90 degrees from the direction of the long leg. You have to unwind this side of the spring 45 degrees to match this angle. This is a bit difficult to do and will require a vice. Clamp the spring in the vice by the short leg. Take a long 3/8 extension and pass it through the spring inner diameter. Use the extension as a handle to pull up the spring to unwind 45 degrees out. You will have to straighten that leg out once done as it will still have some of wound arc to it. You are matching the 7 windings that the original BMW spring has by doing this. You are not adding any more or less pressure than the OE part. You are modifying the McMaster part to match it.
After you have corrected the short leg, you can visualize where to cut it and then add the small bend that the original had. Eyeball this, it isn't super critical.
The pictures do work, you probably are trying to view it in Google Chrome and for some reason they don't work on that browser, I used Safari and they are all there.
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Originally posted by pawelgawel View Postfound this today for anyone having same questions
https://www.mforum.net/forum/e90-m3-...n-revised-2020
Does anyone have a picture of the Original Manual trans torsion spring?
Reading the guide, there seems to be a difference in shape between the Mcmaster spring and the OEM one (pictures from post are gone):
Short Leg of the Torsion Spring
Here is what the guides get wrong. Notice in the Original BMW manual spring that the short leg is 90 degrees from the direction of the long leg. You have to unwind this side of the spring 45 degrees to match this angle. This is a bit difficult to do and will require a vice. Clamp the spring in the vice by the short leg. Take a long 3/8 extension and pass it through the spring inner diameter. Use the extension as a handle to pull up the spring to unwind 45 degrees out. You will have to straighten that leg out once done as it will still have some of wound arc to it. You are matching the 7 windings that the original BMW spring has by doing this. You are not adding any more or less pressure than the OE part. You are modifying the McMaster part to match it.
After you have corrected the short leg, you can visualize where to cut it and then add the small bend that the original had. Eyeball this, it isn't super critical.Last edited by gheorghe; 01-29-2021, 07:55 PM.
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Sorry guys haven't driven the car in a while, and forgot about this. Will get a pic for you today!
Build date Jan 23, 2002. Soon to be Canadian legal drinking age
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Originally posted by ATB88 View Post
Nope, ashtray wiring still intact. I'll take a pic next time I'm in the car
It's been a couple of years so I'm fuzzy on the details, but I think it was tucked away from the other wires down there and I had to look for it, but it was there waiting to be plugged in. I was kind of amazed, myself.
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