Camber plates. Whats the best to run?

[Tones]

Got ohlins r&t. seems like the vorshlag might be the way to go?

[Obioban]

What are you looking for from a camber plate?

IMO the Vorshlag does not pair well with the R&Ts-- the Vorshlag plate is a track focus plate, whereas the R&Ts are a Road AND Track focused setup.

[Tones]

What are you looking for from a camber plate?

IMO the Vorshlag does not pair well with the R&Ts-- the Vorshlag plate is a track focus plate, whereas the R&Ts are a Road AND Track focused setup.

Looking to get more negative camber to improve the handling of my mountain sled. Had the car recently aligned and it's now worse on the mountain roads, more understeer, but better on the highway and around town. Tech said that was the best he could do with stock parts.

I asked 3dm what his suggestions where and he said the vorshlag.

[jareds941]

I swapped front top hats side to side and got -3* up front as a “free” camber mod, FYI.

[r4dr]

I swapped front top hats side to side and got -3* up front as a “free” camber mod, FYI.

-3* just from swapping top hats??

[Obioban]

Looking to get more negative camber to improve the handling of my mountain sled. Had the car recently aligned and it's now worse on the mountain roads, more understeer, but better on the highway and around town. Tech said that was the best he could do with stock parts.

I asked 3dm what his suggestions where and he said the vorshlag.

If you're just looking for more camber all the time, swapping the hats should be able to get you there.

If you're looking to address understeer, I wouldn't go after it with camber. I'd get a softer front sway, stiffer rear sway, softer front springs, or stiffer rear springs.

If you still want camber plates, I wouldn't get the Vorshlag for street use. I'd want something with a thrust bearing to prevent low speed steering weirdness, something with a bushing to separate you from the monoball, and something that spreads the load across the tower better than the Vorshlags do, so you don't crack your towers on pot holes. Something like the Turner street camber plate.

[beefaroni]

I suggest running the BMW strut tower reinforcement plates with camber plates

part# 51717036781

[Tones]

If you're just looking for more camber all the time, swapping the hats should be able to get you there.

If you're looking to address understeer, I wouldn't go after it with camber. I'd get a softer front sway, stiffer rear sway, softer front springs, or stiffer rear springs.

If you still want camber plates, I wouldn't get the Vorshlag for street use. I'd want something with a thrust bearing to prevent low speed steering weirdness, something with a bushing to separate you from the monoball, and something that spreads the load across the tower better than the Vorshlags do, so you don't crack your towers on pot holes. Something like the Turner street camber plate.

I'm only at stock camber right now after the alignment and before the alignment the camber was at - 2 from just the coilovers being put on. So I know that camber is having a major effect mid corner. The understeer is happening mid corner where it used to not happen, not at the start of turn in. I'll look into the turner plate. Would they be comparable to the Apex street plates? With either of these plates do I need to also run the strut spacer that 3dm recommends for the vorshlag plates? I'll try swapping plates and see how that goes also

With the sway bars are you suggesting getting new adjustable seat bars and just have the stiffest setting for rear and soft for the front?

[r4dr]

Apex plates are Ground Control plates, no personal experience with their street plates though.

When you say you were at -2 before the alignment, what did you end up with after as "stock" camber? Is there any evidence of wear on the front tires' outside shoulders?

[Obioban]

I suggest running the BMW strut tower reinforcement plates with camber plates

part# 51717036781

Depends what camber plates you get. Certainly yes with the vorshlag plates, but some (like the turner plates I mentioned above) do not benefit from them.

[Obioban]

I'm only at stock camber right now after the alignment and before the alignment the camber was at - 2 from just the coilovers being put on. So I know that camber is having a major effect mid corner. The understeer is happening mid corner where it used to not happen, not at the start of turn in. I'll look into the turner plate. Would they be comparable to the Apex street plates? With either of these plates do I need to also run the strut spacer that 3dm recommends for the vorshlag plates? I'll try swapping plates and see how that goes also

With the sway bars are you suggesting getting new adjustable seat bars and just have the stiffest setting for rear and soft for the front?

The above mid corner section is only half complete, imo-- softening the opposite end of the car will have the same result.

But, if mid corner is where your issue is, camber isn't going to help-- you need to decrease rear grip or increase front grip by making the front softer and/or the rear stiffer, be it through sways or springs.

[Tones]

Apex plates are Ground Control plates, no personal experience with their street plates though.

When you say you were at -2 before the alignment, what did you end up with after as "stock" camber? Is there any evidence of wear on the front tires' outside shoulders?

Its at - 1 up front and -. 8 in the rear now before it was - 1.8 front.
The only place near me that will do thy alignment is a BMW dealer so the tech, my friend just tried to get it with in stock spec.

[Tones]

The above mid corner section is only half complete, imo-- softening the opposite end of the car will have the same result.

But, if mid corner is where your issue is, camber isn't going to help-- you need to decrease rear grip or increase front grip by making the front softer and/or the rear stiffer, be it through sways or springs.

Right on thanks for that graphic. Maybe I'm getting understeer but slightly in the entrance. All I know is the car is handing worse after my dealer tech friend aligned it to bmw spec. So my guess is camber and toe out where playing a roll in it handling better before the alignment. Pre alignment or was - 1.8 and some toe out up front and - 1.5 rear. After alignment it's much closer to stock spec - 1 up front -. 8 in the rear


Or maybe it's handling better and I'm going faster but from my glances at the gauge mid corner that doesn't seem to be the case.

[r4dr]

Its at - 1 up front and -. 8 in the rear now before it was - 1.8 front.
The only place near me that will do thy alignment is a BMW dealer so the tech, my friend just tried to get it with in stock spec.

Did you come from a stock setup? Not going to lie, -1.8 front if all other settings are within spec sounds much better than -1 especially for carving back roads.

[Tones]

Did you come from a stock setup? Not going to lie, -1.8 front if all other settings are within spec sounds much better than -1 especially for carving back roads.

The only suspenion mods I have are the ohlins and turner rtab I am planning on doing rear camber arms, sway bars and plates. More in a rush now that the car isn't nearly as fun as it was with more stock spec alignment.