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Anyone not resurface their cylinder head after removal?
bmwfnatic had a good suggestion in another thread for cleaning the block.
For the S65, BMW has two special tools for cleaning the surface of the Alusil block - a plastic scraper and a grinding stone.
In the Elring instructional video below, it is mentioned in the comments section that they are using an Arkansas Sharpening Stone, but "it is not useful in final surface finishing."
Some shops use 3M Roloc Bristle Disc P120 white. That should be also the fastest way to do the job.
I cleaned my head and block by hand. No machining, just measuring. Took me some time but wanted to do the job asap done. If I should do the job again I will give the head to a machine shop to look at all parts and machine the head.
bmwfnatic had a good suggestion in another thread for cleaning the block.
For the S65, BMW has two special tools for cleaning the surface of the Alusil block - a plastic scraper and a grinding stone.
In the Elring instructional video below, it is mentioned in the comments section that they are using an Arkansas Sharpening Stone, but "it is not useful in final surface finishing."
I actually purchased the BMW special tool grinding stone, part #83300495104. Surprisingly it worked well all around. Used it for the block, both the head gasket surface and the oil pan gasket surface. Also used it on the head (ended up sending it out for a resurface anyway due to some pitting) and it cleaned up really well.
I actually purchased the BMW special tool grinding stone, part #83300495104. Surprisingly it worked well all around. Used it for the block, both the head gasket surface and the oil pan gasket surface. Also used it on the head (ended up sending it out for a resurface anyway due to some pitting) and it cleaned up really well.
Nice, did any material come off the grinding stone when using it on the block? Looking at the video, the stone has a few rough edges, so I guess it can chip if the corner catches an edge on the block surface.
Nice, did any material come off the grinding stone when using it on the block? Looking at the video, the stone has a few rough edges, so I guess it can chip if the corner catches an edge on the block surface.
Where was the head pitted?
Not really…surprisingly it almost felt like it just cleaned up without removing material both from the stone and the surfaces. I still would recommend a good wipe of the surface afterwards. You can also see it being used in Sreten’s video at the 41 minute mark.
Disclaimer though, if you get the stone wet then it starts chipping off and material gunks up. Best to use this tool dry since it’s soft. I guess stone would be the wrong word, it feels like a solid sponge.
Here’s a pic of the head and piston…piston was slapping. Even after cleaning with the “sponge” you could feel the pitting. Figured cheap insurance to just get it machined.
Most important is to not create any low spots by means of power tools or sandpaper by hand.
Also pay attention that the MLS gasket needs a low Ra surface for the coating to seal properly, so don't go ham with 80 grit...
The BMW grinding stone in the video seems to work quite nicely.
I have a larger block that I made out of some square aluminium that is a bit longer than the S54, that way you only ever take out any high spots, there's only so much you can do with the engine still in the car.
What about parts? Which HG kits did you go with? Did you's replace the HeadBolt Washers ???
My order so far
Personally would keep:
Head gasket - Elring
Head bolts - OEM
Change:
Tensioner - from OEM to Beisan, while you’re at it with Beisan I would buy a bottle of drei bond sealant from them
Cam bolts - would just keep the originals if they’re in good condition and just use oil resistant blue loctite
What about parts? Which HG kits did you go with? Did you's replace the HeadBolt Washers ???
My order so far
You can reuse the VANOS hub bolts, so you don't need to spend extra on that. It is a good idea to keep the cam bolts on hand in case you think yours are backing out or broken - only 12 bucks.
You want to go Beisan for the chain guide as that should be reusable if the head has to come off during a full rebuild.
The gasket kit can be pieced together for less, especially if you are not going to replace the valve stem seals (genuine BMW valve stem seals are preferred) and are going to reuse your existing BMW VCG.
sbay did you replace the valve stem seals? Someone said that they don't see as much heat as on the M54 and last longer (possibly till a full rebuild).
You can reuse the VANOS hub bolts, so you don't need to spend extra on that. It is a good idea to keep the cam bolts on hand in case you think yours are backing out or broken - only 12 bucks.
You want to go Beisan for the chain guide as that should be reusable if the head has to come off during a full rebuild.
The gasket kit can be pieced together for less, especially if you are not going to replace the valve stem seals (genuine BMW valve stem seals are preferred) and are going to reuse your existing BMW VCG.
sbay did you replace the valve stem seals? Someone said that they don't see as much heat as on the M54 and last longer (possibly till a full rebuild).
Just noticed that’s the whole top end gasket set, not just the head gasket. Definitely can be pieced together for less. Tensioner bolt washers, camshaft sensor o-rings, fuel line o-ring, valve cover gasket (OE), oil return line washers, exhaust manifold gaskets, and vanos gasket should be all you need. You can get away with keeping the throttle bodies and water pipes attached.
Slideways I did the valve stem seals (corteco) only because it was a spun bearing and I wanted to clean the head incase any metal was hidden. I think for a head gasket job though you can definitely get away with not replacing them. S54 valve stem seals seem to be golden.
I wouldn’t, I can ship you the BMW head bolts from Europe for a normal price probably. I also have aftermarket 12.9 cam bolts available, the BMW “upgraded” ones with a torx head are still 8.8 and never feel quite right torqing them up…
Thank you for the help, What would be the shipping time for Europe? Wonder if Victor Reinz bolts are the OE manufacture
If you compare them on the ECS website, the markings on the head of the bolt are different. Also, the OE bolts have a line on the tip of the bolt, similar to OE connecting rod bolts. The tip on the VR bolts looks like it is cut like most bolts. They will probably work, but genuine bolts are 60 at FCP and show in stock.
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