Old AST 4150 Journey 3/17 Nitrogen Checked and Filled

[fattycharged]

Sam, you got it correct. Needle valve is super common on a non remote setup. I've got a nitrogen setup at the house if you don't have access to one.


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[samthejam]

Sam, you got it correct. Needle valve is super common on a non remote setup. I've got a nitrogen setup at the house if you don't have access to one.


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Awesome, if I have any trouble with my aircooled friends setup I'm borrowing. I'll setup something with you

[cobra]

Nitrogen pressure should not really be used as a tuning tool. In a monotube setup like that with no base valve, you probably need to run 150-250psi depending on valving. If you want to play around with it, try to machine the hole for a schrader valve and fill it with a bicycle shock pump.

[samthejam]

Nitrogen pressure should not really be used as a tuning tool. In a monotube setup like that with no base valve, you probably need to run 150-250psi depending on valving. If you want to play around with it, try to machine the hole for a schrader valve and fill it with a bicycle shock pump.

A lot of remote reservoir shocks will give the user a nitrogen fill port (schrader) for servicing, if the reservoirs have to be disconnected. Some use it for tuning but it's intended purpose is for service.

Also targets to aim for he said

"AST . They run they kind of high, too high if you ask me. But 150psi front..."

Good to know it can go up to 250, I'm hoping I can get a reading from the other damper.

My nuclear plan is if something happens to the self healing membrane is to take it to my dad and figure out to add a Schrader with his machine shop tools.

Again mainly trying to refill it to by me some time while I save up for something else, since the shock doesn't look majorly damaged just seems like it is leaking the nitrogen very slowly. Ideally new MCS 1 ways or a set of used 2 ways.

[samthejam]

The Nitrogen filling went well, the shock was only at 60 psi. I filled it to 150psi, and it needed about a 100lbs of force to begin opening the shock on my scale. I didn't want to poke the other "good" shock as it was kindve a fiddly affair and I just didn't want to create more problems as myself.

So my only way to match it was using the gas force. I had both out of the car anyways so this was easy enough. The "good" shock was 50-55lbs to open. So I just kept bleeding off the nitrogen until I was able to get it within 5-10lbs of the "good shock". Which ended up being 55-60lbs of force for the damper to move. I used a corner weight scale t to measure the gas force for all of this.

Stole the idea from FCM

Thank You @fattycharged for the nitrogen tank, regulator and lines

[cobra]

There is a good chance if you had the nitrogen leak out, it will leak out again especially after being poked. Just a heads up!
Several companies have moved to a screw with an o-ring instead, but that requires an even more specialized tool. Or a schrader valve which is the easiest.