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normally you determine the clearance you want and fit the correct nominal bearings and then depending what the actual clearance is you then make a decision from there as to whether you get a thou bigger shell and use on one or more halves or try different brand etc. Plastigauge is probably the best bet check for a novice with elcheapo tools provided you know the crank pin is round within spec and rod bore is round within spec when it is torqued
normally you determine the clearance you want and fit the correct nominal bearings and then depending what the actual clearance is you then make a decision from there as to whether you get a thou bigger shell and use on one or more halves or try different brand etc. Plastigauge is probably the best bet check for a novice with elcheapo tools provided you know the crank pin is round within spec and rod bore is round within spec when it is torqued
Interesting you mention cheap bolts, cause i got ARP's in the mail for my rod bearing job
I have a M11 engine 2001
Would it be safe to plastigage with the old M11's first, then fit ARP last?
I know the ARP are reusable, though if i don't have to use them twice, would be a bonus
Interesting you mention cheap bolts, cause i got ARP's in the mail for my rod bearing job
I have a M11 engine 2001
Would it be safe to plastigage with the old M11's first, then fit ARP last?
I know the ARP are reusable, though if i don't have to use them twice, would be a bonus
cheap tools i mean cheap bore gauge, indicator and mics.
Just use the ARP bolts they wont get hurt. Note you are supposed to size the rod bore with the ARP's torqued, so to me id only be using the ARP if that is a possibility otherwise the M11 are reusable if you are doing this in situ
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