PSA: Get an Eventuri Scoop

[davidinnyc]

Anri made this for me. He cut the lower section that has a collar and sucks air up from the fog light duct and got the Eventuri scoop to seat inside the factory duct that goes up into the engine bay. I also have my AIT installed (us style) at the top of this duct where the collar flares out.

I was creating a plastic version of the Eventuri scoop that pulled through the brake duct, used the stock tube that comes out it the brake duct area and then connects to the bottom of the elephant trunk that then connects to the snorkel… but, got tired. lol

[AWE46M3]

Anri made this for me. He cut the lower section with the collar that draws air from the fog light duct and fitted the Eventuri scoop to seat inside the factory duct leading into the engine bay. I also have my IAT sensor (US style) installed at the top of this duct, where the collar flares out.

[Bry5on]

I can ship you my elephant trunk if you need to scan. I had gotten 70% of the way with this project but then had to work through a capital raise that sucked the life out of me…

Yes please!

Ah, I was thinking the factory M3 brake duct could be divided into the two sections to feed both the intake and the brakes. It would basically be the Eventuri scoop integrated into the factory duct, but with a better transition and taller connection point to the factory CSL snorkel. Then you have the flexible coupler like the custom brake duct above.

Definitely doable, especially with some trimming/removal of parts of the factory duct. That’d be a little more fancy to CAD up but certainly is possible. The brake ducts kinda suck though, so I think the better route is to eliminate them and pick air up from under the car personally.

[Slideways]

The scan that’s needed for recreating this is the car with CSL intake and bumper installed, but no brake duct or fender liner

Ah, I was thinking the factory M3 brake duct could be divided into the two sections to feed both the intake and the brakes. It would basically be the Eventuri scoop integrated into the factory duct, but with a better transition and taller connection point to the factory CSL snorkel. Then you have the flexible coupler like the custom brake duct above.

[davidinnyc]

I just use the two factory plastic pieces for the post flap duct without the sound damper/snorkel/elephant trunk. I’ve been trying to get my hands on one for a while so that I can scan it and make it easily and cheaply reproducible for us mere mortals. So if anyone is reading and will let me borrow one, I’ll scan it and the files will be free for all!

Here’s my primary duct, the ZHP bumper has the same opening as the M3 but it’s just slightly rotated so this part isn’t a drop in on an M3 unfortunately. It bolts in using factory screws.

I can ship you my elephant trunk if you need to scan. I had gotten 70% of the way with this project but then had to work through a capital raise that sucked the life out of me…

[ATB88]

I just use the two factory plastic pieces for the post flap duct without the sound damper/snorkel/elephant trunk. I’ve been trying to get my hands on one for a while so that I can scan it and make it easily and cheaply reproducible for us mere mortals. So if anyone is reading and will let me borrow one, I’ll scan it and the files will be free for all!

Here’s my primary duct, the ZHP bumper has the same opening as the M3 but it’s just slightly rotated so this part isn’t a drop in on an M3 unfortunately. It bolts in using factory screws.

love it!

I am kicking myself for not buying the brand new elephant trunk piece that was for sale on the forum a few weeks ago, I was gonna do it and got busy with work and forgot :'< would totally have sent it your way!

[Bry5on]

I should have a spare factory brake duct to 3D scan

The scan that’s needed for recreating this is the car with CSL intake and bumper installed, but no brake duct or fender liner

[Slideways]

I just use the two factory plastic pieces for the post flap duct without the sound damper/snorkel/elephant trunk. I’ve been trying to get my hands on one for a while so that I can scan it and make it easily and cheaply reproducible for us mere mortals. So if anyone is reading and will let me borrow one, I’ll scan it and the files will be free for all!

Here’s my primary duct, the ZHP bumper has the same opening as the M3 but it’s just slightly rotated so this part isn’t a drop in on an M3 unfortunately. It bolts in using factory screws.

I should have a spare factory brake duct to 3D scan

[Bry5on]

I'm all for a custom solution if that's the way, but I probably don't have the skills to design that (not *that* kind of engineer ). If someone makes such a solution easily copyable I'm very in, but otherwise all I've got is a scoop pointing into the bottom of the snorkel lol. Does any part of your solution port over to a stock M3 bumper with a eventuri scoop?

Also, I thumbed through your thread and couldn't find what your solution is for post-flap ducting? Very curious about that! Especially considering the original CSL pieces for that are very hard to find these days.

I'll try the re-re-location next time I have a chance to play with my DME!

I just use the two factory plastic pieces for the post flap duct without the sound damper/snorkel/elephant trunk. I’ve been trying to get my hands on one for a while so that I can scan it and make it easily and cheaply reproducible for us mere mortals. So if anyone is reading and will let me borrow one, I’ll scan it and the files will be free for all!

Here’s my primary duct, the ZHP bumper has the same opening as the M3 but it’s just slightly rotated so this part isn’t a drop in on an M3 unfortunately. It bolts in using factory screws.

[ATB88]

1. What Heinz said above. I have a ZHP non-m bumper and CSL intake - I just designed a scoop to take over the brake duct. Properly ducting the eventuri scoop is probably 80% as good for 20% of the effort. So good suggestion in here.

2. Honestly it probably won’t hurt at all to move it back, and may even make the car more powerful. You probably had cool air and decent airflow during the dyno tune. Logic goes: If the car thinks it has cool air, it will not pull timing. If it’s getting hot air but doesn’t know about it, it can ping. If it pings, the car will pull timing semi-permanently (read: make less power). So really if you want the power, you should not try to trick the DME because you will only be screwing yourself, and also risking unnecessary pinging that is not good for your motor. Hence very foolish (as opposed to simply ‘foolish’)

I'm all for a custom solution if that's the way, but I probably don't have the skills to design that (not *that* kind of engineer ). If someone makes such a solution easily copyable I'm very in, but otherwise all I've got is a scoop pointing into the bottom of the snorkel lol. Does any part of your solution port over to a stock M3 bumper with a eventuri scoop?

Also, I thumbed through your thread and couldn't find what your solution is for post-flap ducting? Very curious about that! Especially considering the original CSL pieces for that are very hard to find these days.

I'll try the re-re-location next time I have a chance to play with my DME!

[LSB4Me]

Logic goes: If the car thinks it has cool air, it will not pull timing. If it’s getting hot air but doesn’t know about it, it can ping. If it pings, the car will pull timing semi-permanently (read: make less power). So really if you want the power, you should not try to trick the DME because you will only be screwing yourself, and also risking unnecessary pinging that is not good for your motor. Hence very foolish (as opposed to simply ‘foolish’)

This is very on point. You internet engineers are pretty smart (as opposed to regular “smart”) as this is exactly what my car experienced.

Post-scoop, I get intake roar that I just didn’t get before and the car pulls like it is finally breathing through both nostrils. In fact, there was a time that I thought my Eventuri intake (with scoop, importantly) was louder and more powerful than the full airbox. This was silly because during the intake months, I didn’t have CSL headers or 3.91s or Hassan’s tune. But “the butt dyno doesn’t lie,” as real live mechanic said once. Don’t trust internet mechanics. They don’t know.

[Bry5on]

As another random engineer on the internet, I appreciate that!

I guess two follow up questions:

1. Not everyone can afford a properly fitting CSL bumper with ducting :'< Are there good ducting alternatives for people running a stock bumper and a karbonius style flapless snorkel? If not ducted, do you think it's still foolish to relocate the IAT? I'm not trying to assert one way or another, just asking because IAT relocation seems to have been a pretty standard move in years past (which, of course, doesn't mean it's right).

2. If I'm running a custom dyno tune (hasan) that was created with my relocated IAT, I suppose that going back to stock IAT now (even if I change the IAT scaling back to stock with ECUworx tool) would probably be a bad idea? Thoughts?

1. What Heinz said above. I have a ZHP non-m bumper and CSL intake - I just designed a scoop to take over the brake duct. Properly ducting the eventuri scoop is probably 80% as good for 20% of the effort. So good suggestion in here.

2. Honestly it probably won’t hurt at all to move it back, and may even make the car more powerful. You probably had cool air and decent airflow during the dyno tune. Logic goes: If the car thinks it has cool air, it will not pull timing. If it’s getting hot air but doesn’t know about it, it can ping. If it pings, the car will pull timing semi-permanently (read: make less power). So really if you want the power, you should not try to trick the DME because you will only be screwing yourself, and also risking unnecessary pinging that is not good for your motor. Hence very foolish (as opposed to simply ‘foolish’)

[heinzboehmer]

1. Not everyone can afford a properly fitting CSL bumper with ducting :'< Are there good ducting alternatives for people running a stock bumper and a karbonius style flapless snorkel? If not ducted, do you think it's still foolish to relocate the IAT? I'm not trying to assert one way or another, just asking because IAT relocation seems to have been a pretty standard move in years past (which, of course, doesn't mean it's right).

One of the things in my (very long) backlog of projects is to design a Bryson style duct that goes from the left fog light opening to the snorkel. Any serious 3D printing filament should survive the temps that the piece will see. Also, no need for the stock brake ducts now that I'm running the Bryson scoops!

One day I'll get to it...

[ATB88]

The stock location is not really prone to heat soak at any moving speed if you have ducted the airbox to the front bumper. I have lots of data logs with the flap open/closed to my ducted bumper, they’re buried in my build thread somewhere, and also one below. It takes maybe 10 seconds for the temp to drop most of the way at a 60mph cruise.

Here’s a raw log (driving uphill, conservative) for review: https://datazap.me/u/bry5on/flap-tem...g?log=0&data=8

It’s pretty easy to determine when the flap opens/closes just from looking at the logs. Ducting to the bumper is important, relocating the IAT is in my opinion very foolish. But I’m just a random engineer on the internet

As another random engineer on the internet, I appreciate that!

I guess two follow up questions:

1. Not everyone can afford a properly fitting CSL bumper with ducting :'< Are there good ducting alternatives for people running a stock bumper and a karbonius style flapless snorkel? If not ducted, do you think it's still foolish to relocate the IAT? I'm not trying to assert one way or another, just asking because IAT relocation seems to have been a pretty standard move in years past (which, of course, doesn't mean it's right).

2. If I'm running a custom dyno tune (hasan) that was created with my relocated IAT, I suppose that going back to stock IAT now (even if I change the IAT scaling back to stock with ECUworx tool) would probably be a bad idea? Thoughts?

[Bry5on]

I thought I saw a post where Bry5on had done logging on this but now I can't find it.


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The stock location is not really prone to heat soak at any moving speed if you have ducted the airbox to the front bumper. I have lots of data logs with the flap open/closed to my ducted bumper, they’re buried in my build thread somewhere, and also one below. It takes maybe 10 seconds for the temp to drop most of the way at a 60mph cruise.

Here’s a raw log (driving uphill, conservative) for review: https://datazap.me/u/bry5on/flap-tem...g?log=0&data=8

It’s pretty easy to determine when the flap opens/closes just from looking at the logs. Ducting to the bumper is important, relocating the IAT is in my opinion very foolish. But I’m just a random engineer on the internet