S54 Vanos Splined Shaft Cap Damaged

[AZ-LSB-M3]

So while doing preventative maintenance on VANOS I decided to also install the anti-rattle kit from Beisans Systems. The problem is, I didn’t use an impact wrench to remove the cap off of the splined shaft and instead used a torque wrench. This caused the tool to dig into the cap of the splined shaft (or maybe I didn’t have it pushed in all the way even after hammering it down).

My question is, does the face of the splined shaft make contact at all with the vanos? Is it ok if I just sand down the face so there is no loose metal and it sits flush? Or is this just a disaster waiting to happen and I should order new ones from DrVanos (only place I can find them)?

p.s. does anyone know the part numbers for the spline shafts? Can’t seem to find them.

https://imgur.com/a/nxBD3Rv

[cobra]

Back when Raj was with us, he had a bunch of spares sitting around. I am not sure if the people currently operating Beisan could help you out but I'd start there to get a replacement.

As for the practicality of it, I would sand it down and it will make no difference, other than it being ugly.

[sapote]

My question is, does the face of the splined shaft make contact at all with the vanos?

No, it has no function but to hold the bearing together. For the stripped hole, you can drill 2 new holes for future cap removal.

You shouldn't touch this bearing if there was zero axial plays on the splined shaft. To rebuild the bearing with the anti rattle kit properly, it takes a lot of time and patience to lap the disc or ring spacer to get the bearing plays down to zero but not seize up -- not a trivia task. Any plays will cause rattle, and negative plays will cause piston seals to burn.

People get in trouble rebuilding this when they don't have to.

[Slideways]

So while doing preventative maintenance on VANOS I decided to also install the anti-rattle kit from Beisans Systems. The problem is, I didn’t use an impact wrench to remove the cap off of the splined shaft and instead used a torque wrench. This caused the tool to dig into the cap of the splined shaft (or maybe I didn’t have it pushed in all the way even after hammering it down).

My question is, does the face of the splined shaft make contact at all with the vanos? Is it ok if I just sand down the face so there is no loose metal and it sits flush? Or is this just a disaster waiting to happen and I should order new ones from DrVanos (only place I can find them)?

p.s. does anyone know the part numbers for the spline shafts? Can’t seem to find them.

https://imgur.com/a/nxBD3Rv

No, based on the fully bottomed out position of the piston and splined shaft, it does not contact as that would be metal on metal. Possibly could use some wet and dry 1000 to 2000 grit abrasive to get any of the peaks flat.

As cobra mentioned, Beisan sometimes stocks extra parts like this.

[AZ-LSB-M3]

Thanks for the responses! I’ll reach out to them and see if they have any spares. With that said, I think I made a mistake opening these up and installing the rattle kits myself. I should have done a little more research cause I don’t think they were even rattling. I just figured I should do everything while I’m in there.

My intake splined shaft seems good with no modifications needed on the rings but there seems to be a lot more noise now than before when I moved from side to side. I can spin the rod with no binding and it has the slightest bit of drag on it. Almost like it was from factory.

What’s worse is the exhaust splined shaft seems like it has TOO much play now. I can spin the rod with no resistance at all and I can move the rode side to side with no force needed whatsoever. And it seems to be clicking constantly when moving side to side at the slightest touch. This is after torquing both down to 55nm.

Neither shaft has any forwards or backwards (axial) play on the rod that I can discern.

I might just reinstall the old hardware and call it a day for both. Or maybe just buy the DrVanos ones that are pre-built.

[ATB88]

Thanks for the responses! I’ll reach out to them and see if they have any spares. With that said, I think I made a mistake opening these up and installing the rattle kits myself. I should have done a little more research cause I don’t think they were even rattling. I just figured I should do everything while I’m in there.

My intake splined shaft seems good with no modifications needed on the rings but there seems to be a lot more noise now than before when I moved from side to side. I can spin the rod with no binding and it has the slightest bit of drag on it. Almost like it was from factory.

What’s worse is the exhaust splined shaft seems like it has TOO much play now. I can spin the rod with no resistance at all and I can move the rode side to side with no force needed whatsoever. And it seems to be clicking constantly when moving side to side at the slightest touch. This is after torquing both down to 55nm.

Neither shaft has any forwards or backwards (axial) play on the rod that I can discern.

I might just reinstall the old hardware and call it a day for both. Or maybe just buy the DrVanos ones that are pre-built.

I found that just getting the pre-built Dr Vanos ones was exactly the correct cost/convenience tradeoff. 60k miles on them so far and zero issues.

[maupineda]

This is why people need to avoid internet hype. Those splines rarely go bad.

[Cubieman]

Right, waste of time and more possibility of error. That being said, I did this step as well, it made no difference whatsoever.

[sapote]

What’s worse is the exhaust splined shaft seems like it has TOO much play now. I can spin the rod with no resistance at all and I can move the rode side to side with no force needed whatsoever. And it seems to be clicking constantly when moving side to side at the slightest touch. This is after torquing both down to 55nm.

Neither shaft has any forwards or backwards (axial) play on the rod that I can discern.
.

It's unclear to me, as it has too much plays in one sentence but no plays in the other sentence, in BOLD.

[Slideways]

I have heard a few people say that needle bearings rarely go bad. On a normal running engine with regular oil changes, these splined shafts should be fine. I would inspect them for excess play on a very used, high mileage engine, but if they feel normal, I would not pull them apart. I did it on my first set (the whole while in there thing) and left them alone on the second VANOS I rebuilt.

[maupineda]

There are two plays for these splines

axial (sideways)
longitudinal (to their rotation axis)

axial play, lots, and is normal
longitudinal, there should be close to none

[AZ-LSB-M3]

It’s hard to explain without videos

Exhaust splined shaft noise: https://youtube.com/shorts/t7WQ5w3z0...2ESniVFXOaKFmh
Here you can see how loose the rod is and how easy it is to spin. It also makes a lot of noise.

Intake splined shaft noise:

https://youtube.com/shorts/YWAmvCNe_bk?si=FYs5sIAFjCKq6gZ1

This one is a bit better than the exhaust side but still noisy.

[Slideways]

It’s hard to explain without videos

Exhaust splined shaft noise: https://youtube.com/shorts/t7WQ5w3z0...2ESniVFXOaKFmh
Here you can see how loose the rod is and how easy it is to spin. It also makes a lot of noise.

Intake splined shaft noise:

https://youtube.com/shorts/YWAmvCNe_bk?si=FYs5sIAFjCKq6gZ1

This one is a bit better than the exhaust side but still noisy.

I believe the holes in the caps and the ones on the VANOS hubs allow oil to penetrate the needle bearings and spring washers to keep them lubricated. If you put some engine oil in the cap holes, it should be smoother and less noisy.

[sapote]

longitudinal (to their rotation axis)

The rest of the world call this "axial plays".


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In mechanical systems, "axial play," also known as "end play," refers to the movement of a component (like a bearing or a shaft) along its axis of rotation, while "radial play" refers to movement perpendicular to that axis.

[sapote]

It’s hard to explain without videos

.

Don't rock the shaft side way but push/pull along the shaft: if no plays detected and rotates smooth then it's good. Any plays or rotates not smooth then bad.