288/280 vs 280/272 cams.

[maupineda]

I would assume the same tolerance, +/- 0.025mm or +/- 0.001in

[duracellttu]

I did look before posting and it says 0.25mm or 0.0098''.

I stand corrected. I remember the numbers were different but didn't recall the units. Apologies for the confusion!

[Gt4]

If you go to the Schrick website and download the data sheet for the cams it will be listed there. The lash spec is different than stock cams.

I did look before posting and it says 0.25mm or 0.0098’’.

[terra]

What’s the intake & exhaust valve clearence with Schricks 280/272 camshafts? I read 0.0098’’ but is there a +- tolerance??

Stock it’s between 0.007-0.009’’ for intake and 0.011-0.013’’ for exhaust side? So I was wondering what is the tolerance with Schricks cause no way it will be bang on!!

I just assumed same tolerances as stock. So 0.009 - 0.011

[duracellttu]

What's the intake & exhaust valve clearence with Schricks 280/272 camshafts? I read 0.0098'' but is there a +- tolerance??

Stock it's between 0.007-0.009'' for intake and 0.011-0.013'' for exhaust side? So I was wondering what is the tolerance with Schricks cause no way it will be bang on!!

If you go to the Schrick website and download the data sheet for the cams it will be listed there. The lash spec is different than stock cams.

[Gt4]

What’s the intake & exhaust valve clearence with Schricks 280/272 camshafts? I read 0.0098’’ but is there a +- tolerance??

Stock it’s between 0.007-0.009’’ for intake and 0.011-0.013’’ for exhaust side? So I was wondering what is the tolerance with Schricks cause no way it will be bang on!!

[bmw m3 s50]

Only rockers are necessary with cams. The intake cam sensor is a pain to change so you can do that.

I did a full head refresh, all new valve parts along with a machining to clean it all up. I did all knock sensors, cam sensors, crank sensor, oil drain back to the pan with the check valve, ICV hoses, new injectors, new fuel regulator with a new vacuum line, new fuel filter, just did a waer pump and thermostat, the heater hose to the head(whoch was actually starting to leak), new chain tensioner, new tensioner guide with the reinforced one, and new spark plugs.

Check your metal coolant pipe for pitting. Coolant rarely gets replaced every 4 years and electrolysis eats at it. It's like a $200 pipe. I'm going to be ordering that as well one of these days. I haven't driven the car in 6 months sadly from just not having time to assemble it.

Did you by any chance post a thread on your install? I am probably going to replace as much as I can while in there so I am worry free. Grant it, the car has low mileage but the car is going thru a restoration and I am in the planning stage at this point with sourcing parts. I do plan on doing the VANOS lockout while I am doing cams so I would address the timing chain issues while doing the VANOS Lockdown.

[Arith2]

What is recommended to be changed when swapping cams?

I plan on doing Beisan Vanos Lockdown while I am in there, but would love to get as much as possible while I am in there to cut down on labor costs in the future.

Only rockers are necessary with cams. The intake cam sensor is a pain to change so you can do that.

I did a full head refresh, all new valve parts along with a machining to clean it all up. I did all knock sensors, cam sensors, crank sensor, oil drain back to the pan with the check valve, ICV hoses, new injectors, new fuel regulator with a new vacuum line, new fuel filter, just did a waer pump and thermostat, the heater hose to the head(whoch was actually starting to leak), new chain tensioner, new tensioner guide with the reinforced one, and new spark plugs.

Check your metal coolant pipe for pitting. Coolant rarely gets replaced every 4 years and electrolysis eats at it. It's like a $200 pipe. I'm going to be ordering that as well one of these days. I haven't driven the car in 6 months sadly from just not having time to assemble it.

[Epoustouflant]

What is recommended to be changed when swapping cams?

I plan on doing Beisan Vanos Lockdown while I am in there, but would love to get as much as possible while I am in there to cut down on labor costs in the future.

Well, what's recommended will vary on your current engine's condition, and planned use.

On the S54, I did full VANOS rebuild, a few tough to reach sensors while the engine was out, along with new cams, rockers and valve adjustments, along with every mandatory replacement bolts, gaskets and o-rings.

On the S85, going a bit further on the 296/284 cams install and doing new valve seats, stems, uprated springs, titanium retainers and collets as there's no VANOS to overhaul, along with every mandatory replacement bolts, gaskets and o-rings.

Rod bearings were serviced on both engines as well.

When it comes to this engine work, it's always best to discuss face to face with whoever will work on your engine to get a feel for their experience, and distinguishing from what you'll read on the Internet, and what happens in real life.

[bmw m3 s50]

Not every single product will be perfect every time. It's just how it is. Follow torque sequences and replace the bolts that need to be replaced. There is so much you can replace while doing cams. I opted to doing literally every sensor, hose, and refresh my SMG fluid which has a 5 year service life. Have you removed a head before?

What is recommended to be changed when swapping cams?

I plan on doing Beisan Vanos Lockdown while I am in there, but would love to get as much as possible while I am in there to cut down on labor costs in the future.

[Arith2]

That’s a relief. I keep reading thread about cam failures from CAT and now Schrick, it had me worried. There are so many members with cam failure it had me second guessing myself.


I am trying to build my motor NA but not have any problems. I am hoping I can catch some Black Friday deals on the Schrick cams and DLC followers.

is there anything else needed to get the cams to work properly and not risk future failure?

Not every single product will be perfect every time. It's just how it is. Follow torque sequences and replace the bolts that need to be replaced. There is so much you can replace while doing cams. I opted to doing literally every sensor, hose, and refresh my SMG fluid which has a 5 year service life. Have you removed a head before?

[bmw m3 s50]

No. It is EXTREMELY unlikely a cam will fail if you're replacing the rockers. For any car of any brands, these are always to be replaced with the cams. If you don't then it doesn't really matter what cam you use, it's prone to fail. I've seen a customer do it cheap, replace a cam and only do the lifter on the lobe that failed. They needed another cam shortly after and a few of the other lobes wore terribly. The engine was in the 90k range. This was a VR6 engine in a Cayenne. Do it right the first time and there's a very good chance you won't have to do it again. We've all been there due to time and/or money however this is one area that can destroy an engine in seconds. I wouldn't shy away from cams if you plan to spend the money for both.

That’s a relief. I keep reading thread about cam failures from CAT and now Schrick, it had me worried. There are so many members with cam failure it had me second guessing myself.


I am trying to build my motor NA but not have any problems. I am hoping I can catch some Black Friday deals on the Schrick cams and DLC followers.

is there anything else needed to get the cams to work properly and not risk future failure?

[Arith2]

Hey, are the schrick cam failures common at this point? I have been considering buying a set of 280/272 but have been concerned regarding the increased reported failures.

Are the failures related to not using the DLC followers?

No. It is EXTREMELY unlikely a cam will fail if you're replacing the rockers. For any car of any brands, these are always to be replaced with the cams. If you don't then it doesn't really matter what cam you use, it's prone to fail. I've seen a customer do it cheap, replace a cam and only do the lifter on the lobe that failed. They needed another cam shortly after and a few of the other lobes wore terribly. The engine was in the 90k range. This was a VR6 engine in a Cayenne. Do it right the first time and there's a very good chance you won't have to do it again. We've all been there due to time and/or money however this is one area that can destroy an engine in seconds. I wouldn't shy away from cams if you plan to spend the money for both.

[bmw m3 s50]

ZiMMie unfortunately he's right. After my ordeal with the post COVID Schricks that failed after break in of about 1,200kms I got a full cat cams set. The intake cam where the vanos vvt socket goes, the one the cam sprockets bolt to, and where the spline shaft enters was of conical shape. Smaller at the mouth and larger at the rear. Off by 0.015 at the mouth and +0.025 at the rear. Dad's a veteran Peng, said that after the hardening process they didn't recheck the cylinder values since the coating inside the cam was consistent with the rest of the piece (ie no machining traces).

Upon contacting catcams they said impossible until I showed them video and pics. They took care of shipping and returned the cam machined, I didn't get a new one as this cam was brand new never used.

I've been running the cat cam setup now for 2000km+ and no issues so far. I've delayed the new injectors and fuel rail to take my time with break in.

Once you open up the engine and deviating from stock you take major risks, financial and emotional.

Hey, are the schrick cam failures common at this point? I have been considering buying a set of 280/272 but have been concerned regarding the increased reported failures.

Are the failures related to not using the DLC followers?

[Arith2]

ZiMMie unfortunately he's right. After my ordeal with the post COVID Schricks that failed after break in of about 1,200kms I got a full cat cams set. The intake cam where the vanos vvt socket goes, the one the cam sprockets bolt to, and where the spline shaft enters was of conical shape. Smaller at the mouth and larger at the rear. Off by 0.015 at the mouth and +0.025 at the rear. Dad's a veteran Peng, said that after the hardening process they didn't recheck the cylinder values since the coating inside the cam was consistent with the rest of the piece (ie no machining traces).

Upon contacting catcams they said impossible until I showed them video and pics. They took care of shipping and returned the cam machined, I didn't get a new one as this cam was brand new never used.

I've been running the cat cam setup now for 2000km+ and no issues so far. I've delayed the new injectors and fuel rail to take my time with break in.

Once you open up the engine and deviating from stock you take major risks, financial and emotional.

This is why I removed my head, got it machined, new hardware and went with Schrick. I saw these issues arising so I ended up spending $7k on the head. I prefer everything right. All hardware, including sensors, is also getting replaced. Some are going to see this and understand, others are going to have a brain aneurysm.