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    Schrick cams install

    Hey Fellas,

    When installing cams and followers, is it's easier to remove the head, install followers, reinstall, then install cams..... or take apart the front of the car to provide room for the rod/followers install, then cams, etc?

    Thanks,
    Kareem

    #2
    Front end by far. There's like ten bolts holding it it.

    Need to drain coolant for either option and head removal involves header removal, which is no fun

    On the other hand, going from cam install to full head removal isn't that much more labor (comparatively), so could be a good time to do the head gasket.
    2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

    2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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      #3
      Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
      Front end by far. There's like ten bolts holding it it.

      Need to drain coolant for either option and head removal involves header removal, which is no fun

      On the other hand, going from cam install to full head removal isn't that much more labor (comparatively), so could be a good time to do the head gasket.
      Im basically swapping my parts from my old m3 to my new one. Ive already disconnected the headers as they are being swapped. So since everything is disconnected (except the coolant system), I sense you're leaning towards just pull the heads of both, pit new head gaskets on both?

      if compression is great on both motors, will myself torquing the head bolts vs the factory machine, be worse (as in can human error mess up compression)?

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        #4
        Originally posted by x Spades x View Post

        Im basically swapping my parts from my old m3 to my new one. Ive already disconnected the headers as they are being swapped. So since everything is disconnected (except the coolant system), I sense you're leaning towards just pull the heads of both, pit new head gaskets on both?

        if compression is great on both motors, will myself torquing the head bolts vs the factory machine, be worse (as in can human error mess up compression)?
        Use a quality torque wrench, read instructions thoroughly, take your time and you will be good.
        But yes if done incorrectly you could have loss of performance and/or damage to the head/block.
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          #5
          Originally posted by x Spades x View Post

          Im basically swapping my parts from my old m3 to my new one. Ive already disconnected the headers as they are being swapped. So since everything is disconnected (except the coolant system), I sense you're leaning towards just pull the heads of both, pit new head gaskets on both?

          if compression is great on both motors, will myself torquing the head bolts vs the factory machine, be worse (as in can human error mess up compression)?
          Oh, yeah. I would definitely pull the head in that situation. Might as well refresh what you can since the extra labor is minimal.
          2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

          2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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            #6
            Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

            Oh, yeah. I would definitely pull the head in that situation. Might as well refresh what you can since the extra labor is minimal.
            Do people typically over tq by 1 to 2 ft lbs just in case?

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              #7
              Originally posted by x Spades x View Post

              Do people typically over tq by 1 to 2 ft lbs just in case?
              No, just follow the factory instructions.
              2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

              2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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                #8
                Does the car have AC? If not then pull the front end off.

                If the motor is healthy, I'd do the work in the car. Why open up an otherwise healthy motor? Then you'll need to get the head decked. At that point might as well go through the head, replace the stem seals, pressure test it, etc.

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                  #9
                  I had to unbolt the front passenger part of the bar, jack the engine up a bit for tilt and cut a specific corner on the part to get the exhaust rocker rod out. IMO easier to do then take head off/apart and retorque etc.
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