Looking for clutch replacement DIY recommendations

[Big Nodge]

First time I’ve been compared to a grandpa! I’m only 44. But if the shoe fits. All healed up thanks, surgery was last December, raced champcar at Watkins Glen in my buddy’s E30 racecar in May, rode downhill MTB at Whistler with my son a few weeks ago, so I’m back baby.

I would again highly suggest an electric ratchet. Once you finally get the socket on the top bolts, you really don’t want it to slip off again. And having an electric ratchet or impact helps you keep pressure on the extensions to hold the socket in place while backing the bolt out with the e ratchet.

This worked well for my pilot bearing, and the centering bushing on the driveshaft. Handy thing to have in the shop: https://www.harborfreight.com/slide-hammer-and-bearing-puller-set-5-piece-62601.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_ca mpaign=21905696056&campaignid=21905696056&utm_cont ent=169026379663&adsetid=169026379663&product=6260 1&store=338&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21905696 05 6&gbraid=0AAAAADAHb4cBiutAdbW_fRcbl0i4zbF2X&gcli d= EAIaIQobChMIiqym0fPLjwMVg2dHAR0MhRT0EAQYASABEgL96P D_BwE

[SteelGreyM]

Thank you !!!

Yes using all stock parts. I end up using a cordless drill instead of a ratchet, been planning on getting one, but just been lazy.

E ratchet way better imo. First electric tool ive ever owned and still works like a charm years later.

[6speedS54]

I've done this many times. It's really not that tough of a job and you can't really screw it up.

Some tips-

-Use an electric 3/8” ratchet and get all the different size extensions you can. If you don't have an electric ratchet what are you even doing? It’s hell working on cars without power tools.

-Bread + grease works just fine for the pilot bearing

-Remove the fan from the front of the motor this will allow it to tilt backwards *without nicking the radiator.* This makes it easier to access the top bell housing bolts.

-do not unbolt the subframe you will just lengthen the job and create unnecessary work

-if using stock clutch and pressure plate just remember that the pressure plate is one time use and requires a special tool to reset it. So basically be sure you’re 100% ready to put it back on cause it ain’t coming off.

-in my experience it's easier to just lift the trans than use a trans jack. It's really not that heavy. Having a friend around for the actual physical removal and install of the trans is very helpful. One person can be at the bell housing making sure everything is lining up while the other is doing the heavy lifting/manipulation of the trans.

Good luck and work clean! If you need any help you can always message me

Thank you !!!

Yes using all stock parts. I end up using a cordless drill instead of a ratchet, been planning on getting one, but just been lazy.

[SteelGreyM]

I've done this many times. It's really not that tough of a job and you can't really screw it up.

Some tips-

-Use an electric 3/8” ratchet and get all the different size extensions you can. If you don't have an electric ratchet what are you even doing? It’s hell working on cars without power tools.

-Bread + grease works just fine for the pilot bearing

-Remove the fan from the front of the motor this will allow it to tilt backwards *without nicking the radiator.* This makes it easier to access the top bell housing bolts.

-do not unbolt the subframe you will just lengthen the job and create unnecessary work

-if using stock clutch and pressure plate just remember that the pressure plate is one time use and requires a special tool to reset it. So basically be sure you’re 100% ready to put it back on cause it ain’t coming off.

-in my experience it's easier to just lift the trans than use a trans jack. It's really not that heavy. Having a friend around for the actual physical removal and install of the trans is very helpful. One person can be at the bell housing making sure everything is lining up while the other is doing the heavy lifting/manipulation of the trans.

Good luck and work clean! If you need any help you can always message me

[dukeofchen]

I picked up 1/2" extensions with a wobble socket, plus I have a decent size ratchet, hoping it won't be bad. I changed out my starter about 8 months ago and didn't really have issues removing starter bolts besides access, added anti-seize so at least those bolts won't be an issue. For the pilot bearing I will need to do the same as you either tissue or bread.

Here is the video(https://youtu.be/VL8sS7WNSs8?si=9irXa6nky5QY6iSv) I was talking about, although this guy unbolted the subframe completely, plus with his lift he had a tons of space once the engine was lowered. The first comment under the video mentioned 1" unbolted helped a lot.

Wow, I was definitely working with a LOT less clearance than he has in the video, so his approach seems like a good way to go. Makes sense since however much the subframe is dropped you'll get some multiple of that in clearance further back at the bell housing.

If your pilot bearing is anything like mine, put on some heavy metal and imagine yourself wielding Thor's hammer. And use a rod or bolt as close to the ID of the bearing as possible to minimize the amount of tissue / water / bread extruding itself through the gap as you hammer away. It'll be stuck…until it isn't.

[6speedS54]

I didn't, but that seems like it would achieve the same effect. It's definitely a game of inches with those top bolts, I imagine it also would have been much easier if I had an impact wrench on hand at the time, as snaking the extensions onto the head with only a breaker bar was comically difficult.

Another sticking point for me was the pilot bearing, as mine was quite seized in there. Common jaw pullers can't get purchase on the inner race of the bearing, so I went with the old school wet tissue / bolt / hammer method, but it took a LOT of pounding before it would budge.

I picked up 1/2" extensions with a wobble socket, plus I have a decent size ratchet, hoping it won't be bad. I changed out my starter about 8 months ago and didn't really have issues removing starter bolts besides access, added anti-seize so at least those bolts won't be an issue. For the pilot bearing I will need to do the same as you either tissue or bread.

Here is the video(https://youtu.be/VL8sS7WNSs8?si=9irXa6nky5QY6iSv) I was talking about, although this guy unbolted the subframe completely, plus with his lift he had a tons of space once the engine was lowered. The first comment under the video mentioned 1" unbolted helped a lot.

[dukeofchen]

Have you tried partially unbolting the subframe bolts? I was watching a video, now I forgot which one, and the guy said you only need 3/4 of an inch or so to get better spacing?

I didn't, but that seems like it would achieve the same effect. It's definitely a game of inches with those top bolts, I imagine it also would have been much easier if I had an impact wrench on hand at the time, as snaking the extensions onto the head with only a breaker bar was comically difficult.

Another sticking point for me was the pilot bearing, as mine was quite seized in there. Common jaw pullers can't get purchase on the inner race of the bearing, so I went with the old school wet tissue / bolt / hammer method, but it took a LOT of pounding before it would budge.

[6speedS54]

In my experience anything you can do to get extra tilt is worth it. If I were to do it again I'd loosen the motor mounts, remove the fan/shroud, and use an engine support bar to avoid jacking from the oil pan.

The top passenger side bolts are a bear because you can't see / reach them from above even with the manifold/starter out of the way. And with all the wobbles/extensions required, getting the socket onto those e-torx heads is like playing a claw game at the arcade. So if nothing else the extra clearance will allow you to shine more light down the transmission tunnel as you try to line things up while curled up like a shrimp 😂

Have you tried partially unbolting the subframe bolts? I was watching a video, now I forgot which one, and the guy said you only need 3/4 of an inch or so to get better spacing?

[6speedS54]

Good luck . ... .while I think this was a freak occurrence, I feel compelled to warm you to be careful separating the tranny from the engine once you get the bolts out. I got all the bolts out myself and was rushing to get the tranny out since I had to go somewhere. The tranny input shaft was slightly fused to the clutch with a little corrosion, and it took some force to break it free. So I am lying on my back under the car, pushing up and twisting the tranny with both arms to break it loose and my left bicep tendon popped. Made a nice crunch, cost me surgery and about 4 months of my life, including a full snowboard season. Worst part, after surgery some buddies came by to help get the tranny out, mostly for my mental health. They wiggled it free in like two minutes. I was that close! So yeah, be careful. As a co-worker who had the same injury put it, "weird shit started happening after I turned 40".

I am giving myself at least a day for this starting early in the morning (Sat/Sun), just picked up 6 ton jack stands for the front to raise it a bit higher. Sorry to hear about your bicep, hope it all healed up, this reminds me of my grandpa when I was way younger and he popped his bicep trying to lift something. I am 51, so I know what your friend was saying, a this moment my ankle is kinda tender for no reason 😂

[dukeofchen]

In my experience anything you can do to get extra tilt is worth it. If I were to do it again I'd loosen the motor mounts, remove the fan/shroud, and use an engine support bar to avoid jacking from the oil pan.

The top passenger side bolts are a bear because you can't see / reach them from above even with the manifold/starter out of the way. And with all the wobbles/extensions required, getting the socket onto those e-torx heads is like playing a claw game at the arcade. So if nothing else the extra clearance will allow you to shine more light down the transmission tunnel as you try to line things up while curled up like a shrimp 😂

[Big Nodge]

Good luck . ... .while I think this was a freak occurrence, I feel compelled to warm you to be careful separating the tranny from the engine once you get the bolts out. I got all the bolts out myself and was rushing to get the tranny out since I had to go somewhere. The tranny input shaft was slightly fused to the clutch with a little corrosion, and it took some force to break it free. So I am lying on my back under the car, pushing up and twisting the tranny with both arms to break it loose and my left bicep tendon popped. Made a nice crunch, cost me surgery and about 4 months of my life, including a full snowboard season. Worst part, after surgery some buddies came by to help get the tranny out, mostly for my mental health. They wiggled it free in like two minutes. I was that close! So yeah, be careful. As a co-worker who had the same injury put it, "weird shit started happening after I turned 40".

[M3fanatic580]

Thanks for the instructional uploads. Will be attempting this soon.

[oceansize]

PDF of the above

dfA019gt1ap.pdf

[BL92]

Here is TIS instructions

Link expires in 24 hours

https://jumpshare.com/s/TL0GW5lxVUdHNnF5whJ2

[6speedS54]

I did this on my E36 M3 recently, you can probably get better E46-specific tips. But I did loosen the engine mounts and used an engine support bar to tip the front of the engine up a bit, to give you a little more angle to get at the top bolts. Double check if that's a good idea on the E46, it's possible it puts pressure on stuff up near the firewall as the engine tips. I just tipped it slowly and kept an eye on everything. On my car the transmission tunnel sound deadening material was deteriorating and that was sort of a nightmare, so getting that stuff cleaned up and out of the way helped a lot. I found an amazon borescope was really helpful in getting the socket on the top bolts. An electric ratchet or impact also really helps, as suggested. Probably the best accessory is a friend with long skinny arms.

I also found this very helpful: https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ack-70262.html

Thank you !! I am borrowing that scissor jack from a friend, the engine tilting part, don’t have engine support but will use a jack with a piece of wood on the oil pan or AC compressor to push it up a little, I think I only need small amount of movement for better clearance.