Looking for clutch replacement DIY recommendations

[6speedS54]

I changed my clutch yesterday, it was an all day affair ending at 1am. Besides the car having 124K miles and not knowing previous history, I was hoping to resolve intermittent pop-outs when releasing the clutch, it never pops out when in gear cleanly. Well that issue is not solved. Unfortunately I didn't replace detents, so either that's the issue or transmission itself. If anyone has seen this and knows what the problem is, please let me know 😐

[bimmerfan08]

Just did this job a few weeks ago. The biggest challenge is the position of the bellhousing bolts and the available clearance. Ensure the clutch disc and friction plate are centered well, too; otherwise, the transmission input shaft splines will not insert. I recommend using the clutch alignment tool and double-checking alignment. The tool in my LuK clutch kit was plastic and was partially bent, so be mindful of that.

[6speedS54]

Leave the subframe bolts in, just partially back them out and then lower the subframe. Of course, you would want to support the subframe. It makes the two lower block bolts much easier to get a socket on. There is a risk of cross threading those bolts, especially the driver's side, because the trans tunnel interferes just enough so that the socket isn't on straight. Then there is not enough room to thread the bolt in by hand unless you have little girl hands...lol

I know this because...I cross threaded a bolt. What a nightmare! I've probably had more practice than most when I was trying to figure out the whole resetting the self-adjusting clutch mechanism process. God that fucking sucked...at least it was with a 5 speed. I was soooo close to buying a lift.

does it make a difference if you use an articulating socket or a wobble extension? It is really helpful to have this amount of info between the forum and YouTube. I generally don't dive into this level of maintenance, but watching and reading how to do it pushed me toward it 😂 Not afraid to try just don't want the car out of commission for too long. Need to pickup and take kids to school during the week and second car is in wife's hands most of the time. Really appreciate the detail.

[bigjae46]

Don't shops just jack up the front of the engine a little, while it is still connected to the front subframe, to gain more access to the trans bolts? Removing the subframe with the trans mount disconnected seems very sketchy, even with the engine support bar.

TIS says to remove the intake manifold as well; otherwise, that carbon airbox might go crunch against the firewall.

Leave the subframe bolts in, just partially back them out and then lower the subframe. Of course, you would want to support the subframe. It makes the two lower block bolts much easier to get a socket on. There is a risk of cross threading those bolts, especially the driver's side, because the trans tunnel interferes just enough so that the socket isn't on straight. Then there is not enough room to thread the bolt in by hand unless you have little girl hands...lol

I know this because...I cross threaded a bolt. What a nightmare! I've probably had more practice than most when I was trying to figure out the whole resetting the self-adjusting clutch mechanism process. God that fucking sucked...at least it was with a 5 speed. I was soooo close to buying a lift.

[6speedS54]

Don't shops just jack up the front of the engine a little, while it is still connected to the front subframe, to gain more access to the trans bolts? Removing the subframe with the trans mount disconnected seems very sketchy, even with the engine support bar.

TIS says to remove the intake manifold as well; otherwise, that carbon airbox might go crunch.

bigjae is saying to only loosen it slightly, I've seen this also in a few videos, loosening it a little plus tilting gives you that extra space, I'll see how it is when I get to it, hopefully the following weekend.

[Slideways]

Don't shops just jack up the front of the engine a little, while it is still connected to the front subframe, to gain more access to the trans bolts? Removing the subframe with the trans mount disconnected seems very sketchy, even with the engine support bar.

TIS says to remove the intake manifold as well; otherwise, that carbon airbox might go crunch against the firewall.

[6speedS54]

Probably can just put a jack on the front subframe, back the subframe bolts out and slowly lower the subframe.

great, I got 3 hydraulic jacks ready to go 😂

[bigjae46]

Can I do this without the engine bar? maybe raise engine from the AC compressor? I did this when changing the engine mounts.

Probably can just put a jack on the front subframe, back the subframe bolts out and slowly lower the subframe.

[6speedS54]

First, I pull the intake mani and undo the starter bolts from up top. A 10mm ratcheting wrench with a flex head.

Then I loosen the engine mounts and then use an engine bar to lift the engine a bit. Then loosen the subframe bolts and leave a couple of threads. Then lower the engine back onto the engine mounts. Extra work but makes getting to the twp lower block bolts WAY easier. You can just use a straight extension and not screw up the bolt head and avoid cross threading the bolt when reinstalling. Or use a long reach ratchet.

The back of the trans is heavier…be ready when it comes off.

Can I do this without the engine bar? maybe raise engine from the AC compressor? I did this when changing the engine mounts.

[bigjae46]

First, I pull the intake mani and undo the starter bolts from up top. A 10mm ratcheting wrench with a flex head.

Then I loosen the engine mounts and then use an engine bar to lift the engine a bit. Then loosen the subframe bolts and leave a couple of threads. Then lower the engine back onto the engine mounts. Extra work but makes getting to the twp lower block bolts WAY easier. You can just use a straight extension and not screw up the bolt head and avoid cross threading the bolt when reinstalling. Or use a long reach ratchet.

The back of the trans is heavier…be ready when it comes off.

[6speedS54]

FYI, transmission Guide Sleeve is very close in diameter to the main seal, used one could be used to squeeze new seal in

[BL92]

This guy uses a transmission jack as well

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vjvL4A7kVjk

This is why not to use a pry bar to take off the gearbox

























....................

[BL92]

Honestly wouldn't risk removing the box without a proper gearbox jack

Check this DIY and the jack he used

https://youtu.be/f8-9svwF60g?t=500

Pittburgh transmission jack

[6speedS54]

I'm far from a wrench god and admittedly hit every branch falling out of the tree on this job without power tools or a transmission jack – but OP is planning to do this on jack stands, which I'd say makes it significantly tougher than it would be with a lift or even the additional clearance afforded by quickjacks.

I hit up the neighborhood on Nextdoor to see if anyone had quickjacks but crickets That's why I grabbed a pair of 6 ton jack stands, they go up to 23 inches, although my rear ones are 3 ton which only go up 16-17. Should be ok though. A bit more room upfront with those.

[dukeofchen]

I've done this many times. It's really not that tough of a job and you can't really screw it up.

I'm far from a wrench god and admittedly hit every branch falling out of the tree on this job without power tools or a transmission jack – but OP is planning to do this on jack stands, which I'd say makes it significantly tougher than it would be with a lift or even the additional clearance afforded by quickjacks.