I did this on my E36 M3 recently, you can probably get better E46-specific tips. But I did loosen the engine mounts and used an engine support bar to tip the front of the engine up a bit, to give you a little more angle to get at the top bolts. Double check if that's a good idea on the E46, it's possible it puts pressure on stuff up near the firewall as the engine tips. I just tipped it slowly and kept an eye on everything. On my car the transmission tunnel sound deadening material was deteriorating and that was sort of a nightmare, so getting that stuff cleaned up and out of the way helped a lot. I found an amazon borescope was really helpful in getting the socket on the top bolts. An electric ratchet or impact also really helps, as suggested. Probably the best accessory is a friend with long skinny arms.
I also found this very helpful: https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ack-70262.html
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I’m in the middle of a long term project so I can’t really provide input on time.Originally posted by 6speedS54 View Post
how long is it taking you?
yeah I can see having access to the starter bolts, I had to change my starter 10 months ago and remove those e12s. I hope not to go that route but certainly not off the table
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how long is it taking you?Originally posted by ///M3RIC View PostI’m in the middle of this right now and some engine work so I have the intake manifold removed. This has made it easier to access some of the top bolts, the e12s on the starter can be removed from this angle. At the very least you can line up the socket with the e12s and e14s that are up there.
I think when I put everything back it will also make it easier because I’ll be able to get the bolts started by hand.
For some bolts, it is ideal to have an impact wrench because there’s not much room for ratcheting.
I didn’t loosen the subframe or engine mounts, not sure about that method.
yeah I can see having access to the starter bolts, I had to change my starter 10 months ago and remove those e12s. I hope not to go that route but certainly not off the table
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I’m in the middle of this right now and some engine work so I have the intake manifold removed. This has made it easier to access some of the top bolts, the e12s on the starter can be removed from this angle. At the very least you can line up the socket with the e12s and e14s that are up there.
I think when I put everything back it will also make it easier because I’ll be able to get the bolts started by hand.
For some bolts, it is ideal to have an impact wrench because there’s not much room for ratcheting.
I didn’t loosen the subframe or engine mounts, not sure about that method.
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Looking for clutch replacement DIY recommendations
I am getting ready to replace my clutch on jack stands (3 ton, max height 16-17 inches).
- I've watched multiple YouTube videos from different people (FCP, shoplife, a few others) and have a pretty good sense of what I need to do.
- I got 1/2" drive extensions with a wobble connector for the top bolts and a decent size ratchet to make it easier
- My biggest concern is reaching the top transmission bolts and detaching and then re-attaching the transmission
I am looking for suggestions that will make it easier, for example I saw someone mention to unbolt subframe bolts a little bit and losen up the engine mounts, that way the engine would lower just a tiny bit which would give more clearance. Is that safe?
Any other suggestions, I've never tackled this, but have removed the drive shaft and replaced the shifter/guibo previously.Tags: None

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