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Metal in Trans Fluid

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    Metal in Trans Fluid

    So my SMG track car with has suffered in the past from occasional 3 to 4 mis-shifts. This last event however it was way worse than previous. I dropped the trans fluid and found non-ferrous metal flakes. I am in the process of dropping the trans. It has 104k mi on it. With the past 15k being hard miles. I am hoping the mis-shifts were just compression springs that are broken.

    Do you guys think I should I just be looking for a new trans or is it worth trying to save this one?

    Also, please forgive the dumb question. But I dropped the trans fluid but the trans is still in gear. Can I safely shift to neutral without filling the trans fluid as long as I don't start the engine?

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    #2
    Originally posted by eacmen View Post
    But I dropped the trans fluid but the trans is still in gear. Can I safely shift to neutral without filling the trans fluid as long as I don't start the engine?​
    No problem, even with engine running not too long, less than 5 minutes. Dry input shaft bearing is only to worry about if engine running too long.

    Non-ferrous metal, like aluminum or brass? I don't think the box is trash, but I would replace all the detent springs, balls, sleeves, the roller pin, and it should be fine again.

    Comment


      #3
      Are you driving in S5 or S6 and staying WOT when shifting?

      When we were running the SMG trans in the endurance race car we were killing 4th gear in the transmissions. Running them in S4 and just barely lifting on the shifts greatly extended their life.

      I think if you pull apart the trans and inspect all the detents and spring you are not going to find anything obvious.

      I'd personally be looking for a transmission.
      '09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Alpine 330iT
      Instagram @HillPerformanceBimmers
      Email to [email protected]

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        #4
        Originally posted by George Hill View Post
        Are you driving in S5 or S6 and staying WOT when shifting?

        When we were running the SMG trans in the endurance race car we were killing 4th gear in the transmissions. Running them in S4 and just barely lifting on the shifts greatly extended their life.

        I think if you pull apart the trans and inspect all the detents and spring you are not going to find anything obvious.

        I'd personally be looking for a transmission.
        George, which 4th gear parts you think are damaged? If anything I think it might be the synchro, but OP didn’t report hearing any gear grinding noise during shift.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by sapote View Post

          George, which 4th gear parts you think are damaged? If anything I think it might be the synchro, but OP didn't report hearing any gear grinding noise during shift.
          Actually I was getting occasional grinding going from 3 to 4.

          George - usually ran S4 without lifting.

          Comment


            #6
            With the trans out is there a way to confirm the syncros are gone?

            Comment


              #7
              So trans is out. All the springs seem to be in good shape. I did notice that the SMG actuator had a small leak. Fork was pretty worn where the clutch slave engages it. The speed sensor was leaking fluid through the sensor but I dont think that would cause the 3->4 grind. I am thinking George is correct and the syncros are compromised.

              I spoke to a shop that rebuilds these with beefier syncros. I am leery of replacing the whole box with a used one as all the ones I can find have significantly more mileage on them than mine. Their contention is that the 3/4 gearset sits in the sump of the transmission in the oil and causes the slipping. They actually recommend conventional non-synthetic ATF with regular change intervals to prevent the oil from sticking to the surface of the 3/4 synchro.

              My current plan is to freshen up this box with new springs, actuator, etc. Put a thinner fluid in there (was running MT-LV). And do an event in early November to see if its any better. If not I will likely go down the path of either full pneumatic sequential, or maybe a DCT swap.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by eacmen View Post
                or maybe a DCT swap.
                Only way to do that is with an aftermarket ECU replacing the DME.
                '09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Alpine 330iT
                Instagram @HillPerformanceBimmers
                Email to [email protected]

                Comment

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