RTABs: I broke the installation tool

[ATB88]

EDIT: repurposing this thread about new issue installing the monoball RTABs rather than starting another.

I'm installing SDW monoball RTABs and am using the specific tool that they loan out that allows installation without damage to the monoball.

Both old stock bushing pressed out easily enough.

Install of the passenger side monoball RTAB was rough... but got it in eventually.

Moved on to the driver's side, got it halfway in, and then disaster strikes: I was having to apply so much torque to the press tool that the threaded rod sheared.

The rest of the rod seems recoverable, but I'm not sure what the best course of action here is. I really need the car back on the road by tonight if I can, as I'm getting it aligned tomorrow and leaving for a roadtrip wednesday.

First issue is that one of the flanged nuts used for tightening the tool is stuck on the piece of the rod that snapped off. I don't think I'm getting it off of there. I went to home depot to see if I could find a similar nut, but they actually didn't have anything that size (I believe it's M12x1.25).

Next issue is that I'm afraid if I try again the tool will just break again :/ but I'm really hoping it can survive getting it the last bit of the way in.

Questions:

1. Is it conceivable that I could replace the rod with a similar, or even a stronger one from a local machine shop or something like that? I have no idea where to look for something like this. I'm in Los Angeles, which I think helps me.

2. In replacing the nut, should I be looking for something specific in terms of material to make sure it's up for the job? Again, the torque I'm need to apply to press the bushing in is very high..

3. I bet that the issue is that I didn't clean the RTAB housing mating surface well enough. I'm debating whether it's better for me to just try and get it in the rest of the way, or to press it back out and sand the housing down better?

Man, I was so close to getting it done without incident :/


Original Post:

In the driveway trying to install SDW monoball RTABs today. I've unbolted the rtab pocket from the frame, the shock from the rta, and also unbolted the sway bar. I'm stuck because I can't for the life of me get the RTAB end of the trailing arm low enough to get the center bolt out, nor get the bushing removal tool on it.

I've looked through some DIYs and videos and nobody seems to need to do any more than I've done to get the bushing low enough to work on.. And yet I'm stuck.

Anyone? Sorry, would have posted in the stupid questions thread, but in a hurry so hoping for quick visibility 😬

[Slideways]

Disengage the parking brake

[ATB88]

that did it!! tysm

[ATB88]

thread repurposed with newer more serious issue, smh.

[Slideways]

Those cheap RTAB tools are not very durable and the nut/washer combo is not nearly as good as a tool with a bearing (see front wheel bearing tool). A friend was trying to get rusted RTABs out of his E36 and he bent one of the rods. Luckily, the person, who rented the tool, provided two.

[Cubieman]

When I did the Turner RTAB's I put them in the freezer overnight and used a small amount of graphite grease. I used a generic Chinese E46 press kit off Amazon, was definitely difficult. I remember being surprised the threads didn't strip on the tool.

One issue I had was the bushing kept wanting to go in at a slight angle, it took a few tries on one side.

[ATB88]

When I did the Turner RTAB's I put them in the freezer overnight and used a small amount of graphite grease. I used a generic Chinese E46 press kit off Amazon, was definitely difficult. I remember being surprised the threads didn't strip on the tool.

One issue I had was the bushing kept wanting to go in at a slight angle, it took a few tries on one side.

Yeah, freezing would have been smart. It's halfway in now, so it kind of feels like it'll be just as hard to get it out as it will to get it the rest of the way in :/

I used antiseize on the first bushing, and when it felt as difficult as it did, I used all purpose grease on the second. Is graphite grease meaningfully different/better for this application?

Hopefully I can sort it out after work tonight

[DJAM3]

Get the rental ball joint tool from the parts store to finish the job. Use an impact gun and lube the threaded rod. Might help to heat the RTAB bracket.

[fattycharged]

you need to lubricate the threads or you'll definitely snap that rod. But, i also add some to the exterior of the SDW and clean and lubricate that as well


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Cubieman]

Yeah, freezing would have been smart. It's halfway in now, so it kind of feels like it'll be just as hard to get it out as it will to get it the rest of the way in :/

I used antiseize on the first bushing, and when it felt as difficult as it did, I used all purpose grease on the second. Is graphite grease meaningfully different/better for this application?

Hopefully I can sort it out after work tonight

Nothing really better about graphite grease, I had just read it was a good thing to use for this application.

I believe I put the RTAB'S in the freezer and used MAP gas on the pocket. Who knows how much that helped but if it even helped 10% it felt like I needed it.

[Carbonvert]

I would check if the rod in the loner tool from advanced auto fits. If it does that will be the easiest solution.

I just used syncro’s loaner tool a month ago - I had no issues with it. I did clean up the RTAB housing and used a lot of oil as I pressed it in.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/powerbuilt-tools-loaner-tool-ball-joint-u-joint-service-set-23-piece-648617/9150043-p?product_channel=local&store=4646&adtype=pla&product_channel=local&store_code=4646&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=16404424460&gbraid=0AAAAAD05GhVa4ffu5Jn82zQb5RXS5tqxk

[ATB88]

you need to lubricate the threads or you'll definitely snap that rod. But, i also add some to the exterior of the SDW and clean and lubricate that as well


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeaah I had lubricated the rod with WD40 silicone spray, but it wasn't enough. I also hadn't really thought about the heat generated from the torque and friction.

I would check if the rod in the loner tool from advanced auto fits. If it does that will be the easiest solution.

I just used syncro’s loaner tool a month ago - I had no issues with it. I did clean up the RTAB housing and used a lot of oil as I pressed it in.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/powerbuilt-tools-loaner-tool-ball-joint-u-joint-service-set-23-piece-648617/9150043-p?product_channel=local&store=4646&adtype=pla&prod uct_channel=local&store_code=4646&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad _source=1&gad_campaignid=16404424460&gbraid=0AAAAA D05GhVa4ffu5Jn82zQb5RXS5tqxk

^^This is basically what I ended up doing.

For anyone who ends up in my situation in the future, here's how I got it sorted: I have a generic Chinese bushing/balljoint press kit, and it happens to include a threaded rod of the exact right size for the SDW RTAB tool, and very heavy duty nuts with welded washers to go along with it. Used it with heavy lubrication on the threads (had some 20W50 non-synthetic lying around), and the RTAB went the rest of the way in like butter. Night and day difference from yesterday. I was shocked by how nice the threaded rod in that cheap kit was. Before I realized that I had that kit, I'd gone to several hardware stores trying to find an appropriate replacement rod and couldn't.

Thanks for the suggestions and support, y'all! Car's back together, aligned, and ready for a 2k mile road trip