Some of you will file this DIY under the "duh" category. Pretty much anyone can install wheel studs right? There were some subtle issues with the install of these particular studs that I think warranted some insight.
Here are the studs being installed
Here are their instructions from Bimmerworld
Here are the tools I used:
Step 1 - Remove Old Studs (skip if you are converting from OE bolts)
These instructions and photos are actually from our previous car where the studs were way harder to remove than our current car's studs were.
Since our brakes were removed at the time (way easier with brakes on the car so I don't recommend this approach) I had to use a chain to secure the hub in place while removing the studs.
I used a stud removal tool along with a MAPP Gas Torch to remove the studs (since previous owner used red loctite). I highly recommend the high output torch for this, I had the TS4000 torch and it would not do the job of breaking up the red loctite. Once we got the TS8000 torch head it would only take about 30-45 seconds of applying heat before the loctite was ready to come out.
After applying the heat. Attached the stud removal tool to the ratchet and it should come out with relative ease.
Repeat process for all 20 wheel studs.
Step 2 - Clean Wheel Hub Threads
Since most wheel studs are installed with some form of thread locker, it is a good idea (almost mandatory) to clean the wheel hub threads before installing wheel studs. Note: this was a mandatory step for me. The tolerances on the wheel studs were so tight that they would *not* thread in properly without cleaning the threads first. My first attempt was to use a thread chaser with WD-40, this was a waste of time. The thread chaser did not clean enough out of the threads to get the stud to thread on smoothly. I had to break out the M12x1.5 tap and chase the threads using the tap. This may seem like overkill to some but after chasing the threads with the tap I was able to easily thread the wheel stud into the hub by hand and have it bottom out on the hub. This is also just a good idea to clean the threads to allow the thread locker to form a good solid bond once cured.
If you are hesitant of using a tap to chase the threads, dont be, its a relatively safe process as long as you don't ham fist the tap wrench and force it in there cross-threaded. You *will* know when the tap is threading into the hole correctly. Do not attach the tap to a drill. I REPEAT DO NOT ATTACH THE TAP TO A DRILL. Seems like it will speed up the process until your tap breaks off or you cross thread the wheel hub. As long as you are paying attention, take your time you should not have any issue doing this.
Spray some WD-40 in the hole to collect the debris that is being cleaned out of the threads. If you feel that the tap wrench is binding, just back it off a few turns then start threading it forward again. I found that the front wheel hub threads were way harder to clean out than the rears. There were a couple times I thought there some something wrong, but just pushed through took my time and everything came out OK.
Use shop air (in my case a little pancake compressor) to clean out the threads and clean the dirt off the tap.
Repeat this process for all 20 wheel studs. I sprayed some brake cleaner in there to get the oil off the threads then called it a night to let it dry. I was in no hurry.
Step 3 - Install New Studs
This was more difficult than I thought it was going to be honestly. Read the instructions and saw that Bimmerworld specs these studs to be torqued to 50-80 ft-lb. Didn't seem like a big deal. Until you realize how tight you need to get those jam nuts together to achieve that torque. I decided to target 65 ft-lb, right in the middle of the range. For wheel studs that have a hex-head on them with a lower torque rating the install is going to be much easier. For these its a little more involved.
This time the brakes were installed on the car, so I wedged a piece of wood against the brake pedal to maintain pressure.
First thread the stud in by hand. I would start with the lowest stud hole and move your way up so that the previously installed studs don't get in your way. Then you need to thread on the two provided nuts (finding M12x1.5 nuts that aren't lug nuts is actually quite difficult - glad that BW included them in the kit). There was thread locker already applied to the studs from the factory, looks like blue loctite. If there is no loctite on the studs I would recommend applying a little bit. You do NOT want studs backing out on you.
To achieve the desired torque necessary to jam the two nuts together to achieve 65 ft-lb of torque applied to the stud was not that easy. Used an open ended-wrench to counter-hold the back nut while using the long ratcheting breaker bar to tighten the front nut. Sometimes I had to stand up and put my weight on it to achieve the necessary "jam".
After you jam the two nuts together put your torque wrench on it and tighten down the front stud (the one closest to you). If you notice the back nut turning with you then they are too lose. Go back to the previous step and put more effort into jamming the two nuts together.
Now you need to reverse the process. Make sure to counter hold when removing that front nut, otherwise you may back the stud out while trying to remove that front nut.
Finished product. Only 19 more to go.
All 5 done on one hub. I plan on going back with an enamel paint pen and marking the top of each of the studs near the tip so that if they ever start to back out should be easily noticed without taking the wheel off.
Hope this helps others. Any questions just let me know.
Here are the studs being installed
Here are their instructions from Bimmerworld
Here are the tools I used:
- 2 x 19mm Combination Wrenches
- 2 x 19mm deep well 1/2 drive sockets
- 1/2 Drive Torque Wrench capable of at least 65 ft-lb
- 1/2 Drive 17" Ratchet (basically breaker-bar length ratchet)
- M12x1.5 tap with Tap Wrench
- WD-40 (or cutting fluid)
- Shop air
- 1/2 Drive Stud Removal Tool
- MAPP Gas Torch
Step 1 - Remove Old Studs (skip if you are converting from OE bolts)
These instructions and photos are actually from our previous car where the studs were way harder to remove than our current car's studs were.
Since our brakes were removed at the time (way easier with brakes on the car so I don't recommend this approach) I had to use a chain to secure the hub in place while removing the studs.
I used a stud removal tool along with a MAPP Gas Torch to remove the studs (since previous owner used red loctite). I highly recommend the high output torch for this, I had the TS4000 torch and it would not do the job of breaking up the red loctite. Once we got the TS8000 torch head it would only take about 30-45 seconds of applying heat before the loctite was ready to come out.
After applying the heat. Attached the stud removal tool to the ratchet and it should come out with relative ease.
Repeat process for all 20 wheel studs.
Step 2 - Clean Wheel Hub Threads
Since most wheel studs are installed with some form of thread locker, it is a good idea (almost mandatory) to clean the wheel hub threads before installing wheel studs. Note: this was a mandatory step for me. The tolerances on the wheel studs were so tight that they would *not* thread in properly without cleaning the threads first. My first attempt was to use a thread chaser with WD-40, this was a waste of time. The thread chaser did not clean enough out of the threads to get the stud to thread on smoothly. I had to break out the M12x1.5 tap and chase the threads using the tap. This may seem like overkill to some but after chasing the threads with the tap I was able to easily thread the wheel stud into the hub by hand and have it bottom out on the hub. This is also just a good idea to clean the threads to allow the thread locker to form a good solid bond once cured.
If you are hesitant of using a tap to chase the threads, dont be, its a relatively safe process as long as you don't ham fist the tap wrench and force it in there cross-threaded. You *will* know when the tap is threading into the hole correctly. Do not attach the tap to a drill. I REPEAT DO NOT ATTACH THE TAP TO A DRILL. Seems like it will speed up the process until your tap breaks off or you cross thread the wheel hub. As long as you are paying attention, take your time you should not have any issue doing this.
Spray some WD-40 in the hole to collect the debris that is being cleaned out of the threads. If you feel that the tap wrench is binding, just back it off a few turns then start threading it forward again. I found that the front wheel hub threads were way harder to clean out than the rears. There were a couple times I thought there some something wrong, but just pushed through took my time and everything came out OK.
Use shop air (in my case a little pancake compressor) to clean out the threads and clean the dirt off the tap.
Repeat this process for all 20 wheel studs. I sprayed some brake cleaner in there to get the oil off the threads then called it a night to let it dry. I was in no hurry.
Step 3 - Install New Studs
This was more difficult than I thought it was going to be honestly. Read the instructions and saw that Bimmerworld specs these studs to be torqued to 50-80 ft-lb. Didn't seem like a big deal. Until you realize how tight you need to get those jam nuts together to achieve that torque. I decided to target 65 ft-lb, right in the middle of the range. For wheel studs that have a hex-head on them with a lower torque rating the install is going to be much easier. For these its a little more involved.
This time the brakes were installed on the car, so I wedged a piece of wood against the brake pedal to maintain pressure.
First thread the stud in by hand. I would start with the lowest stud hole and move your way up so that the previously installed studs don't get in your way. Then you need to thread on the two provided nuts (finding M12x1.5 nuts that aren't lug nuts is actually quite difficult - glad that BW included them in the kit). There was thread locker already applied to the studs from the factory, looks like blue loctite. If there is no loctite on the studs I would recommend applying a little bit. You do NOT want studs backing out on you.
To achieve the desired torque necessary to jam the two nuts together to achieve 65 ft-lb of torque applied to the stud was not that easy. Used an open ended-wrench to counter-hold the back nut while using the long ratcheting breaker bar to tighten the front nut. Sometimes I had to stand up and put my weight on it to achieve the necessary "jam".
After you jam the two nuts together put your torque wrench on it and tighten down the front stud (the one closest to you). If you notice the back nut turning with you then they are too lose. Go back to the previous step and put more effort into jamming the two nuts together.
Now you need to reverse the process. Make sure to counter hold when removing that front nut, otherwise you may back the stud out while trying to remove that front nut.
Finished product. Only 19 more to go.
All 5 done on one hub. I plan on going back with an enamel paint pen and marking the top of each of the studs near the tip so that if they ever start to back out should be easily noticed without taking the wheel off.
Hope this helps others. Any questions just let me know.
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