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SMG Pump Relocation - Actuator Bleed Failure

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    SMG Pump Relocation - Actuator Bleed Failure

    Hello -

    I’ve successfully performed an SMG pump relocation in the past on the M3 I recently parted ways with, so figured I’d tackle another relocation on the Imola since I had a few days this summer were the SMG COG light illuminated and went into limp mode. I replaced the GPS a few months ago when I lost the ability to shift gears after some aggressive driving.

    I went through the old pump removal and installed a brand new SMG pump with MLR’s expanded expansion tank. Everything wired up as expected and I started performing the actuator bleed with the pump horizontal and the CSL reservoir hanging above the pump.

    I got through ~10 minutes of the 16 minute bleed process and was met with an error. No problem, I’ll just bleed again. The process errored again and I kept getting the following:

    “Not possible to reach end position (5th gear)”

    This would occur with ~7 minutes left on the countdown at the following stage:

    “selector angle (WW) airing” right after “Bleeding the gearbox actuator! pressure increase for shift path (gear) airing”

    Mind you, previous “selector angle (WW) airing” stages were fine and didn’t error out.










    I tried to perform the actuator bleed at least 6-7 times and was met with failure approximately the same stage as above.

    The car powers on, the engine bounces at idle as the SMG gearbox flickers between 6th and 2nd, or if moved to Neutral it bounces between 6th and N. I tried to manually shift to each gear in INPA with failure except 6th gear.

    Everything is torqued and all my wiring is fine (I think). You can hear the pump actuator working normally when you open the driver’s side door or if you out the keg in the ignition. Pressure is able to build up to 70 (85 during the test with automatic shutoff).

    sapote George Hill oceansize 0-60motorsports any thoughts? Or anyone else with some ideas?

    Would the GPS die after a few months? It was a brand new replacement.

    David
    Last edited by davidinnyc; 09-23-2025, 06:41 PM.

    #2
    When you relocate the SMG pump assembly it's reoriented pointed upward I believe compared to the stock orientation which is lateral.

    From my understanding in some cases this can cause bleed issues in regards to air pockets in the system when it's oriented upward.

    You may want to try moving the assembly to be lateral. Maybe unbolting it from its bracket and having something hold it while it lays lateral and then perform your bleed procedures that way first. Then once everything's bled properly then bolt it back into place

    Comment


      #3
      Has the car been sitting for a while? actuator knuckle on the gearbox​ can seize up. Does sound like possible GPS, but since you replaced I doubt it. That knuckle is trans out to get to. You may want to try another five or so bleeds. I’ve seen reports of people doing like 20 and then it works.

      3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by nextelbuddy View Post
        When you relocate the SMG pump assembly it's reoriented pointed upward I believe compared to the stock orientation which is lateral.

        From my understanding in some cases this can cause bleed issues in regards to air pockets in the system when it's oriented upward.

        You may want to try moving the assembly to be lateral. Maybe unbolting it from its bracket and having something hold it while it lays lateral and then perform your bleed procedures that way first. Then once everything's bled properly then bolt it back into place
        I actually have it rigged like this!

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by oceansize View Post
          Has the car been sitting for a while? actuator knuckle on the gearbox​ can seize up. Does sound like possible GPS, but since you replaced I doubt it. That knuckle is trans out to get to. You may want to try another five or so bleeds. I've seen reports of people doing like 20 and then it works.

          https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/25112229793/
          I actually just drove it all last week and yesterday - everything was working just fine, so of course it's my own created issue, naturally.

          I'm going to keep trying. I also just read that I need to run the bleed with the handbrake off… going to try that. If that's the issue for the gear selector not working I'm going to kick myself.


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by oceansize View Post
            Has the car been sitting for a while? actuator knuckle on the gearbox​ can seize up. Does sound like possible GPS, but since you replaced I doubt it. That knuckle is trans out to get to. You may want to try another five or so bleeds. I’ve seen reports of people doing like 20 and then it works.

            https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/25112229793/
            Any idea if the 20-bleed folks had errors or breaks in the procedure? I’m assuming yes and not just people running the procedure multiple times because they thought they could hear air in the system…

            Comment


              #7
              Check your gearbox springs and also There Must be air in your lines. I see you have been doing the procedure on the bench with the pump in the correct orientation.

              I have had this issue and it took multiple bleed sessions to get it working. A GPS failure in general is not common and a new one failing, i doubt it....

              Comment


                #8
                Are you *sure* you mapped the hydraulic lines to their correct pipes on the trans? To me it sounds like the push/pull hydraulic circuit is working, but the tilt one is not.

                I just bled a *completely* dry system today and it only took two bleed cycles.

                Make sure your battery is healthy and charged fully.

                Does bleeding the clutch work without error?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by eacmen View Post
                  Are you *sure* you mapped the hydraulic lines to their correct pipes on the trans? To me it sounds like the push/pull hydraulic circuit is working, but the tilt one is not.

                  I just bled a *completely* dry system today and it only took two bleed cycles.

                  Make sure your battery is healthy and charged fully.

                  Does bleeding the clutch work without error?
                  Well… now I’m going to need to triple check the mapping. The colors on my pipes have faded but I connected them from left to right as I pulled them from the old pump. Is there a diagram that shows which of the four is which color?

                  F2 on the adaptations page (clutch bleed) works just fine! Nice green screen after 3 minutes or so.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Quick question, when you added chf11s, did you fill the pump reservoir with fluid first before connecting the expansion tank? You might still have a loot of air in the system

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Irhase46m3 View Post
                      Quick question, when you added chf11s, did you fill the pump reservoir with fluid first before connecting the expansion tank? You might still have a loot of air in the system
                      I did not. I’m going to start over later today and see if I can incorporate all the notes here and find some success. Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        This is the diagram I found:

                        Comment


                          #13
                          So… decided to just hang out at home and try to solve this.

                          I pulled the lines from the new pump and just used my “old”, original SMG pump unit and followed eacmen advise and filled the SMG tank up until it overflowed, turned it left, right, forward, backward, filled some more, then put the SMG reservoir tube in and filled that. I moved the reservoir around and could hear bubbles coming out slowly, so I just kept moving the SMG pump and the reservoir around a bunch until the bubbles stopped. I proceeded with the bleeds.

                          F1 - no errors on first attempt
                          F2 - no errors
                          F3 - gets through the process but I can't get the car to crank when asked to start engine

                          Edit: even on a trickle charger my battery somehow depleted to 8V... currently being charged to see if I can complete F3. I tried it a second time and it was successful but couldn't crank, then a third time gave me a "Reverse window is too small" error.

                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                          Last edited by davidinnyc; 09-24-2025, 09:29 AM.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            SMG hates a less than good battery so yes definitely get if fully charged, the fact that you completed is a good sign.

                            Also this error "window is too small" can be that knuckle I mentioned earlier. Just something to keep in mind if things continue to go south.
                            3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Okay - I charged the battery until it read upwards of 11.5V in INPA and went for it.

                              F3 - got the the car to crank, held the pedal down, failed I’m assuming on the last step to close out the procedure. I put the pump in the drug bin and took the car for a spin… everything seemed to shift just fine. I do hear the SMG whine now (I’m assuming you can’t when it’s mounted right next to the engine block) but other than that I’ll try F3 again to see if it clears. If not, car seems to drive okay. I do have the COG light, though.

                              Will report back with any findings ASAP.

                              Comment

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