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Powerflex poly diff bushing failure

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    #31
    Originally posted by SteelGreyM View Post

    Just starting to crack but not as bad as the rear. Would estimate complete failure within another 100 or so miles of hard driving

    Should be noted that I'm talking 3 years and less than 3000 miles
    Fack, I have one in my car with no miles on it (long story) and I was trying to justify leaving it. In spite of what literally everyone says lol.

    What’s the best tool to install an OEM front diff mount with the subframe in the car? I know the diff needs to come out to make room.
    http://www.natehasslerphoto.com
    '99 M3, Hellrot/Sand Beige, slicktop
    '01 M3, Imola/black

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      #32
      Originally posted by Nate047 View Post

      Fack, I have one in my car with no miles on it (long story) and I was trying to justify leaving it. In spite of what literally everyone says lol.

      What's the best tool to install an OEM front diff mount with the subframe in the car? I know the diff needs to come out to make room.
      Isn't your car still apart anyways?

      RTAB bushing tool is supposed to do the trick. I'm about to do it now just waiting for parts to arrive. Will update you

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        #33
        Originally posted by Nate047 View Post

        Fack, I have one in my car with no miles on it (long story) and I was trying to justify leaving it. In spite of what literally everyone says lol.

        What’s the best tool to install an OEM front diff mount with the subframe in the car? I know the diff needs to come out to make room.
        You need to take the cover off. No way around it. And having a press make the change a breeze.

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          #34
          Originally posted by maupineda View Post

          You need to take the cover off. No way around it. And having a press make the change a breeze.
          RTAB tool and some silicone lubricant made this rather pain free. Took me an hour to press all 3 in.




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            #35
            Originally posted by Obioban View Post
            Yep.

            Poly/solid diff mounts probably have THE worst ratio of nhv/performance gain this side of a muffler delete. Makes no sense for a car that sees any street use.
            It is not so much the volume of noise. It is a VERY annoying noise to hear constantly.

            Poly is always useless. If you want less deflection and will accept more noise, a solid bushing isn’t any louder than poly. So why choose poly to get more noise and still have something that deflects?

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              #36
              Originally posted by SteelGreyM View Post

              RTAB tool and some silicone lubricant made this rather pain free. Took me an hour to press all 3 in.




              Ok so you did it without removing the diff cover? That’s good. Which tool is that, BimmerWorld?

              Yes my car is apart right now and I could do this job pretty easily. But I'm very tight on money right now, and I’ve overspent and lost so much on this car already. The tool, new bushings and diff fluid is a couple hundred bucks vs. just bolt it back together with what already have, and cross the bridge later if/when the bushing fails.
              http://www.natehasslerphoto.com
              '99 M3, Hellrot/Sand Beige, slicktop
              '01 M3, Imola/black

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                #37
                Originally posted by Nate047 View Post

                Ok so you did it without removing the diff cover? That's good. Which tool is that, BimmerWorld?

                Yes my car is apart right now and I could do this job pretty easily. But I'm very tight on money right now, and I've overspent and lost so much on this car already. The tool, new bushings and diff fluid is a couple hundred bucks vs. just bolt it back together with what already have, and cross the bridge later if/when the bushing fails.
                I've heard of these tools breaking so I got it from FCP. Honestly just rent a bushing tool from the auto parts store it should work just fine.

                And as far as doing the job now or waiting till it fails? You're standing in front of a burning house and I'm offering you fire insurance on it lol

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by SteelGreyM View Post

                  RTAB tool and some silicone lubricant made this rather pain free. Took me an hour to press all 3 in.




                  My bad, meant to say the diff. I did take the cover off as I had the diff rebuilt and using the hydro press made it a 5min job per bushing.

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                    #39
                    Originally posted by Nate047 View Post

                    Ok so you did it without removing the diff cover? That’s good. Which tool is that, BimmerWorld?

                    Yes my car is apart right now and I could do this job pretty easily. But I'm very tight on money right now, and I’ve overspent and lost so much on this car already. The tool, new bushings and diff fluid is a couple hundred bucks vs. just bolt it back together with what already have, and cross the bridge later if/when the bushing fails.
                    If you send me the cover and bushings I will press them for you. Just the shipping forth and back to the Bay Area.

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                      #40
                      Well I've pretty much got everything back together however I was never able to torque the rear diff bolts down all the way. The body of the car is in the way too much and not even my smallest ratchet will fit on there with the e14 socket. Anyone have tips for me ?

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by SteelGreyM View Post
                        I was never able to torque the rear diff bolts down all the way.
                        Is that what happened when you installed the Powerflex bushings?

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                          #42
                          Originally posted by 1000hp View Post
                          Is that what happened when you installed the Powerflex bushings?
                          No those come with a hex head I was easily able to torque them down. The stock ones are e14 reverse torx

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                            #43
                            Originally posted by SteelGreyM View Post

                            No those come with a hex head I was easily able to torque them down. The stock ones are e14 reverse torx
                            Socket caps and a wrench:

                            3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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                              #44
                              Originally posted by oceansize View Post
                              Beautiful. Heading there now

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Originally posted by oceansize View Post
                                Can you torque with those though? Crow’s foot?
                                http://www.natehasslerphoto.com
                                '99 M3, Hellrot/Sand Beige, slicktop
                                '01 M3, Imola/black

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