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Topside or Bottomside Reinforcement First?

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    Topside or Bottomside Reinforcement First?

    Hi all, I wanted to ask a quick question. I have the opportunity to get a rear strut bar very similar to the RE RACP Brace for a very good price, and I was curious if I should install it now, while I haven't done bottom side reinforcements yet, or wait until after I finish the bottom? Thank you!

    #2
    Most ppl do the bottom first but I don’t think it really matters as long as you eventually do the bottom. The brace will help prevent flex so it could help reduce any existing cracks from getting worse.

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      #3
      I did the topside first on mine just because I don't have a lift, so it was easier to do the topside, and then coordinate to borrow a lift and do the bottom while I do the subframe refresh and diff.
      2003.5 Mystic/Blk - El Diablo, Coilovers, CMP Reinforcement, 2x OE Res. Section 1. - The new project
      '95 M3 - 800whp, 2jz, 6-speed, MS3x, Tilton, Large Case, etc.. - gone.
      '11 X5d - Potholed, Tuned daily rig

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        #4
        As long as you can remove and doesn’t hinder doing more. You can just do the easier top. It will reduce flex.
        BUT..almost all these top Shock Tower ones don’t address the front mounting points. And the front right is one of the first to go. So bottom side plates (and new mounts) is a good idea.
        6MT SLICKTOP - OE CSL Wheels - OE CSL Brakes - CSL Rack - CSL Trunk - CSL Diffuser - AA Tune - AA Pulleys- AS 40% SSK - 4.10 Motorsport Diff - Bilstein PSS9s - H&R Swaybars - CSL Lip - Gruppe M CF Intake - Supersprint - M Track Mode

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          #5
          I was planning on doing my bottom side soon, but I don't have the time till the spring. I have a shop lined up locally ready to do it in the spring but, if I could find a welder and lift thats close to me I could easily do it myself way sooner. Its good to hear that putting the brace in won't do any damage.

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            #6
            Originally posted by old///MFanatic View Post
            As long as you can remove and doesn't hinder doing more. You can just do the easier top. It will reduce flex.
            BUT..almost all these top Shock Tower ones don't address the front mounting points. And the front right is one of the first to go. So bottom side plates (and new mounts) is a good idea.
            That's not entirely true.
            If the rear brace absorbs most of the torsional force exerted on the subframe by stiffening it, the load on the front subframe mount is reduced.
            Still, doing the front mounts too is a plus and a good peace of mind.
            2004 E46 M3 • TiAG / LSB nappa

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              #7
              Originally posted by Flow View Post
              That's not entirely true.
              If the rear brace absorbs most of the torsional force exerted on the subframe by stiffening it, the load on the front subframe mount is reduced.
              Still, doing the front mounts too is a plus and a good peace of mind.
              Yeah I was actually going to make a note of that. It does keep much of the rocking down. But it still flexes from the torque, and stock ~20 yr old rubber “subframe” bushings probably shot enough more flex there too. Front right and rear left are first mounts and areas that crack. And at this point there’s likely hairline cracks already.
              But true underside plates don’t directly help the side rail separation either. But I have found those much less common than the frt Right/rr Left RACP at the mounting receivers.
              Last edited by old///MFanatic; 10-20-2025, 02:43 PM.
              6MT SLICKTOP - OE CSL Wheels - OE CSL Brakes - CSL Rack - CSL Trunk - CSL Diffuser - AA Tune - AA Pulleys- AS 40% SSK - 4.10 Motorsport Diff - Bilstein PSS9s - H&R Swaybars - CSL Lip - Gruppe M CF Intake - Supersprint - M Track Mode

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