S54 Vanos Info Thread

[sapote]

I do use a punch to insert into hub holes for inspecting. Cams don’t move after tightening first few screws accessible. It’s only after a full rotation that it’s slightly off.

What to inspect on the hub? The hub should turn CCW during bolting down the vanos module.

"Cams don’t move after tightening first few screws accessible. It’s only after a full rotation that it’s slightly off." I am not clear what screws you're talking about; vanos module bolts or the hubs bolts?

"However the videos only don’t appear to need that step." What video? There are thousands of video floating in the internet.

" It’s slightly off after 15 tries." How did you know it's off? Was this after bolting down the vanos module and turning the crank a few turns and checked with the cam bridge?

Be more specific to your question and we are sure can figure this out.

[sapote]

When checking the timing you definitely need to rock the cams to make sure they are at full retard.

When checking the cams timing with the bridge tool, either the pin fits the cams holes or not. Why the need to rock the cams at this step (it sounds more like to set the cams timing and not to check their timing)?

[Cubieman]

I would think having a bit of oil or assembly lube on all moving parts would be nice to account for the brief moment before oil pressure builds.

[eacmen]

Is having the diaphragm spring and washer lubricated ok install an issue or should I clean them with brake cleaner?


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IMO should be fine. I used a little engine oil when doing mine.

[LatinSkllz]

Is having the diaphragm spring and washer lubricated ok install an issue or should I clean them with brake cleaner?


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[eacmen]

I do use a punch to insert into hub holes for inspecting. Cams don’t move after tightening first few screws accessible. It’s only after a full rotation that it’s slightly off. Beisan say to rock the cams back into full retard mode further in the steps which I haven’t done so maybe that’s it. However the videos only don’t appear to need that step.


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Also when trying to visually observe a degree of movement you might need something longer than a punch to see it. I use a 24 inch screwdriver and an 18 inch dowel.

[eacmen]

I do use a punch to insert into hub holes for inspecting. Cams don’t move after tightening first few screws accessible. It’s only after a full rotation that it’s slightly off. Beisan say to rock the cams back into full retard mode further in the steps which I haven’t done so maybe that’s it. However the videos only don’t appear to need that step.


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When checking the timing you definitely need to rock the cams to make sure they are at full retard. With the vanos attached the cams might be hard to get to full retard.

There are some neat tricks in this video series;

https://youtu.be/7xh7aJl1OxQ

[LatinSkllz]

During the step where you are tightening down the VANOS to the head I usually install a long screwdriver or dowel into the cam holes. This is not to lock the cams in place, but rather make it easy to see if the cams are moving while bolting up the VANOS.

I do use a punch to insert into hub holes for inspecting. Cams don’t move after tightening first few screws accessible. It’s only after a full rotation that it’s slightly off. Beisan say to rock the cams back into full retard mode further in the steps which I haven’t done so maybe that’s it. However the videos only don’t appear to need that step.


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[eacmen]

Man. I’m trying to follow beisan, TIS, and other misc threads but still struggling to keep timing after pretension. It’s slightly off after 15 tries. I feel like I have to really lock down the hub for it not to cause movement on camshaft. I make sure that cams are at TDC with alignment bridge before starting pretension, found them sweet spot on both hubs…

Am I missing something? The videos make it looks like the screws aren’t tightened as much.

I did cost the cup/washer behind hub with assembly oil but don’t think that would cause an issue would it? I guess it could be an issue if it’s causing the hub to slide a little.


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During the step where you are tightening down the VANOS to the head I usually install a long screwdriver or dowel into the cam holes. This is not to lock the cams in place, but rather make it easy to see if the cams are moving while bolting up the VANOS.

[LatinSkllz]

Man. I’m trying to follow beisan, TIS, and other misc threads but still struggling to keep timing after pretension. It’s slightly off after 15 tries. I feel like I have to really lock down the hub for it not to cause movement on camshaft. I make sure that cams are at TDC with alignment bridge before starting pretension, found them sweet spot on both hubs…

Am I missing something? The videos make it looks like the screws aren’t tightened as much.

I did cost the cup/washer behind hub with assembly oil but don’t think that would cause an issue would it? I guess it could be an issue if it’s causing the hub to slide a little.


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[cakM3]

Ian, this thread should be made into a sticky...

[cakM3]

I would think for a thread that has lots of useful information regarding VANOS maintenance that this thread would be a sticky. Surprised it has not been....

[Cubieman]

Yeah there really isn't that much space between the head and chain with the sprocket in place.

Even if you do manage to sneak it past the chain, you'll risk having your brand new guide slip out of your hands and drop all the way down to the oil pan. Much worse of a job to take off the pan than to retime the engine.

Your absolutely right, I forgot just how little space there was looking back at some photos.

[OEM3]

Thanks y'all! I promise I won't make 5 threads 😄

[heinzboehmer]

Even with the tensioner removed? I guess it would be quite tight.

He should be fine as long as when final timing doesn't go 100% according to the internet instructions he doesn't make 5 threads about it like other people have...

Yeah there really isn't that much space between the head and chain with the sprocket in place.

Even if you do manage to sneak it past the chain, you'll risk having your brand new guide slip out of your hands and drop all the way down to the oil pan. Much worse of a job to take off the pan than to retime the engine.