S54 Vanos Info Thread

[Cubieman]

I don't think you can. Chain has to come off of at least the exhaust sprocket so that there's enough room.

Even with the tensioner removed? I guess it would be quite tight.

He should be fine as long as when final timing doesn't go 100% according to the internet instructions he doesn't make 5 threads about it like other people have...

[heinzboehmer]

I *think* you can replace the upper guide w/o removing the hub bolts (thus losing timing), but you mentioned the S62 diaphragms, to install those you must remove the hub bolts.

I don't think you can. Chain has to come off of at least the exhaust sprocket so that there's enough room.

[Cubieman]

Roger, I'll call Raj @ Beisan to see how quick he can turnaround a disk.

Does just replacing the upper chain guide avoid the potential issues (I assume associated with timing)? I see Beisan has it as part of the rattle procedure

I *think* you can replace the upper guide w/o removing the hub bolts (thus losing timing), but you mentioned the S62 diaphragms, to install those you must remove the hub bolts.

[sapote]

Or you can just confirm the dimensions and bore of the machined disk match up with your stock disk.

It's not easy to measure the pump piston bores on the new disk to match with the old pistons. And also the center shaft hole dimension too. They are all critical dimension to have good oil pressure.
I agreed with Caubie that it's best to keep the stock disk and fre-drill new smaller holes.

[OEM3]

Have your original disc re-drilled it possible, this is a critical that you have proper fitment and your original disc has its own wear pattern etc. , and good to go on everything else. I also agree with skipping the anti-rattle, I did it just because but it just introduces more potential issues than it solves imo.

Roger, I'll call Raj @ Beisan to see how quick he can turnaround a disk.

Does just replacing the upper chain guide avoid the potential issues (I assume associated with timing)? I see Beisan has it as part of the rattle procedure

[jet_dogg]

Or you can just confirm the dimensions and bore of the machined disk match up with your stock disk.

[Cubieman]

I'm about to place a Besian order. Is my logic sound?
-Currently at 75k miles
-I drive ~3k miles per year
-The work will be done by a friend of a friend BMW mechanic for cash on a weekend



Solenoid Coil Pack = NO. This job seems easy enough that I could do it myself in the future. Why replace something non-catastrophic that may never fail during my ownership?

Sealing Plate Repair Kit = YES.

Seals Repair Kit = YES.

Rattle Repair Kit + Tools = NO. After adding the S62 diaphragm springs, this seems like a lot to spend to prevent a harmless noise that may never present itself.

Oil Pump Disk = YES.

Exhaust Upper Chain Guide = YES.

Exhaust Sprocket Hub = NO.

Have your original disc re-drilled it possible, this is a critical that you have proper fitment and your original disc has its own wear pattern etc. , and good to go on everything else. I also agree with skipping the anti-rattle, I did it just because but it just introduces more potential issues than it solves imo.

[OEM3]

I'm about to place a Besian order. Is my logic sound?
-Currently at 75k miles
-I drive ~3k miles per year
-The work will be done by a friend of a friend BMW mechanic for cash on a weekend



Solenoid Coil Pack = NO. This job seems easy enough that I could do it myself in the future. Why replace something non-catastrophic that may never fail during my ownership?

Sealing Plate Repair Kit = YES.

Seals Repair Kit = YES.

Rattle Repair Kit + Tools = NO. After adding the S62 diaphragm springs, this seems like a lot to spend to prevent a harmless noise that may never present itself.

Oil Pump Disk = YES.

Exhaust Upper Chain Guide = YES.

Exhaust Sprocket Hub = NO.

[sapote]

WOLFN8TR;
Vanos won't work properly if this isn't done?

I guess the real question is if I didn't learn about this sweet tooth before I did the vanos updates and the car runs great should I pull the vanos off and find that sweet tooth?

The working range of the VANOS is shorter than the whole travel of the splines, and so don't worry if it works for you. I never care for the sweet tooth. As long as when the VANOS was bolted down to the head and the hub had enough slot range to turn before you torqued down the 6 hub bolts, then it was fine. If the slots were not enough then bolting down the VANOS would cause the cam to turn and the bridge pin would let you know it failed the test.

[WOLFN8TR]

WOLFN8TR;
Vanos won't work properly if this isn't done?

I guess the real question is if I didn't learn about this sweet tooth before I did the vanos updates and the car runs great should I pull the vanos off and find that sweet tooth?

I didn't say it wouldn't work, I prefer having the full range of the spline. If it passes the Vanos test and runs fine your good.

[cfdfireman1]

WOLFN8TR;
Vanos won't work properly if this isn't done?

I guess the real question is if I didn't learn about this sweet tooth before I did the vanos updates and the car runs great should I pull the vanos off and find that sweet tooth?

[WOLFN8TR]

Per Raj @ Beisan the sweet tooth is BS ya don't need to do this step..

Wether it’s “BS” or not that step takes just a few minutes. I personally want full range of the spline.

Thanks for your contribution to the community. 🤓

[cfdfireman1]

Per Raj @ Beisan the sweet tooth is BS ya don't need to do this step..

[Titaniu//M]

Is there anything else needed? I appreciate the offer but im impatient and want the car back on the road.

All good, the linked toolkit is equivalent to an OEM timing bridge and crank pin. Look at the Beisan instructions if you are using their repair kit for other tools needed.

[sapote]

Is there anything else needed? I appreciate the offer but im impatient and want the car back on the road.

I didn't use any special tools; just the correct size drill bit for the pin and a carpenter square. I had posted this method somewhere before.