Opened engine to find my worst nightmare... advice needed.

[SteelGreyM]

I think there's damage that may ruin the block you haven't noticed-- it looks like the blow by from the failed head gasket has marred the space between the cylinders (where the gasket failed). Head side, also.

I noticed that. I know bmw says zero machine work allowed on s54 but It seems people are fine with less than .3 mm of work done. Any more than that and I’ll need either a new head or block.

gonna refer to my machine shop to verify all these concerns of course.

[Arith2]

Where are you located? I have plenty of time on my hands and just went through and engine swap recently. I'd be more than happy to help. I'm around the Orlando FL area.

Before I swapped I tore it apart and inspected everything. There is a process to determine if there's more cracks on the block but really, swapping the engine is probably going to be cheaper and easier for you. You can sell so much of your engine since it doesn't have a piston that exploded but just some shards. This is much less of a headache than if metal circulated through the oil system, go spat into the intake, and throught the engine bay. It could be much worse so don't worry. This can be fixed whether it's a new engine or a simple rebuild.

[Obioban]

I think there's damage that may ruin the block you haven't noticed-- it looks like the blow by from the failed head gasket has marred the space between the cylinders (where the gasket failed). Head side, also.

[SteelGreyM]

I'd also recommend removing the front end. If is super simple. you basically remove the bumper, and headlights, then the radiator support removes with the AC condensor and fan. It will save many headaches.

I thought the AC lines were rigid? Or are there a few soft ones that will allow it to move around?

[cozmo kraemer]

I'd also recommend removing the front end. If is super simple. you basically remove the bumper, and headlights, then the radiator support removes with the AC condensor and fan. It will save many headaches.

[SteelGreyM]

It's actually pretty easy to pull the front end apart, and allows for a much cleaner/easier removal/install. Plus, it allows you to really clean everything up. I've done this on my daughters E46, as well as other cars many times to R&R engine. It's more work, but it really makes the R&R much easier. Unless you can lay the AC components off to the side, and you may be able to I just can't remember, you will need to drain/recharge the AC. I just always drained the AC, as I don't like stuff hanging around.

Back in the 70's I had an old VW Beetle that I hot-rodded, and I had the rear "apron panel" held on by screws so I could roll a floor jack under the engine with car on the ground and just roll the engine right out the back, so I've followed similar philosophy with other cars to make it as easy as possible....

This is just my personal opinion.

I might be able to get away with unbolting the AC condenser? from the engine and slide it out. I’ll see once I get in there. Again thanks for the help. Ill
keep this thread updated as I keep going. Today’s agenda is to take apart the head, and remove front bumper and get ready to pull engine. If it can be pulled today that’ll be a success.

as far as pulling engine the current plan is this.

-drain oil
-remove under body aluminum plate.
- unbolt exhaust at midpipe
-disconnect driveshaft from guibo
remove front end.
-disconnect misc electronics and stuff.

that’s all I got for now...

[Flat-Six]

It's actually pretty easy to pull the front end apart, and allows for a much cleaner/easier removal/install. Plus, it allows you to really clean everything up. I've done this on my daughters E46, as well as other cars many times to R&R engine. It's more work, but it really makes the R&R much easier. Unless you can lay the AC components off to the side, and you may be able to I just can't remember, you will need to drain/recharge the AC. I just always drained the AC, as I don't like stuff hanging around.

Back in the 70's I had an old VW Beetle that I hot-rodded, and I had the rear "apron panel" held on by screws so I could roll a floor jack under the engine with car on the ground and just roll the engine right out the back, so I've followed similar philosophy with other cars to make it as easy as possible....

This is just my personal opinion.

[SteelGreyM]

There's a bracket to lift from at the back of the block. You could make a bracket for the front using some metal and a couple head bolts. Or you could also just put the water pump, thermostat housing, and front bracket back on.

If I ever need to pull my engine there's no way I'm doing it without pulling the front end off. It'll take maybe three hours total to take the front end off and put it back on, but it'll also give you a ton more room and possibly save you a lot of headaches.

didn’t know about the back bracket! I could also get a nice strap around the bell housing...

Would pulling the front end off would require messing with the AC lines and stuff? Honeslty I have no clue what I’m doing with that

[SteelGreyM]

Ha! How can it be crazy for recommending that you spend some time analyzing your damage by a professional before going out and just buying a new block?

It was a joke man. Meaning like this might actually work.

honeslty. I think it’s high enough I may be able to get away with it. I’m pulling the block either way. So I’m gonna bring it to a machine shop and get their opinion. I genuinely appreciate the input brotha. Sorry it came off that way :/

[Flat-Six]

You guys are crazy lmao.

Ha! How can it be crazy for recommending that you spend some time analyzing your damage by a professional before going out and just buying a new block?

[heinzboehmer]

This might be a silly question but how would you guys recommend removing my block? The head and the engine lifting bracket is off the car...

I was thinking just pull the front end off and slide it out with the trans right? Since there is no support bracket up top should I like... tie ratchet traps around my engine and into the crane hook?

There's a bracket to lift from at the back of the block. You could make a bracket for the front using some metal and a couple head bolts. Or you could also just put the water pump, thermostat housing, and front bracket back on.

If I ever need to pull my engine there's no way I'm doing it without pulling the front end off. It'll take maybe three hours total to take the front end off and put it back on, but it'll also give you a ton more room and possibly save you a lot of headaches.

[Dash1]

That looks like more damage than just pitting from a blown head gasket. Those look like actual nicks from impacts by a foreign object.

[SteelGreyM]

This might be a silly question but how would you guys recommend removing my block? The head and the engine lifting bracket is off the car...

I was thinking just pull the front end off and slide it out with the trans right? Since there is no support bracket up top should I like... tie ratchet traps around my engine and into the crane hook?

[SteelGreyM]

Good advice. In addition, pull the engine apart for thorough inspection, take the block/head/pistons to a (quality) machine shop, have them inspect. Chip may be above the sealing area and just needs a hone. If it were me, I would not be rushing out to buy a new block, before you know exactly what you have, and it's really hard to determine with pictures. You may be able to rebuild what you have and come out with a better motor.

You guys are crazy lmao.

Im gonna pull the engine and go to a machine ship before buying a new block. I guess they will have the best advice as far as all this is concerned. If they are confident that this engine can be re-honed and still run perfectly, I will do it.

As far as pistons... I will only need to get two damaged ones because they are balanced right? Or do I need to get all 6? Damaged piston is #1 so I should get #1 and #6 right?

[Flat-Six]

Here is a ramble for your consideration... That chip in the cylinder wall, if it is above the 2nd piston ring’s sealing point against the cylinder wall @ TDC, the oil control ring will be properly shielded against hot combustion gas, which is what you want. The top two rings seal the combustion gases. If the oil control ring isn’t damaged, that’s good. I’m guessing just replace the beat up piston with a good used one. Knock down the sharp high spots on the head where it’s beat up, install a new head gasket, bolt it back up, and this is quite possibly the most minimum & ultra cheap way to repair your engine. If it explodes after a year, at least you’ll have a year to save up for a good replacement engine. 😁

Good advice. In addition, pull the engine apart for thorough inspection, take the block/head/pistons to a (quality) machine shop, have them inspect. Chip may be above the sealing area and just needs a hone. If it were me, I would not be rushing out to buy a new block, before you know exactly what you have, and it's really hard to determine with pictures. You may be able to rebuild what you have and come out with a better motor.