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Stripped oil pan bolt M6 20mm

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    Stripped oil pan bolt M6 20mm

    I managed to strip one of the ~20 M6x1 20mm bolts that go around the oil pan. Unfortunately the location is tight (driver side rear corner, by dipstick), so I think a helicoil would be a challenge. Anyone have any luck going a different route?

    I push it all the way in and it will catch, but won't tighten. Likely will try a 25mm bolt first. It is a through hole, so maybe something creative?

    #2
    A nut on top?
    E46 ///M3 • 12/2002 • phönix-gelb • 6MT
    E39 ///M5 • 12/1998 • avus-blau • 6MT
    E60 ///M5 • 11/2006 • saphir-schwarz • 6MT

    Contact e-mail -> jasper (at) dentmparts.nl
    D&T M Parts -> dentmparts.com -> used euro parts for M vehicles

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      #3
      It's the circled one. I'm being told on the E46 M3 Owners group on FB that this is one of the three that is longer (25 mm), which makes sense. There was a 20 mm installed though. PO's shop did the rod bearings so quite possible they put one of the twenty 20mm in there instead of the longer 25mm one. There was one 20 mm missing from the passenger side (I bought a new one and installed), so that would explain where it went. I'm going to try the 25 mm bolt. This all came about because I noticed the missing one on the passenger side, and then checked all the others, since a few around the missing one were quite loose.

      Click image for larger version  Name:	image.png Views:	0 Size:	153.6 KB ID:	357374

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        #4
        If they can't get the oil pan bolts right, I'd be thinking about those conrod bolts. Yikes.

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          #5
          not trying to scare OP at all but Keith_MN prev shop that did rod bearings on my car, just prior to my purchase, installed the rod caps on backwards on 3/6 cylinders. good times!

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            #6
            Originally posted by sd561 View Post
            not trying to scare OP at all but Keith_MN prev shop that did rod bearings on my car, just prior to my purchase, installed the rod caps on backwards on 3/6 cylinders. good times!
            With split rods, how in the heck do you do that? And have it run?? omg

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              #7
              Unless you take the oil pan off and helicoil or timesert it, just leave that bolt off. If that is the only bolt missing, there are plenty of other bolts clamping the oil pan down for the gasket to seal. Plus that is not the lower tilted side of the engine where leaks are more common.

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                #8

                Originally posted by sd561 View Post
                not trying to scare OP at all but Keith_MN prev shop that did rod bearings on my car, just prior to my purchase, installed the rod caps on backwards on 3/6 cylinders. good times!
                Wow. How did you figure that out? Just took off the pan for one reason or another and had a look? It has crossed my mind. But I can't dwell on it for my own sanity! I do think if I need my oil pan off for any reason, I may go ahead and do the bearings again, either DIY or a shop I know and trust.


                Originally posted by Slideways View Post
                Unless you take the oil pan off and helicoil or timesert it, just leave that bolt off. If that is the only bolt missing, there are plenty of other bolts clamping the oil pan down for the gasket to seal. Plus that is not the lower tilted side of the engine where leaks are more common.
                They put one in that's too short, so I'm going to get the correct length. I'm guessing just the first couple threads are shot, if any. The spot on the passenger side where one was straight up missing wasn't leaking. I can see a couple other spots where I think they put in the longer ones where they shouldn't have (25 mm vs 20 mm), but they're through holes and I'm just going to leave them (no leaks).

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by prostcfc View Post


                  Wow. How did you figure that out? Just took off the pan for one reason or another and had a look? It has crossed my mind. But I can't dwell on it for my own sanity! I do think if I need my oil pan off for any reason, I may go ahead and do the bearings again, either DIY or a shop I know and trust.

                  don't mean to hijack your thread and def not tryna spin you out lol. but since you asked:

                  - car was advertised as rod bearing service just completed in preparation for sale (@104k mi)
                  - drove the car for 2.5 years and 10k miles, during which i had several clean bills of health from blackstone (not that they're gospel, just monitoring trends/levels like a responsible lad)
                  - car never revved above 3k until @ temp under my ownership; not once. once at temp -- let er rip
                  - noticed a weird fleeting intermittent cold start rattle late last year, came across a thread from Andratch one late night
                  - with now-114k, and no clear evidence of rod bearing service ever being done, i got spooked and decided to have bearings done again by a local shop i trust
                  - then this https://www.instagram.com/reel/DSSdCILDqaK/
                  - so that sucked; but on the flip side: months prior i had fetched the car from a lenghty nut and bolt suspension restoration and racp job
                  - it is now basically in the best condition since it rolled off the lot in late 06 (april build)
                  - i tell myself i am steward of the marque, not an owner. it had to be done. makes me feel better (it's also true)

                  sending you only good vibes with your current matter, which seems trivial and unrelated to your situation here (saying it out loud to the gods)

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by sd561 View Post
                    Haha, I remember this reel when it came out and got spooked when I watched it. Glad it worked out for you though.

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