headers removal tools advice

[4getr34]

I've been trying to plan on getting the right tools to tackle this job. It looks like the nuts on the each of the far end of the engine block are the ones most difficult to reach. For those of you who have done this job, what tools helped you the most?

[4getr34]

also, are you guys removing any other components to access those nuts aside from resivor, sap, heatshield?

[oceansize]

also, are you guys removing any other components to access those nuts aside from resivor, sap, heatshield?

Thats it from top side (plus egr valve, beauty cover, etc, but that is obvious and simple stuff).

I used a quarter inch wrachet and swivel/u-joint adapter. That's it.

Starts around two minute mark.

[Cubieman]

Its not as bad as you may think, especially if dealing with Euro, or most euro style headers.

You'll need to remove the coolant reservoir and it's flexible line, suck the coolant out first, then remove, ziptie a baggie or rubber glove finger etc over the exposed coolant pipe. The coolant pipe can be unbolted for slightly extra access as well.

Also, the heats shields come out.

In regards to tools just get a 1/4" rachet, medium to small size, the more teeth the better, a ratcheting wrench may be nice as well in some cases, so get that.

Having short, medium and long sockets helps, worst case just normal short and long will work.

The wobble extensions are nice as well, and since they are cheap, grab some of those, maybe a 1" and 3".

Most of the nuts are accessible from the top, I think I got all but 3 from the top.

[Keith_MN]

I picked up a couple additional tools to do mine but like stated above, did the whole thing with a 1/4" socket wrench, a few extensions and a swivel. The only thing that may have made it a little easier would be to have a 1/4" flex head socket wrench.

It felt like it took me longer to remove/reinstall the heat shields than the headers.

[davidf]

I just removed aftermarket Megan Racing headers on Sunday. I basically removed the following to access the 7mm (11mm socket) nuts:
1. Removed coolant reservoir (can be done with reservoir in place, but you still need to remove the feed hose so why not remove the reservoir)
2. Coolant hose
3. Air valve, hose, and pump.
4. Heat shield (only the one attached to cylinder head, shield bolted to frame rail can stay in place)
5. Beauty cover, electrical harnesses, as desired/necessary. I removed the coil harness and battery cable to get them out of the way.
6. Oxygen and EGT sensor wiring.
7. Exhaust system back of headers.
8. Subframe reinforcing plate

All header nuts can be accessed from the top. I used mostly 1/4" drive rachet pieces. Wobble extensions come in handy for a few bolts. Most are easily accessible.

[Keith_MN]

4. Heat shield (only the one attached to cylinder head, shield bolted to frame rail can stay in place)
.

My framerail had a fair amount of dirt & debris wedged between it and the heat shield. You can leave it, but I would advise removing it and cleaning while you're in there. Easy to do after you remove the headers.

[4getr34]

thanks all. will give all the tips a shot

[Mustafa564]

I bought a really small 1/4 inch fine teeth ratchet off Amazon and it was the blessing. It was great for those tight spots.

[CrisSilberGrau]

I just removed aftermarket Megan Racing headers on Sunday. I basically removed the following to access the 7mm (11mm socket) nuts:
1. Removed coolant reservoir (can be done with reservoir in place, but you still need to remove the feed hose so why not remove the reservoir)
2. Coolant hose
3. Air valve, hose, and pump.
4. Heat shield (only the one attached to cylinder head, shield bolted to frame rail can stay in place)
5. Beauty cover, electrical harnesses, as desired/necessary. I removed the coil harness and battery cable to get them out of the way.
6. Oxygen and EGT sensor wiring.
7. Exhaust system back of headers.
8. Subframe reinforcing plate

All header nuts can be accessed from the top. I used mostly 1/4" drive rachet pieces. Wobble extensions come in handy for a few bolts. Most are easily accessible.

*Remove both heat shields, no idea how you got to all nuts from the top on OEM USD headers
*Hard line coolant hose must be loosed via nut/bolt holding it, like a retard found out my second time around I could do that

Taking off headers is the worst, if its the first time and they are either OEM catted or SSV1. I've done 5 of these jobs, hate every single one. It's tedious and there's no space unless you want to go the extra mile and lower the subframe and work like that. But IMO thats overkill, just get carpal tunnel like a real man.

[davidf]

*Remove both heat shields, no idea how you got to all nuts from the top on OEM USD headers
*Hard line coolant hose must be loosed via nut/bolt holding it, like a retard found out my second time around I could do that

Taking off headers is the worst, if its the first time and they are either OEM catted or SSV1. I've done 5 of these jobs, hate every single one. It's tedious and there's no space unless you want to go the extra mile and lower the subframe and work like that. But IMO thats overkill, just get carpal tunnel like a real man.

As noted in my post, I removed Megan Racing headers and was able to access all nuts from the top. I am going back in with OEM USD (cat) headers but that is a chore for this weekend. I pulled the SMG to be converted to 6MT and pulled the rear diff to install the Racing Diff M clunk kit.

I did not have to loosen the coolant hard line, but probably would have helped. I used a short 11mm 1/4" socket on a wobble extension to access the nut partially blocked by the water pipe.

It took about 3 hours to remove all the ancillary bits, remove the headers, and reinstall the header studs (most of them came out with the nut still attached. I chased the stud holes, cleaned up the studs and reinstalled with red loctite...took about an hour). And, includes fitting the OEM headers loosely in place until I can reinstall the exhaust and tighten every down together so as not to put any of the parts in a bind relative to each other.

[Cubieman]

Also, I can't stress this enough, if you have studs that have to go back in start all studs by hand to ensure they are not cross threaded.

Clean those female threads with compressed air and/or brake cleaner, if not a chaser, chaser would be best.

[3staxontheradio]

I bought a small pile of tools to test out what works best. A mini 1/4" swivel head ratchet was one of the most useful ones. The recessed nuts in the OEM style sheet metal flanges make things more difficult than they need to be.

[bigjae46]

IIRC...a mid-deep 11mm socket would have been great. Long reach 1/4" battery ratchet made the job go much faster.