Update from today:
I left the battery connected to my Type S smart charger/maintainer while I was out of town for a few days. It was set to 12V/AGM/5A and had plenty of time to fully charge.
Got back today, disconnected the charger and let the battery sit for about 30 minutes before testing.
Battery with engine off: 12.56V
Started the car and let it idle for about a minute with everything off.
Idle, no accessories: 14.10V
Then turned on the headlights, HVAC blower on max and rear defroster, with the stereo off. Waited about a minute and tested again.
Idle under full accessory load: 13.84V
So this was a much different result from the previous test when the battery had started around 12.1–12.2V and voltage eventually dropped into the 12.5–12.7V range under load.
Looks like the advice to fully charge the battery before testing the alternator was spot on. With a properly charged battery, the alternator seems to be charging normally and handling the load just fine.
At this point I don't think there's enough evidence to justify replacing the alternator.
Still need to figure out what caused the original incident where the car shut off and went completely electrically dead until it was jumped. Next step will probably be a proper battery load/CCA test, checking the main power and ground connections/voltage drop, and possibly checking for a parasitic draw.
For now I put it back on the maintainer.
Thanks again for all the advice. Definitely helped narrow this down.
I left the battery connected to my Type S smart charger/maintainer while I was out of town for a few days. It was set to 12V/AGM/5A and had plenty of time to fully charge.
Got back today, disconnected the charger and let the battery sit for about 30 minutes before testing.
Battery with engine off: 12.56V
Started the car and let it idle for about a minute with everything off.
Idle, no accessories: 14.10V
Then turned on the headlights, HVAC blower on max and rear defroster, with the stereo off. Waited about a minute and tested again.
Idle under full accessory load: 13.84V
So this was a much different result from the previous test when the battery had started around 12.1–12.2V and voltage eventually dropped into the 12.5–12.7V range under load.
Looks like the advice to fully charge the battery before testing the alternator was spot on. With a properly charged battery, the alternator seems to be charging normally and handling the load just fine.
At this point I don't think there's enough evidence to justify replacing the alternator.
Still need to figure out what caused the original incident where the car shut off and went completely electrically dead until it was jumped. Next step will probably be a proper battery load/CCA test, checking the main power and ground connections/voltage drop, and possibly checking for a parasitic draw.
For now I put it back on the maintainer.
Thanks again for all the advice. Definitely helped narrow this down.

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