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  • whoissuprme
    replied
    Originally posted by whoissuprme View Post

    ​The only problem there would be shipping it across the country lol


    Ok well that settles that lmao!
    Ok finally placed the order today. Ordered the SS 63.5mm non res section1 and the 63.5mm resonated section 2.

    Only thing that sucks is that the section 1 has to come from Italy. Hopefully should be here in under 2 weeks. Section 2 will be here in a few days

    Leave a comment:


  • Casa de Mesa
    replied
    Originally posted by Casa de Mesa View Post
    I'm getting ready to install:
    • AP Headers
    • Fabspeed catted (HJS cats) section 1
    • SS oversized and resonated section 2
    • SS Race section 3
    Couple things before install:

    1) I hope it's not too, too loud. This isn't a daily car for me but...
    2) The Fabspeed quality is incredible. Yeah, it's probably the simplest section to get right, but damn they are nice pipes. I wish Fabspeed did a full system.


    Posting some videos of my setup for a reference point only. My setup is quoted above. This is before the CSL intake. I'll like be quieting down the car with a SS Sport or Street version at some point. It's loud... and with the CSL intake, hearing the induction noise bouncing off cliff/canyon walls at WOT is heaven.


    Leave a comment:


  • maw1124
    replied
    That's all good stuff. I have to admit (back somewhat on thread), I really just want to hear it more gnarly out of the back because of the cams🤣😂

    maw

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Don't have cams on my engine but have talked to a few people who do and their engines did not run right without a tune.

    I have also run the CSL tune on my car with stock cams and while driveability was fine, AFRs were not. Car also made 9 whp more with just a canned tune (i.e. not optimized for my specific engine). Both of these things lead me to believe that the relatively mild jump from CSL to stock cams was outside the adjustment range of the DME. Can only imagine that these issues will get exacerbated with more aggressive cams.

    Leave a comment:


  • maw1124
    replied
    Originally posted by EthanolTurbo View Post

    I think the reason cams didn't work right or make optimal power in the early days of the S54 is because very few tuners knew how to adjust the VANOS tables to get them dialed in. That's if my memory serves me right as I gleaned that info from reading old forum posts and dynos.

    What you're proposing is along the same lines of not wanting to get a new tune if you throw a different (bigger) turbo on a forced induction car, and potentially dangerous/harmful to the motor. Sure, the ECU can adjust for different variables but there comes a point where something can go very wrong if the (relatively ancient) ECU can't handle or compensate for the relatively drastic changes.

    Just my opinion, I wouldn't risk tanking a motor when you can get a very high quality custom tune from HTE for $350 and it'll run perfect and make a lot more power with the dialed in settings.
    No doubt, I hear you. And no, I wouldn't throw thousands at cams and skimp on a tune unless I was certain it was within the 3/5/7% safety zone. I was just wondering if anyone knew whether different profile cams were within or outside that zone.

    On my AMG S55 Kompressor, cams don't need a tune, but going with a 9% smaller supercharger pulley absolutely does (but it gives you 10% more power). That car does NOT like to run lean (3 valve, twin spark).

    I'm just trying to figure out how much of a difference are cams on this engine. Thanks for your thoughts.

    maw

    Leave a comment:


  • EthanolTurbo
    replied
    Originally posted by maw1124 View Post
    Does the ECU not control the VANOS? So those settings don't natively adjust for fuel quality, fluctuating A/F ratios, dense v thin air, weaker spark plugs, etc.? You're telling me VANOS is a zero safety margin system?

    I can accept the need for a tune but I also need to separate science from fiction. Most ECUs can adjust for cams as part of the built in safety margin.

    maw
    I think the reason cams didn't work right or make optimal power in the early days of the S54 is because very few tuners knew how to adjust the VANOS tables to get them dialed in. That's if my memory serves me right as I gleaned that info from reading old forum posts and dynos.

    What you're proposing is along the same lines of not wanting to get a new tune if you throw a different (bigger) turbo on a forced induction car, and potentially dangerous/harmful to the motor. Sure, the ECU can adjust for different variables but there comes a point where something can go very wrong if the (relatively ancient) ECU can't handle or compensate for the relatively drastic changes.

    Just my opinion, I wouldn't risk tanking a motor when you can get a very high quality custom tune from HTE for $350 and it'll run perfect and make a lot more power with the dialed in settings.

    Leave a comment:


  • maw1124
    replied
    Does the ECU not control the VANOS? So those settings don't natively adjust for fuel quality, fluctuating A/F ratios, dense v thin air, weaker spark plugs, etc.? You're telling me VANOS is a zero safety margin system?

    I can accept the need for a tune but I also need to separate science from fiction. Most ECUs can adjust for cams as part of the built in safety margin.

    maw
    Last edited by maw1124; 11-26-2022, 04:16 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • EthanolTurbo
    replied
    Originally posted by maw1124 View Post
    Yeah this is me... I'm not looking for an incremental horse or 2 of power... nor am I chasing more induction sound... and with top down damned near 100% of the time I don't care about drone... I'll take more sound out the back and I think the rasp is this car's signature so I'm not interested in deleting it. Hence only a lighter back box is really in play for me. Cams if I ever have to open the engine (I'm really trying to figure out if the ECU can natively adjust).

    maw
    The ECU can definitely not adjust natively for cams as I believe the VANOS settings need to be tweaked amongst other things.

    Leave a comment:


  • maw1124
    replied
    Yeah this is me... I'm not looking for an incremental horse or 2 of power... nor am I chasing more induction sound... and with top down damned near 100% of the time I don't care about drone... I'll take more sound out the back and I think the rasp is this car's signature so I'm not interested in deleting it. Hence only a lighter back box is really in play for me. Cams if I ever have to open the engine (I'm really trying to figure out if the ECU can natively adjust).

    maw

    Leave a comment:


  • tnord
    replied
    Originally posted by maw1124 View Post

    I’ll play… what do the euro tips add to the sound? Right now I’m considering stock exhaust w/SS Sport, but my reasoning isn’t as clear as I’d like (between Sport, Race, or something else). But I’m clear on the stock exhaust back to the muffler.

    maw
    I was determined to fix the rasp/sound problem, as I loved the car but to me the sound was not tolerable. I went with the CPI RTX, SS single resonated, and SS sport. I picked the sport because I did want a little more volume and aggressive sound, but I do a fair amount of highway driving and wanted nothing to do with the SS race.

    the rasp is definitely gone, there is a slight drone around 2700rpm, but I've done multiple 3hr trips in the car and don't regret any of my choices. I'm content with it enough that I'm hesitant to get headers and switch sect 1 to catted for fear of messing up the sound.

    Leave a comment:


  • crow4213
    replied
    Originally posted by Lee_Enfield View Post
    Anyone else have experience with the valvetronic exhaust? I wake up pretty early and like the idea of not waking up the neighbors but still being able to enjoy the sound.
    Since adding the cats to section 1 it tamed it quite a bit...still kind of boomy in low rpms but its not annoyingly loud at all. Im adding an ss single pipe resonated section 2 so that should calm it down even more with valves closed, but as is its not super loud on cold starts.

    Leave a comment:


  • Lee_Enfield
    replied
    Anyone else have experience with the valvetronic exhaust? I wake up pretty early and like the idea of not waking up the neighbors but still being able to enjoy the sound.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mayan-Viking
    replied
    Originally posted by ViN View Post
    I do like the sound of the Castro Motorsport exhaust.
    https://youtu.be/9iab127OBGQ
    That does sound pretty gnarly. I can't find anything about where to purchase one. Are they still in business?

    Leave a comment:


  • ViN
    replied
    I do like the sound of the Castro Motorsport exhaust.

    Leave a comment:


  • whoissuprme
    replied
    Originally posted by EthanolTurbo View Post

    Just do the non res section 1 and you can weld resonators in later if desired and it'll still be cheaper.

    I think I actually have a non res section 1 for SS V1 I can sell you really cheap.
    ​The only problem there would be shipping it across the country lol


    Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
    Agreed. I'd also rather just get the HJS catted sect 1 (which I did do) even with its high price, over the expensive resonated sect 1.

    Absolutely get the resonated sect 2 (dual pipe), not non res - I hated that piece of shit.
    Ok well that settles that lmao!

    Leave a comment:

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