This is something that I’ve been wondering for a while. I know stock section 2 is good on its own but I want to know if there are better options to make equal or better power. I’m on the road to install basic bolt ons, so far I have Megan catless headers, SGT unresonated sect 1, performance air filter, and Manzo muffler (lol). Untuned but waiting for better mods for a proper tune.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Best Section 2 for power
Collapse
X
-
SS 2.5 dual seemed to be popular on the old forum. I think Obioban noticed a bump (butt dyno). I did on my setup as well, although never dynoed.
On my setup - ssv1, ss racing cats, [s2], ss sport, it seemed to breathe better/easier with SS 2.5 dual. I know a lot of exhaust setup is sometimes in search of the perfect sound, so if you are a rasp lover you will be disappointed, as SS 2.5 dual basically eliminated it from my setup. It sounded awesome (to my ears from the driver's seat) with the stock s2.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Youtube DIYs and more
All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.
PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Nihilation View PostInterested as well. Of curiosity, did you run different studs with the Megan headers? About to install mine.
Comment
-
Originally posted by erickhoyos View Post
I remember I asked the shop that installed them to use E36 studs since sometimes OEM studs don’t work well but I don’t think they did since fitment was spot on from what they told me. The only issue was that the secondary O2 sensor bungs were out of place so they couldn’t install them.
Zero fitment issues and my secondary o2’s are capped so that wasn’t an issue there. Although I did have to find my own cap for the EGR.
Huge improvement on the butt dyno as well moving to the Megan headers. Worth every little bit of time.
Comment
-
Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View PostSS 2.5 dual seemed to be popular on the old forum. I think Obioban noticed a bump (butt dyno). I did on my setup as well, although never dynoed.
On my setup - ssv1, ss racing cats, [s2], ss sport, it seemed to breathe better/easier with SS 2.5 dual. I know a lot of exhaust setup is sometimes in search of the perfect sound, so if you are a rasp lover you will be disappointed, as SS 2.5 dual basically eliminated it from my setup. It sounded awesome (to my ears from the driver's seat) with the stock s2.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Comment
-
There's two significant factors:
1) total pipe area
2) merge location
For (1), you only need enough that's it not a restriction. Swapping out the section 2 on a car with/near stock power isn't going to get you anything. Cheat sheet above. Stock is ~2.25" (dual).
For (2), the stock location is pretty optimal for 99% of people-- really good top end power with great low/mid range power. You have to be will to throw away the sub 5000rpm power band to gain anything at the top.
I like the SS twin 2.5" section 2 because it keeps the stock merge location, so it doesn't ruin to bottom end/mid range, which still flowing sufficiently for a full bolt on car (and then some). It also allow you to use a resonator, which nixes the rasp (which I dislike).
2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
2012 LMB/Black 128i
2008 Black/Black M5 Sedan
Comment
-
Originally posted by Seattleswimboy View PostFor top peak HP the rouge engineering section 2 with electronic dump is the best out there while keeping the standard quad tail pipes. The ability to bypass the muffler gives a preppy decent bump. Most dynos I have seen have been about +10hp
The stock muffler has creates no restriction at/near stock power levels-- you won't gain anything by bypassing it.
If you have a significantly more powerful than stock car, most people have bumped the muffler up to something that flows to match-- at which point a theoretical dump valve also provides no benefit.
The RE section 2 is a 76mm pipe specifically, which is slightly smaller than 3"-- so it actually flows worse than stock... and that's before the dump valve, which makes me think it never has any power benefit.
If there's a dyno showing it making 10hp, I'd guess it was before the Rogue Engineering El Diable muffler-- the original design of that thing was probably the most power killing muffler for the chassis.
2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
2012 LMB/Black 128i
2008 Black/Black M5 Sedan
Comment
-
Originally posted by Obioban View Post
There's two significant factors:
1) total pipe area
2) merge location
For (1), you only need enough that's it not a restriction. Swapping out the section 2 on a car with/near stock power isn't going to get you anything. Cheat sheet above. Stock is ~2.25" (dual).
For (2), the stock location is pretty optimal for 99% of people-- really good top end power with great low/mid range power. You have to be will to throw away the sub 5000rpm power band to gain anything at the top.
I like the SS twin 2.5" section 2 because it keeps the stock merge location, so it doesn't ruin to bottom end/mid range, which stiff flowing sufficiently for a full bolt on car (and then some). It also allow you to use a resonator, which nixes the rasp (which I dislike).
Comment
-
Originally posted by erickhoyos View Post
Will an X pipe gain similar results or worsen low/mid range since the diameter of the pipe merges from 2.25 to 3 back to 2.25? Wouldn’t that create a bottleneck effect?
The so called "2-1-2 x pipe" Section 2s are not a true x pipe. They are closer to a " Y " pipe than a true "X pipe".
Now the Z4M and the e9x have a proper X pipe (section).
I would stick with the OE Section 2 till the 330+ RWHP.Last edited by SWRT_M3; 08-02-2020, 06:32 PM.Formally SWRTstang_M3 on M3forum.net with a join date of 07/2004
Comment
Comment