Megan Racing Headers Install

[Circa Surviven]

I think I had to bend the heatshield up now that you mention it. They aren't thin, that's for sure.

The heat shield closest to the fcab and section 1 connection? I pushed on most of it with my hand to verify it not touching on install but it didn't budge, what tool did you use? I looked up exhaust leaks and I don't think I have any ticking, more of a tractor sound.

[Arith2]

Don't think the Megan headers would be thick enough, but on my SSv1's I had to slot the upper heatshield holes in order to raise it up so it would not contact the headers.

I think I had to bend the heatshield up now that you mention it. They aren't thin, that's for sure.

[Cubieman]

Whenever exhaust bolts and nuts get heat cycled, they can loosen. Could just be the new sound rattling your heat shields. Welcome to headers.

Don't think the Megan headers would be thick enough, but on my SSv1's I had to slot the upper heatshield holes in order to raise it up so it would not contact the headers.

[Arith2]

Whenever exhaust bolts and nuts get heat cycled, they can loosen. Could just be the new sound rattling your heat shields. Welcome to headers.

[Circa Surviven]

I think some are able to bend the heatshield out of the way somehow if there is interference at headers/sec. 1 area.
If you are sure you have a leak take your heatshields off a check if all the nuts are tight enough. It's not a bad idea to do this a little while after a header install regardless. I noticed a few haf loosened up on my last header install just a bit, or so it seemed.

Did the flanges on headers look flush, did you check them out before install?

Did you use factory gaskets and new factory nuts?

I used elring gaskets, so hopefully those aren't at fault. I tightened the new oe nuts decently tight in criss cross patterns across different flanges evenly but I was afraid of stripping it so maybe I didn't tighten it enough. I checked the flanges on the headers and they seemed fine.

[Cubieman]

I thought everything went fine with the install last weekend because the car drove fine and didn't have any weird noises. Started it tonight after sitting for a week and it sounds like I have an exhaust rattle/possible leak in the front header area that varies by rpm. What's the best course of action? Pulling everything back apart like the heat shields and expansion tank to check if the heat cycle loosened up the nuts? I think the section 1 to header might be slightly grazing the heat shield even though I tightened the headers with cardboard between it and the shield.

I think some are able to bend the heatshield out of the way somehow if there is interference at headers/sec. 1 area.
If you are sure you have a leak take your heatshields off a check if all the nuts are tight enough. It's not a bad idea to do this a little while after a header install regardless. I noticed a few haf loosened up on my last header install just a bit, or so it seemed.

Did the flanges on headers look flush, did you check them out before install?

Did you use factory gaskets and new factory nuts?

[Circa Surviven]

I thought everything went fine with the install last weekend because the car drove fine and didn't have any weird noises. Started it tonight after sitting for a week and it sounds like I have an exhaust rattle/possible leak in the front header area that varies by rpm. What's the best course of action? Pulling everything back apart like the heat shields and expansion tank to check if the heat cycle loosened up the nuts? I think the section 1 to header might be slightly grazing the heat shield even though I tightened the headers with cardboard between it and the shield.

[Slideways]

That does make sense but is it not a good idea to put anti-sieze on the studs to prevent the threads from potentially galling in the head? You do not use any anti-sieze on the threads going in the head?

No, you want the studs to stay in the cylinder head, so dry install seems preferable. I don't think BMW intended for the studs to be removed unless they had some damaged threads.

TIS for reinstalling manifolds with new copper nuts using copper paste (anti-seize):

[Cubieman]

Cubie, it's the other way around. The threads for the copper nuts only require copper anti-seize to aid in removal if the manifolds need to come off at any point in the future. The anti-seize keeps the nut from seizing to the stud and pulling the stud out of the cylinder head.

That does make sense but is it not a good idea to put anti-sieze on the studs to prevent the threads from potentially galling in the head? You do not use any anti-sieze on the threads going in the head?

[Slideways]

Only the threads into the block need anti-sieze, keep the exposed (sticking out of head) stud dry. With anti-sieze you should be able to bottom out the n54 studs on their "shoulder" by hand but some may require the use of a ratchet.
If using a ratchet only grip the head of the ratchet as to apply very little torque until you know you've got it then use ratchet handle to seat the stud fully.

A light coating is sufficient.

Cubie, it's the other way around. The threads for the copper nuts only require copper anti-seize to aid in removal if the manifolds need to come off at any point in the future. The anti-seize keeps the nut from seizing to the stud and pulling the stud out of the cylinder head.

[Circa Surviven]

They went on pretty easily. If it isn't threading easily, it is likely that you aren't centered. However, if it is tough, just get it down as much as possible before stripping lol.

They went in easy with the e6 torx socket. Threading the nuts on those torx studs is way easier than the shorter stock ones. If I could do it over again, I'd use all torx studs as getting the nut straight on the stock ones isn't fun.

[Johnvu]

For sure! I have 18 new ones ready to go. The local dealership has the torx studs in stock, so I'm going to use those instead of the stock design. We're they hard to thread for you? I've read a couple comments by those using them on the e46 m3, saying they were hard to install by hand and they stopped trying in fear of stripping the head.

They went on pretty easily. If it isn't threading easily, it is likely that you aren't centered. However, if it is tough, just get it down as much as possible before stripping lol.

[Arith2]

EGT is for sure used for engine management with the csl engine management. I don’t know if that’s also true for the non csl engine management.

My car hasn't had any issues since making the switch. It's location makes it really inaccurate and it only measures one side. If it is imperative, I may buy a new one and fix the cut wires but so far so good. It's one less thing I have to worry about. It's only purpose is to seal that bung atm.

[Cubieman]

Rookie question: copper anti-seize on the threads that go into the block, or only the section that the nut is tightened on?

Only the threads into the block need anti-sieze, keep the exposed (sticking out of head) stud dry. With anti-sieze you should be able to bottom out the n54 studs on their "shoulder" by hand but some may require the use of a ratchet.
If using a ratchet only grip the head of the ratchet as to apply very little torque until you know you've got it then use ratchet handle to seat the stud fully.

A light coating is sufficient.

[Circa Surviven]

Be sure to clean the female threads the best you can and definitely use anti-sieze, take your time and you'll be just fine.

Rookie question: copper anti-seize on the threads that go into the block, or only the section that the nut is tightened on?