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Megan Racing Headers Install
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I used my stock studs. You should definitely get a tune after doing the headers as well. You’ll get a bump in power and you won’t have to worry about the o2 sensors
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My o2 wires also weren't long enough. I used new oem gaskets for the header to sec 1 joint and have no issues. The gaskets that Megan provides are pretty crappy imo, so I used oem.Originally posted by OldRanger View PostI just put a set of these Megan Racing headers on as part of a CSL-style intake project on a track car (2005 manual). I purchased from Prestige Auto Lab for $328. Shipping was timely and the product fitment is spot on. Here’s what I’ll add:
1) Studs: one of mine backed out on cylinder 1. I replaced it with one the N54 ones recommended in this thread. It went in to the shoulder easily with a small ratchet. Pro: easy to install nut. Con: it’s longer, so more wrenching and the new threads and nut make that a challenge. I’m glad I didn’t replace them all based on that consideration; I had 18 to use if needed.
2) Tool: the $30 Gear Wrench 35 Piece 1/4" Drive MicroDriver Set, combined with a short extension can get all the nuts while working from the top. Ergonomically, this was a good position for tightening on install. I did not use the battery powered 1/4 drive ratchet I intentionally bought for this job.
3) O2 sensors: the Pre Cat, Bank 2 wire is not long enough to be routed on the original ‘path’, I had to route it directly over the back of the valve cover to avoid the header. It is also in a position that seems to compromise the wires, with a tight fit against the firewall heat shield. (Maybe I’ve done something wrong?)
4) EGT probe needs a u-turn bend instead of the original 90 degree bend to provide an optimal routing and a bit more slack in the wire. I will find out from Epic Motorsports if it’s even required for his tune.
5) The Megan ‘gasket’ for headers to section 1 joint is preferred over OEM because it’s dimensions allow the bolts to be used to compress the material, whereas the OEM dimensions prevent threading the nut on original bolts.
6) Process: contrary to some DIY videos and instructions, the original headers can be removed, with the O2 sensors still installed without removing any engine mounts or front control arm components.
7) Optional ‘while I’m in there’: this is a good time to replace the coolant hose BMW-11537830713
Now, once I get through some issues I’m having with the OBD connection and the Epic software (that I didn’t have on a previous tune a few months ago) I’ll get the car running and head to the dyno.
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I just put a set of these Megan Racing headers on as part of a CSL-style intake project on a track car (2005 manual). I purchased from Prestige Auto Lab for $328. Shipping was timely and the product fitment is spot on. Here’s what I’ll add:
1) Studs: one of mine backed out on cylinder 1. I replaced it with one the N54 ones recommended in this thread. It went in to the shoulder easily with a small ratchet. Pro: easy to install nut. Con: it’s longer, so more wrenching and the new threads and nut make that a challenge. I’m glad I didn’t replace them all based on that consideration; I had 18 to use if needed.
2) Tool: the $30 Gear Wrench 35 Piece 1/4" Drive MicroDriver Set, combined with a short extension can get all the nuts while working from the top. Ergonomically, this was a good position for tightening on install. I did not use the battery powered 1/4 drive ratchet I intentionally bought for this job.
3) O2 sensors: the Pre Cat, Bank 2 wire is not long enough to be routed on the original ‘path’, I had to route it directly over the back of the valve cover to avoid the header. It is also in a position that seems to compromise the wires, with a tight fit against the firewall heat shield. (Maybe I’ve done something wrong?)
4) EGT probe needs a u-turn bend instead of the original 90 degree bend to provide an optimal routing and a bit more slack in the wire. I will find out from Epic Motorsports if it’s even required for his tune.
5) The Megan ‘gasket’ for headers to section 1 joint is preferred over OEM because it’s dimensions allow the bolts to be used to compress the material, whereas the OEM dimensions prevent threading the nut on original bolts.
6) Process: contrary to some DIY videos and instructions, the original headers can be removed, with the O2 sensors still installed without removing any engine mounts or front control arm components.
7) Optional ‘while I’m in there’: this is a good time to replace the coolant hose BMW-11537830713
Now, once I get through some issues I’m having with the OBD connection and the Epic software (that I didn’t have on a previous tune a few months ago) I’ll get the car running and head to the dyno.
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Imagine complaining about $500 for two pieces of header for a 60k car.
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$500 is yesterday's $300. Your dollar has been diluted with stimulus $.
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I think I'm gonna get them then. Should sound great with the full SS exhaust that came on my car.
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They fit and they were $300. Went on with no issues. Far easier to install the Megans then removing the OE manifolds!
I have the BW race exhaust and the headers definitely increased the volume over the OE manifolds.
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Most bang for buck performance upgrade for this car is headers especially if you do it yourself, get a buddy and bang it out (pun intended) in a day. Most noticeable is the midrange if I remember correctly. Tune will net you over 300whp with healthy internals and a decent exhaust setup without too many 180 bends in the muffler.Originally posted by MTiz View PostSo would you all recommend Megan Headers? My car is going under the knife soon and I'm contemplating adding headers and want a budget-friendly pair. Was fitment and sound good, as well as power gains? Thank you
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Some of the better chinese made headers. There was a bad batch, but that was a while ago I think they fixed it. Can still find sets for $395 on ebay last I looked.
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So would you all recommend Megan Headers? My car is going under the knife soon and I'm contemplating adding headers and want a budget-friendly pair. Was fitment and sound good, as well as power gains? Thank you
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I found the EGR had came completely off, I guess I didn't tighten it enough. I started the car and it wasn't rattling on idle on jack stands but it seems like the section 1 piping when connected probably grazes the top of the heat shield. I guess I need to loosen the bank 1-3 headers, put the section 1 back on and then tighten with cardboard shoved up above it.
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keep going up in price.
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