How to prep my M3 for proper long-term storage?

[eljay]

Here's my winter storage procedure checklist that I picked up somewhere and edited slightly:

Winter Storage Procedure

* Put in fresh oil/filter
* Fill the gas with fresh fuel from a top quality station using high octane (no alcohol if you can help it). This reduces the amount of fuel tank wall space that would enable condensation to accumulate during the changing environment temperatures. Add a gas preservative such as Stabil and run the engine for a few minutes, so it can be distributed throughout the fuel system.
* Put plenty of air in the tires (over inflate slightly). 5 to 15 pounds should be enough.
* Make sure the car is thoroughly washed, including the underbody.
* Wash and wax your car right before storing it.
* Store the car only when it is dry.
* Make sure the car has had a good run on the highway before storing it. By getting your car up to operating temperature it helps to burn off contaminants in the oil and it also gets rid of moisture in the crankcase and the exhaust system.
* To stop moisture from getting under the car put a couple layers of plastic sheeting under the entire car and several feet either side/ends. This plastic is cheap and a good vapor barrier.
* Close all the windows and put the system on max a/c to close the outside vent. If the garage is heated, then the window can be left open a small crack to allow air circulation.
* Put a large bag of desiccant gel inside the car. This absorbs excess moisture in the air. Put them in a pie tin on the floor of the car. You can also place an open box of Baking Soda on the floor of the car to absorb moisture. The Passenger Side floor works fine.
* Treat all rubber with a good rubber cleaner/conditioner. Clean your interior and vacuum it out, use leather cleaner/conditioner and vinyl cleaner/conditioner as required. Do NOT use water on the carpets/seats right before storage, mold and mildew will follow. Do NOT treat inside surfaces with Armor-All (or similar) products before storing your car. They contain a lot of water and chemicals that can encourage mildew and mold. You may get a musty spell concentrated over the winter.
* Connect a quality trickle charger to the car (like CTek etc.). Connect it to the terminals in the engine bay, not onto the battery itself (this ensures the battery control module can regulate voltage to the various electronic components.
* If storing the car on the wheels, place cardboard or old carpet pieces under the tire to separate from the cold concrete. If you put the car on jack stands, use them under the suspension so all the bushings and springs are the way they are supposed to be, and not drooping down. Drooping from the weight of the wheels etc is hard on the suspension, and exposes parts to rust that normally are hidden.
* If the car is manual, leave it in gear. Use wheel blocks to prevent it from rolling.
* If the car is stored on its wheels, it may be helpful to roll the car slightly once a month.
* Never set the parking brake. The brake shoes or pads could stick to the drums or rotors or the cables could rust or freeze up during storage. Use wheel blocks.
* Put steel wool or rolled up scotch-brite pads in the tailpipes and the air intake inlets.
* IMPORTANT!! It is far better to let your car sit for four or five months without starting it, than to start it once a week, or once a month and let it sit for 10 minutes. NEVER start your car unless you plan on driving it on the highway for at least 1/2 hour and get it to full operating temp. Doing otherwise will just load the engine and exhaust with moisture to start rust etc.
* Place a sticky note on the steering wheel or dash with the words: "Remove steel wool from exhaust and intake before starting!"
* Cover it using quality fitted cover
* OPTIONAL: whisper to it, or play sounds of M3 GTR going around Nurburgring from YouTube until the car is peacefully asleep and comfortable.

[turbosig]

Ctek battery tender first and foremost. I have a garage queen which sits all winter and fall. I use a tender and make sure the air in the tires is a tad over inflated. Other than that, that’s all she wrote.

[timmo]

If you're concerned about rodents, it might not be a bad idea to plug the exhaust pipes and intake. Be sure to put a big reminder on your steering wheel or something so you don't start the car with these things plugged.

Ha, I left a couple plastic bags plugging up my exhaust and started my car up after 1.5 years, man it ran rough. I was worried about it being bad gas even though it was stabilized, then remembered the bags and pulled them out. Purred like a kitten after that

[ArtiM3]

My car sits in the garage for more than 2 years. Only driving during summer. Covered maybe 1000miles since parked. I got nearly empty tank. Just enough fuel to start the car and reach nearby Petrol station. I’m always removing battery and keeping it at home. I got indoor car cover so my M don’t collect any dust. Other than that nothing else. Car always starts without any problems.

[scubastove]

Battery tenders are pretty great. I used to have a different car that I couldn't drive that often (1x-2x a year and I pretty had to just keep buying batteries). Also, in terms of the mirror leaking, you could switch to one of the rectangular ones. I bought one on M3F a while back and think it improves visibility too.

I love the oval shape of the '02 ! So euro and goes well with the side mirrors

[spnsprt]

Battery tenders are pretty great. I used to have a different car that I couldn't drive that often (1x-2x a year and I pretty had to just keep buying batteries). Also, in terms of the mirror leaking, you could switch to one of the rectangular ones. I bought one on M3F a while back and think it improves visibility too.

[e46mpwrd]

I've had my M sit for almost 2 years with some light driving in between (less than 500 miles). Basically filled gas and tires when it sat. Tried to burn the full tank during the light driving then it sat again. Pumped up tire pressure and every so often would roll the car to change wheel position. I didn't even use a battery tender (Resulted in having to buy new battery) Dropped all fluids as soon as I got it back up and running. No issues.

[eacmen]

I don’t really do anything special. Fill the tank, pump the tires up a little extra, attach battery tender then leave it all winter, often 6+ months until it starts again. No stabil or monthly starts .. modern fuels are good for at least a year IME and I’m not convinced idling for a while to warm up is any better than sitting. Never any indication that anything is off when I start it back up.

My first 330i sat for a few months one time during my ownership and ran comically rough when I started it back up. That was a neglected beater though with minimal maintenance and 15k OCIs.

I would be more worried about rodents getting in through the vent door near the battery. I had my car parked for a while with the bumper off and a bird got in that way and couldnt get out. Died in the car after pooping everywhere.

Triple check nothing in your car smells like food.


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[repoman89]

I don’t really do anything special. Fill the tank, pump the tires up a little extra, attach battery tender then leave it all winter, often 6+ months until it starts again. No stabil or monthly starts .. modern fuels are good for at least a year IME and I’m not convinced idling for a while to warm up is any better than sitting. Never any indication that anything is off when I start it back up.

My first 330i sat for a few months one time during my ownership and ran comically rough when I started it back up. That was a neglected beater though with minimal maintenance and 15k OCIs.

[heinzboehmer]

If you're concerned about rodents, it might not be a bad idea to plug the exhaust pipes and intake. Be sure to put a big reminder on your steering wheel or something so you don't start the car with these things plugged.

[Cbouts]

Same as others have mentioned. I use public storage close to my house. Car goes in for "long term" storage once it starts to get cold but i regularly walk down once or twice a month to start it and keep fluids moving.

facility does a good job with mice so I've never had any issues on that front.

[JamesSJ1]

Full tank. Prevents condensation. If you're not going to go through a full tank worth of gas in ~3 months or less, than add a stabilizer.

[Cubieman]

I was always under the impression a full tank was better as well as is prevents condensation in the gas tank.

- Battery Tender
- Sta-bil (full tank? Thoughts? I leave it full)
- Anti- rodent measures
- Make sure you drive the car and get it up the temp. when you have the opportunity to do so, don't simply start it and let it idle, better to do nothing if you can't get it up to temp. and I forgot the reasons.

[dilmorecg]

I dont know if I call my situation long term storage but I only drive mine in the summer so it sits all winter in my garage. It is our regular garage so I can check on it but I keep it on a battery tender and moisture absorber in the interior. I usually use a plug in one but they make hanging ones or ones you can set on the floor. I also keep a car cover on it to keep the dust down....might be a good time to buy one. I try and start it once a month just cause.

[elbert]

Drive the tank down to near empty and put stabil in the fuel tank then run it a little more.

Stabil recommends storing with a 95% full tank using fresh treated fuel.
I've heard the same (an almost full tank is better) from other sources -- I think it has something to do with condensation issues, but don't quote me on that.
You will also want to run the car a bit after adding stabilizer, so that the treated fuel is in the entire system.

If you're going to drive it around at least once a month, that isn't too bad. I sometimes go longer without driving my car.
I do keep the battery on a maintenance charge (or completely disconnect it) -- about a month is when the battery starts getting weak. Plus relying on the alternator to charge an almost depleted battery will put a strain on it.

And a car cover isn't a bad idea either.