Muffler hanger direction

[Tbonem3]

Only if they let the midpipe sag enough that they touch the cross member plates. In my experience, even really old mid hangers still work. A very tough part. It even has rubber blocks built into it that don't let it collapse too much. My 17xk originals didn't even really need replacement, tbh.

[mrgizmo04]

The front of the 2 cross member plates (even though realoem only shows 1) is what starts contacting/rattling. I have removed the front one and run without it when I got annoyed. The rear of the two cross member plates is what the hanger connects to.

Once I got ss section 2, because the pipe diameter of ss is larger, it actually came with 1/4" spacers to put between the body and the plate to lower the plate to avoid contact.

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[R60BBA]

Just picking this up again, however does anyone know the reason for why the hangers prematurely fail when fitted the wrong way?

Other than the fact that they have been fitted the wrong way around?

Also can someone confirm that the hangers in the attached images are fitted the correct way?

[JokerElite]

Just picking this up again, however does anyone know the reason for why the hangers prematurely fail when fitted the wrong way?

Other than the fact that they have been fitted the wrong way around?

Also can someone confirm that the hangers in the attached images are fitted the correct way?

If the hangers are a “K” with the end toward the front of the car, this looks to be correct, as the mounting point should be a little left of center.

This makes me want to check mine because it's news to me.

[E46m3zcp]

Did we ever get a concensus on this topic? I have them like in thr figure above and it's not fiting (exhaust is not original)

[Tbonem3]

Yes, concensus was reached. As a former exhaust removal/install ethusiast, I can say that there are many tricks that you can, and probably will need to, use to get great fitment. Playing around with the hangers' direction, shimming them with additional rubber blocks to push it upwards or back/forwards, shimming the studs to lower the hanger, fiddling with the angles (up/down, left/right) of the sect2 to 3 connection all can move the muffler around for you. I've even gotten a muffler to be perfect by shoving sect 2 mount/plate over to one side as mucha s possible. Just depends on the muffler, even stock to a degree.

[AvusM5]

Yes, concensus was reached. As a former exhaust removal/install ethusiast, I can say that there are many tricks that you can, and probably will need to, use to get great fitment. Playing around with the hangers' direction, shimming them with additional rubber blocks to push it upwards or back/forwards, shimming the studs to lower the hanger, fiddling with the angles (up/down, left/right) of the sect2 to 3 connection all can move the muffler around for you. I've even gotten a muffler to be perfect by shoving sect 2 mount/plate over to one side as mucha s possible. Just depends on the muffler, even stock to a degree.

Is there any problem with orienting the metal hanger brackets the opposite direction?

[Tbonem3]

Is there any problem with orienting the metal hanger brackets the opposite direction?

Do you mean only the metal portion, and keeping the inner rubber "K" oriented like normal? Or just flipping the whole thing around?

The metal brack does have a bit of a "wall" on one side. I assume that provides some rigidity, at elast towards the outside.

Maybe the only real downside to doing something different than stock is that the rubber hangers get worn out faster.

[AvusM5]

Do you mean only the metal portion, and keeping the inner rubber "K" oriented like normal? Or just flipping the whole thing around?

The metal brack does have a bit of a "wall" on one side. I assume that provides some rigidity, at elast towards the outside.

Maybe the only real downside to doing something different than stock is that the rubber hangers get worn out faster.

Exactly! Keeping the actual rubber hanger insert oriented with the bias towards the front of the car but the metal bracket flipped with the support sitting on the inside instead of the outside?

I'm currently dealing with a slightly crooked Eisenmann Race (76mm) muffler that seems to be caused due to the manufacturing of the Supersprint section 2 resonated x-pipe that I have. No amount of adjustment with the flanges solves it. I just ordered new muffler hangers and am going to experiment with orienting the left (driver's side) hangers the correct orientation (with the rubber mounting hole biased unloaded towards the front of the car) and the right (passenger side) rubber hanger flipped technically incorrectly with the bias towards the back. No idea if this will help but I'm hoping that flipping the passenger side would help counteract how the muffler is currently sitting slightly crooked rotated to the right.

[Tbonem3]

Looking at your pic, I wonder if you can push Sect 2 more forward to bring that side of Sect 3 inward a bit. With SSV1s, you get more flexibility because the slip fit can be adjusted a bit. With standard euro flange connection, it might not provide as much. But I would try shoving the system as forward as possible. Then turning the driver side hangers in the orientation that pushes (or keeps) things towards the engine more might work. Then orientate the hanger on the passenger side as far back as possible.

The other thing I've done is to shove a rubber block into the rubber hanger to force the center metal bushing/sleeve in aparticular direction; in this case, toward the back to push the middle forward - does that make sense? I then secured that rubber block with a zip tie or high temp duct tape. You could also do the same to the passenger side, but put the shim (rubber block) on the front side to push that hanger backwards a bit more.

Keep in mind, the appearance of your tips will change from the car being cold to hot. Mostly, the exhaust extends as heat expands, but it might even push the driver side out more than the passenger (due to the exahust not being symmetrical [inlets on driver side]).

From you pic, I wouldn't really think about moving the metal bracket around. I don't think that would do anything. I'd focus on moving the sect2/3 joint forward more and the passenger side of the exhaust backwards more to even things up. But I'd judge the situation with the exhaust hot, not cold. Unless you care more about how it looks when it's cold, versus hot. Or maybe there's no difference. There is on mine (stock muffler with tips added).