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Tuned! 332whp! My Engine Build - Cams, Airbox, LTW Flyhweel & more :)

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  • Syfon
    replied
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

    I'm surprised by the lack of vertical supports on your airbox. Will be interesting to see if you get any noticeable flex under vacuum once you get it installed.
    It didn't occur to me other boxes have vertical supports inside. No idea how I will tell if it does flex under vacuum?

    Edit: Just read 0-60motorsports comment above.

    Leave a comment:


  • 0-60motorsports
    replied
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

    I'm surprised by the lack of vertical supports on your airbox. Will be interesting to see if you get any noticeable flex under vacuum once you get it installed.
    This is their new design

    Leave a comment:


  • Tbonem3
    replied
    Looks like there were 2 but they broke off

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by Syfon View Post
    So yesterday, after a ~3.5month wait, my Streamline Airbox arrived. Thought it was an empty box when the UPS deliveryman handed me the box haha.

    Needless to say, I'm impressed with the quality all over. If I'm honest, it's not quite perfect, but I'm really not complaining. Have a look at the pics!

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    I'm surprised by the lack of vertical supports on your airbox. Will be interesting to see if you get any noticeable flex under vacuum once you get it installed.

    Leave a comment:


  • Syfon
    replied
    Originally posted by 0-60motorsports View Post

    Mine fell apart with hardly any mileage on it so there is a danger of it being sucked into the engine. GO OE CSL as that is what was meant for the CSL.
    I see. I'll be sure to get my hands on a OE CSL filter. Cheers

    Leave a comment:


  • 0-60motorsports
    replied
    Originally posted by Syfon View Post

    Yep. It's easy enough to buy an OE CSL filter.

    What's the reason for the ITG being "crap"?
    Mine fell apart with hardly any mileage on it so there is a danger of it being sucked into the engine. GO OE CSL as that is what was meant for the CSL.

    Leave a comment:


  • Syfon
    replied
    Originally posted by 0-60motorsports View Post

    Looks good. Make sure you use an OE CSL filter and not that crap from ITG for too long.
    Yep. It's easy enough to buy an OE CSL filter.

    What's the reason for the ITG being "crap"?

    Leave a comment:


  • 0-60motorsports
    replied
    Originally posted by Syfon View Post
    So yesterday, after a ~3.5month wait, my Streamline Airbox arrived. Thought it was an empty box when the UPS deliveryman handed me the box haha.

    Needless to say, I'm impressed with the quality all over. If I'm honest, it's not quite perfect, but I'm really not complaining. Have a look at the pics!

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    Looks good. Make sure you use an OE CSL filter and not that crap from ITG for too long.

    Leave a comment:


  • Syfon
    replied
    So yesterday, after a ~3.5month wait, my Streamline Airbox arrived. Thought it was an empty box when the UPS deliveryman handed me the box haha.

    Needless to say, I'm impressed with the quality all over. If I'm honest, it's not quite perfect, but I'm really not complaining. Have a look at the pics!

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    Attached Files
    Last edited by Syfon; 09-15-2020, 01:02 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Syfon
    replied
    Originally posted by liam821 View Post
    Did you have the cyl walls lightly honed? You should measure each bore to verify the piston to cyl wall spacing is in acceptable limits. It goes without saying but since you had your crank machined you should measure all the journal surfaces to make sure the bearing spacing is within acceptable limits as well. You gapped the rings correctly? Double and triple check all your math. Don't just "throw it together", that's a receipt for spinning a bearing or having the engine smoke/burn oil/run like poop.
    The bores were only honed/scuffed to allow new oe spec rings to bed in. There was no visible signs of bore wear prior to machining. Bores were not measured.

    All journals/bearings were plastigauged and bearing spacing is spot on. I don't recall the exact measurements, but I have them at home...

    And yes the rings were gapped correctly.
    Last edited by Syfon; 09-08-2020, 09:37 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • liam821
    replied
    Did you have the cyl walls lightly honed? You should measure each bore to verify the piston to cyl wall spacing is in acceptable limits. It goes without saying but since you had your crank machined you should measure all the journal surfaces to make sure the bearing spacing is within acceptable limits as well. You gapped the rings correctly? Double and triple check all your math. Don't just "throw it together", that's a receipt for spinning a bearing or having the engine smoke/burn oil/run like poop.

    Leave a comment:


  • Syfon
    replied
    Originally posted by SteelGreyM View Post

    I made one back on m3f. Took soooo many hours. And cherry on top is that I did the bulk of it only weeks before the site went down. I guess I’ll have to make another :/

    Good luck with your build. I’ve never built a bottom end and I don’t want to use this car as a learning experience. While I do have confidence in my abilities I doubt I can do this the first time without screwing something up.
    Aha, yes we all lost a lot of the best info out there on these cars

    Thank you. I've never assembled a motor before, so this is a huge learning curve. I'm comfortable doing just about anything, although I've screwed up a plenty of things haha.

    IMHO, the bottom end is easy to assemble. There's not much too it really. It's just going over each of the bolts to ensure they're torqued to specification and making sure you don't drop or damage anything, especially the journals and new bearings. Pistons/rods were relatively straightforward to install, rings were a bit of a pain in the ass (and ensuring the rings are oriented correctly is hugely important), and I snapped one due to applying hulk force to open it up and get it seated in the ring landing ahaha. Just waiting on a new pack of rings!

    I've been taking it nice and slow, reading relevant NEWTIS articles beforehand then again and again...https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e46-m3-cou/

    If you're comfortable with your diy skills, I'd say give it a go

    Leave a comment:


  • SteelGreyM
    replied
    Originally posted by Syfon View Post

    Do you have a build thread? If not, put one up!

    Yes, Phil Wurz at Bimmerworld confirmed the fx100 is the correct clutch for the JB Racing Lightweight flyhweel.



    Yeah from Dunc locally. He never installed it so it's still brand new
    I made one back on m3f. Took soooo many hours. And cherry on top is that I did the bulk of it only weeks before the site went down. I guess I’ll have to make another :/

    Good luck with your build. I’ve never built a bottom end and I don’t want to use this car as a learning experience. While I do have confidence in my abilities I doubt I can do this the first time without screwing something up.

    Leave a comment:


  • Syfon
    replied
    Originally posted by SteelGreyM View Post
    Awesome! We are completing our builds at the same time!

    I’m also debating tossing in my JB racing lightweight flywheel. Have you verified that the fx100 kit works with that flywheel?
    Do you have a build thread? If not, put one up!

    Yes, Phil Wurz at Bimmerworld confirmed the fx100 is the correct clutch for the JB Racing Lightweight flyhweel.

    Originally posted by STAATS View Post
    Nice - looks good.

    Did you buy the JB LTW FW new or did you get the low ks one off Dunc locally?
    Yeah from Dunc locally. He never installed it so it's still brand new
    Last edited by Syfon; 09-07-2020, 06:20 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • STAATS
    replied
    Nice - looks good.

    Did you buy the JB LTW FW new or did you get the low ks one off Dunc locally?

    Leave a comment:

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