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How bad is this strut tower crack?

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  • bigjae46
    replied
    Originally posted by OldRanger View Post
    (Also related to a concurrent discussion on strut braces)

    Now that I’m looking closely, I see there is a crack on my car’s passenger side strut tower (I recently traded cars with my son, so I’m still getting acquainted to this one. It’s a 2002 (8/2001))

    The crack appears to ‘be’ on the same position as the edge of the TC Kline camber plate.

    I’d appreciate thoughts on how to repair this, and whether or not a strut brace will help strengthen this long term. I will to track this car at HPDEs without mercy. The front springs are currently 400s. I have a plan to go up in spring rate, and already have a set 500s from TCK I’m waiting to put on.

    I want to repair this before or while I’m swapping coils, installing helper springs, and before an alignment and corner balance.
    Dang, I have a set of 500lb TCK front springs....brand new!

    Ideally, TIG welding would minimize the heat affected zone (HAZ) which results in increased brittleness. TIG needs the metal to be clean, clean, clean so it would require a significant amount of prep on the front and back side. MIG would be easier with larger HAZ and splatter - so you need to cover the area. MIG needs a lot less prep.

    Either way, if the crack is all the way through you have to shield the backside with flux since it the weld will be exposed to oxygen. I'd think welding both sides would have a smaller HAZ but I'm not sure.

    In this case, it might be worth post weld heat treating which reduces the brittleness of the HAZ.
    Last edited by bigjae46; 01-27-2026, 10:20 AM.

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  • Cubieman
    replied
    Look very closely on the all the holes, particularly the inner most holes, they look to be the weakest as that huge alignment pin hole is right next to the stud slot. Not a lot of material in between those 2 holes.

    You'll of course need to remove the suspension anyways for welding, wouldn't be surprised if you find signs of cracking elsewhere that's currently covered.

    I just got my cracks welded, gonna hit the repair area with gray primer until I can figure out a legit re-paint strategy.

    Going to be ruining the underside plates, which I already had been, in conjuction with a Rouge brace, I don't care for the OE brace's small contact surfaces.

    Leave a comment:


  • eacmen
    replied
    Drill each end of the crack and weld it. Get the plates that sit between the camber plate and the strut tower. A strut brace will definitely be helpful if you are tracking the car.

    If you ignore it and don't get it welded the crack will spread regardless of the brace and plates.

    Leave a comment:


  • OldRanger
    replied
    (Also related to a concurrent discussion on strut braces)

    Now that I’m looking closely, I see there is a crack on my car’s passenger side strut tower (I recently traded cars with my son, so I’m still getting acquainted to this one. It’s a 2002 (8/2001))

    The crack appears to ‘be’ on the same position as the edge of the TC Kline camber plate.

    I’d appreciate thoughts on how to repair this, and whether or not a strut brace will help strengthen this long term. I will to track this car at HPDEs without mercy. The front springs are currently 400s. I have a plan to go up in spring rate, and already have a set 500s from TCK I’m waiting to put on.

    I want to repair this before or while I’m swapping coils, installing helper springs, and before an alignment and corner balance.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by OldRanger; 01-26-2026, 07:14 AM. Reason: Added aspect of timing.

    Leave a comment:


  • usdmej
    replied
    Originally posted by sdwz_m3 View Post
    I have a crack on mine too, however different location. Mine is on both towers where the strut bolts are. The shop I’m going to will drill two holes on either end and then weld the crack. I assume yours could be fixed the same. Pic for reference


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    had a similar crack on my strut tower, i was running coilovers and thought a mason strut bar (no reinforcement plates) would be sufficient
    shop i took it to didn't find it very notable, seems like a common occurrence for people running stiff suspension
    they added reinforcement plates after fixing the cracks

    Leave a comment:


  • S3diment
    replied
    Originally posted by BADCLOWN View Post
    Where are you located in OH?

    Im across the river in KY about 10 mins from Cincinnati. I have had various services done on both my ZHPs at Stein Automotive in Louisville, might look into them as well. Only other place I could recommend, I use an independent mechanic/friend near Kenwood Mall that I’ve known for years (excellent mechanic, fabulous welder/fabricator, and a BMW/euro guy) that could probably fix that.
    About 20 min north of West Chester. PMing you now.

    Leave a comment:


  • sdwz_m3
    replied
    Weird thing is that I am running them. Also the third owner at 150k so who knows what happened before


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • Maxima SE
    replied
    Originally posted by sdwz_m3 View Post
    I have a crack on mine too, however different location. Mine is on both towers where the strut bolts are. The shop I’m going to will drill two holes on either end and then weld the crack. I assume yours could be fixed the same. Pic for reference


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    you need to run reinforcement plates with those coilovers. Otherwise cracks will be back

    Leave a comment:


  • BADCLOWN
    replied
    Where are you located in OH?

    Im across the river in KY about 10 mins from Cincinnati. I have had various services done on both my ZHPs at Stein Automotive in Louisville, might look into them as well. Only other place I could recommend, I use an independent mechanic/friend near Kenwood Mall that I’ve known for years (excellent mechanic, fabulous welder/fabricator, and a BMW/euro guy) that could probably fix that.

    Leave a comment:


  • S3diment
    replied
    Just dug up this old thread below which leads me to believe it’s more of a crack in the seam weld. Which admittedly they’re suggesting isn’t as big of a deal. Would you consider this similar?

    Bimmerforums is the preferred online BMW Forum and community for BMW owners. At Bimmerforums, you will find technical how-to information maintenance specifics audio advice wheel and tire combinations and model specific details not found anywhere else. Our professionals are here to help make sure you find the answers you need to your questions and our community is here to help other brainstorm ideas for the future.

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  • TexaZ3
    replied
    This is fixable, but geez - huge crack. I'd be parking the car until fixed, and getting a brace after repair.

    Leave a comment:


  • eacmen
    replied
    Originally posted by S3diment View Post

    Yep, running top hats. Thanks for the lead on the shop in Louisville, I’ll definitely check them out. Can confirm- EAG is pricy!
    To be clear I never used them myself. So can't vouch for them, but I haven't seen anything that pissed me off too much so far and their service records seem to be decent.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • S3diment
    replied
    Originally posted by eacmen View Post

    PSS10 isn't that harsh, should be fine. You're running it with stock top hats or camber plates?

    EAG is crazy pricey. I would call up local luxury car dealers and ask where they do their body work. Or an experienced race shop.

    Before I opened our current track car it was serviced at Winning Formula in Louisville, KY. Owner drove over two hours there for service. Seemed like they knew what they were doing and could likely even fab a brace if needed.


    https://www.winningformulagarage.com/
    Yep, running top hats. Thanks for the lead on the shop in Louisville, I’ll definitely check them out. Can confirm- EAG is pricy!

    Leave a comment:


  • sdwz_m3
    replied
    I have a crack on mine too, however different location. Mine is on both towers where the strut bolts are. The shop I’m going to will drill two holes on either end and then weld the crack. I assume yours could be fixed the same. Pic for reference


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • eacmen
    replied
    Originally posted by S3diment View Post

    Yes, the third owner. I was aware of an accident. I’ve looked into the RE brace. Was going to take some quick measurements to ensure fit.

    Currently running it PSS10 setup. Should I modify it to the softest setting? I’m local to EAG, at this point they seem like the best body shop unless you’re familiar with any others in the OH/KY/IN area.
    PSS10 isn't that harsh, should be fine. You're running it with stock top hats or camber plates?

    EAG is crazy pricey. I would call up local luxury car dealers and ask where they do their body work. Or an experienced race shop.

    Before I opened our current track car it was serviced at Winning Formula in Louisville, KY. Owner drove over two hours there for service. Seemed like they knew what they were doing and could likely even fab a brace if needed.


    The Winning Formula, Full Service Automotive Garage, Motorsports Setup

    Leave a comment:

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