Helpful Valve Adjustment tips?

[sapote]

Sounds like removal of the head may have to be the next step, then a machine shop. He'll, I may just send it NE>CA for Lang to go through.
I have a local guy here that says removal of the head should be the LAST option and wants to try and drill it out, but I don't have enough faith in that.
What would be worst case, buying a new head I suppose?

From valve adjustment to something wrong with the head. Am I missing something here?

[eacmen]

From valve adjustment to something wrong with the head. Am I missing something here?

Yes there is another post where op snapped off an exhaust stud.


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[sapote]

Valve clearance: 7-Elevent -- 0.007" for IN and 0.011 for EX . I prefer to have minimum clearance for low tapping noise and less wear (less gap means less kinetic energy for impact).

I checked and work on each valve at a time.
1. check with feeler gauge. If good then cross it out. IF out of range then measure the gap then calculate how much thicker or thinner the old shim needs. Use caliper measure the old shim then add or sub the required gap, then select a shim with the caliper and install it.

2. Before remove/install shim, use paper towel to wrap around the valve spring like building a basing around a tree to catch the shim in case it drops. Look for a missing shim is not fun.

3. Depending the rocket shafts condition, some rockers need to be slided back/forth a few times to clean up the shaft to loosen it.

Don't use glue to cover the whole VC gasket. Right before the gasket installation, coat a thin bead along the VANOS seams to the head.
Don't over torque the VC nut/bolts. Once they are bottomed, just 1/8 turns more to snug up.

Regardless of previous Beisan updated, I would check and Loctie the cam sleeve bolts. Engine can be destroyed if they came loose. They are more crucial than the VANOS disk update.

[Arith2]

Old engine was sludgy on the rocker rails and now it's in a landfill somewhere. Only had 71k on it. I had to use a pry bar to move the rockers. Could be a good excuse to get some cams and refresh the head with that broken stud. Of course you need funds but Cat Cams are decently priced. I've done a few surprise upgrades, they're the most exciting ones

[eacmen]

Most machine shops i've called on things like this refuse to work with parts on the car.

Id recommend buying a head from lang, sending yours back as core and getting a good shop to do the swap.

I've never done a head swap so I cant really comment, but it sounds like its outside your comfort zone.


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[Cubieman]

Most machine shops i've called on things like this refuse to work with parts on the car.

Id recommend buying a head from lang, sending yours back as core and getting a good shop to do the swap.

I've never done a head swap so I cant really comment, but it sounds like its outside your comfort zone.


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I called Lang today and they said that they would send it off to a shop for extraction. I may have a place in town that can manage the extraction as well. I may possibly be able to remove the head, need to read up on what all this involves. The assembly I definitely do not feel comfortable with at all.

[SQ13]

Bump for a dumb question. I noticed that the OE feeler gauges are in increments of 0.05 mm (0.15, 0.20, 0.25, etc.). How am I supposed to get accurate go/no go readings if the specs are 0.18-0.23 mm and 0.28-0.33 mm? I’m pretty sure I got the right set of OE feeler gauges.

[eacmen]

Bump for a dumb question. I noticed that the OE feeler gauges are in increments of 0.05 mm (0.15, 0.20, 0.25, etc.). How am I supposed to get accurate go/no go readings if the specs are 0.18-0.23 mm and 0.28-0.33 mm? I’m pretty sure I got the right set of OE feeler gauges.

If .15 is too tight or .25 is too loose you need to change.

But i’ve always used inch measurements for this. Easier to write down 9 or 11 thou.

[D-O]

Somewhere here, or the old forum, this Mic was recommended for valve adjustments. It was very nice to have.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MBHXWGY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[mrgizmo04]

Bump for a dumb question. I noticed that the OE feeler gauges are in increments of 0.05 mm (0.15, 0.20, 0.25, etc.). How am I supposed to get accurate go/no go readings if the specs are 0.18-0.23 mm and 0.28-0.33 mm? I’m pretty sure I got the right set of OE feeler gauges.

Get a granular set like this

ABN Universal Standard SAE and Metric Offset Valve Feeler Gauge 16-Piece Blade Tool for Measuring Gap Width/Thickness https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IPWOAOQ...ing=UTF8&psc=1

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[jet_dogg]

I'd avoid a chinesium feeler gauge set as they are most likely not the sizes they advertise.

[Shonky]

I'd avoid a chinesium feeler gauge set as they are most likely not the sizes they advertise.

Yes they're not necessarily great but best you have a decent micrometer IMO to measure what you're taking out and putting in so you can also measure the feeler guages as well. My Chinese spec ones were pretty good except for the 7 thou one I think was about 6.7.

You really want an imperial set of feelers as whilst they spec in mm it actually works out to 7-9 thou and 11-13 thou.

The typical 0.04mm spacing you get in the Wiseco kit and I think the genuine is pretty much the full 2 thou of min to max range (about 1.5 thou).

I would recommend two sets of Wiseco because whilst there is a large range of values it's likely you'll only use a couple of the sizes. Probably dependent on engine condition. Because of the large step size there is a limited amount of swapping around you can do e.g. move the existing shims between cylinders.

When I did mine most recently I aimed for the lower end. I end up oftem writing say 11 or 11+ as I'd find a 11 that would have slight drag as wanted but then a 11 that was looser yet not big enough for for a 12. Surprising how much variance at such small steps.