Rod bearings ‘02

[Jersey_M3]

Any tips on rod bearings replacement on an 02. Doing the DIY from this forum (bimmerfan? I think wrote it) but figured I would pose the question since the DIY is more then a few years old.

[Mpower04]

The three 6mm hex heads bolts (or whatever size they are) holding the oil pump on always seem to be semi rounded when I go to take them out, probably from the recall. I order three new bolts before starting now, the new ones are torx.

[8000RPM]

^ good advice! Also, only put RTV on the seams, not all the way around. The gasket has built in sealant.

[Arith2]

Change oil pump O-rings.
Drop the front subframe completely.
Replace the pick up tube rubber o-ring.
It's a good time to replace the steering coupler.
Buy ATF for the power steering and replace hoses as needed. Get a digital torque wrench due to accuracy and angle torque ease. Return if you don't want to keep a $200 torque wrench. Use ACL bearings if you're on a budget.
Follow the torque sequence to a tee.
Do one rod at a time.
Do spark plugs or coils since they have to come out anyways, if in the budget and needed.
Have a 1/4" torque wrench for oil pan.
Use the Toyota gasket sealer. Many on here vouch for it and it lasts longer than standard RTV. Ask a BMW Master Tech.
Don't floor it immediately afterwards.
Cut open oil filter to check for chunks of bearing if they look bad.

[Slideways]

Don't take the oil pump off.

What? How is anyone supposed to have enough room to work on cylinder 1 connecting rod without removing the oil pump?

[Arith2]

What? How is anyone supposed to have enough room to work on cylinder 1 connecting rod without removing the oil pump?

I'm mixing it up with another engine. I'll change to replacing all the O-rings. I swear, my wife gets pregnant and I get the scatter brain.

[Obioban]

I don't drop the subframe out of the car when I do it, just lower it down.

[Slideways]

I'm mixing it up with another engine. I'll change to replacing all the O-rings. I swear, my wife gets pregnant and I get the scatter brain.

No problem. I didn't want anyone to get confused and try working around the oil pump. Bimmerfan08's DIY makes it a straightforward job.

Only thing I can add is when using a 3/8ths Techangle wrench without an extension, it is helpful to clock cylinder 6 crankpin toward the passenger side of the block after torquing down the rod cap to the first 30nm (M10s rod bolts). This gives enough area to swing for the 105 degree torque angle and not hit the oil cooler.

[Jersey_M3]

Change oil pump O-rings.
Drop the front subframe completely.
Replace the pick up tube rubber o-ring.
It's a good time to replace the steering coupler.
Buy ATF for the power steering and replace hoses as needed. Get a digital torque wrench due to accuracy and angle torque ease. Return if you don't want to keep a $200 torque wrench. Use ACL bearings if you're on a budget.
Follow the torque sequence to a tee.
Do one rod at a time.
Do spark plugs or coils since they have to come out anyways, if in the budget and needed.
Have a 1/4" torque wrench for oil pan.
Use the Toyota gasket sealer. Many on here vouch for it and it lasts longer than standard RTV. Ask a BMW Master Tech.
Don't floor it immediately afterwards.
Cut open oil filter to check for chunks of bearing if they look bad.

Great advice. I ordered the kit from fcp euro which came with most of what you advised above and no bolts because I’m supposed to reused them. Got ATF fluid, steering coupler, front subframe reinforcement plates, injectors, and plugs

I need to get the oil pump o rings and this gasket sealer you speak of. Wouldn’t happen to have a link or part number would you?

[Arith2]

Great advice. I ordered the kit from fcp euro which came with most of what you advised above and no bolts because I’m supposed to reused them. Got ATF fluid, steering coupler, front subframe reinforcement plates, injectors, and plugs

I need to get the oil pump o rings and this gasket sealer you speak of. Wouldn’t happen to have a link or part number would you?

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BL93-USA-01-2006-E46-BMW-M3&diagId=11_1579

[Jersey_M3]

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BL93-USA-01-2006-E46-BMW-M3&diagId=11_1579

Thanks. I should of been more clear, was asking about the Toyota gasket maker

[Arith2]

00295-00103

That's their oil pan gasket sealer. What was on mine was clear but I can't seem to find the clear stuff. Either way, it takes like 10-15 years for Toyotas to start leaking.

[eacmen]

00295-00103

That's their oil pan gasket sealer. What was on mine was clear but I can't seem to find the clear stuff. Either way, it takes like 10-15 years for Toyotas to start leaking.

This is where i get it from:

Genuine Toyota Fluid 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EDDTV0..._eYCGFb5B4KB18

Don't overdo it, make sure the surfaces are clean. I use a red 3M pad to clean any gaskey surface and it works well without being too abrasive.

3M 07447 Scotch-Brite Maroon General Purpose Hand Pad,20 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SQYF0..._W0CGFbZ8T624X


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[NealfromNZ]

Been looking into doing mine.

One of the learnings from the reading was that the early m3s had m11 rod bolts where as some time 2002/3 they change to m10. M11 rod bolts reusable and m10 are to be replaced. Personally I was thinking arp bolts , but I’d need to double check before ordering as some engines which ran the earlier m11s were replaced under the advisory. With mine the bearings were done at 19,000 kilometres, but engines is now at 175,000

[Obioban]

Been looking into doing mine.

One of the learnings from the reading was that the early m3s had m11 rod bolts where as some time 2002/3 they change to m10. M11 rod bolts reusable and m10 are to be replaced. Personally I was thinking arp bolts , but I’d need to double check before ordering as some engines which ran the earlier m11s were replaced under the advisory. With mine the bearings were done at 19,000 kilometres, but engines is now at 175,000

The ARPs are a a downgrade from the stock bolts. Less round bore, less clamping force, more expensive.