Build Journal Megane RS BBK Kit available this morning.

[tnord]

This type of rotation would not be beneficial for any car, street or race, but maybe canyon bois use this trick.

I mean, I spent 7 years racing with SCCA in SM/ITA, built multiple cars for myself and others, crewed/co-drove on multiple winning enduro teams, and finished 4th at the ARRC sprint race and 1st in the endurance race. but I guess I'm a canyon boi.

https://www.diyautotune.com/news/res...-of-champions/

[r4dr]

That FreakyParts kit looks good, especially the 360 mm version. Would the only downside be increased unsprung weight?

[CrookedCommie]

what is incorrect about his statement?

If you move bias towards rear on a front engine car where most of the weight under braking is going to be in the front, you will (this part he correctly said) lose rear traction - unfortunately, physics works differently in the real world, and when you lose traction, you can't increase braking. This type of rotation would not be beneficial for any car, street or race, but maybe canyon bois use this trick.

[elbert]

Brand new calipers,

The Buildjournal description (at the top) lists the calipers as new. But if you scroll down, it says "TUV Certified reconditioned calipers"
I guess it depends on what is reconditioned, but in any case I would still consider it as a used item.

[foolio]

Agree to disagree I guess. I have only ever used the red loctite on wheel studs and floating rotor ring hardware, and front diff bolt. All required heat to remove with hand tools.

You sure you're not confusing it with blue loctite that also comes in a red bottle?

I’m with eacman on this. Red Loctite is for stuff you really do not want to come apart without a fight. It is odd that they often put blue in the red colored bottles.

[S14]

Please refrain from ever commenting on brake bias again.

what is incorrect about his statement?

[S14]

CSL is a different car than stock in terms of weight distribution and suspension set-up, so I wouldn't assume that the CSL bias is the right thing to aim for on a non-CSL M3.

realistically, how different is the CSL from the reg M3 in weight distribution?

To your second sentence, what is the correct bias to aim for if you have other than stock E46 M3? Say you took 300lbs out of the car, stiffened the suspension and made it adjustable outside of standard form (camber plates/adjustable lower control arms etc.) would it be most correct to keep the stock bias, or would more rearward brake bias be better?

[CrookedCommie]

moving bias rearward will improve braking performance as it "better" utilizes available traction. it will have more of a tendency to lock the rears and rotate, which can be "less safe" in a street car however.

Please refrain from ever commenting on brake bias again.

[ATB88]

That's true, and those things will affect the optimum balance, I was just speaking more generally. I believe that just in the way that the majority of street cars are set up for understeer, they're also set up with too much forward bias.

Whoops meant to quote OP's question, not your response to imply that you gave a bad answer Yeah that's a good point.

[eacmen]

I've used tubes and tubes and tubes of the stuff on brakes, drivetrains, exhaust, and engine components. I've never used heat to remove.

Agree to disagree I guess. I have only ever used the red loctite on wheel studs and floating rotor ring hardware, and front diff bolt. All required heat to remove with hand tools.

You sure you're not confusing it with blue loctite that also comes in a red bottle?

[tnord]

CSL is a different car than stock in terms of weight distribution and suspension set-up, so I wouldn't assume that the CSL bias is the right thing to aim for on a non-CSL M3.

That's true, and those things will affect the optimum balance, I was just speaking more generally. I believe that just in the way that the majority of street cars are set up for understeer, they're also set up with too much forward bias.

[tnord]

I disagree. Every fastener I have ever used with red loctite applied has required heat to be removed. The maker of Loctite also recommends using heat when removing:

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/...eadlocker.html

I've used tubes and tubes and tubes of the stuff on brakes, drivetrains, exhaust, and engine components. I've never used heat to remove.

[ATB88]

moving bias rearward will improve braking performance as it "better" utilizes available traction. it will have more of a tendency to lock the rears and rotate, which can be "less safe" in a street car however.

CSL is a different car than stock in terms of weight distribution and suspension set-up, so I wouldn't assume that the CSL bias is the right thing to aim for on a non-CSL M3.

[eacmen]

I disagree. I've used a lot of red loctite in my day, I've never found it more difficult to remove those bolts.

red is for use in high heat applications, blue is not.

I disagree. Every fastener I have ever used with red loctite applied has required heat to be removed. The maker of Loctite also recommends using heat when removing:

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/insights/all-insights/blog/how-to-remove-red-threadlocker.html

Without applying heat to the assembly, it’s likely that over time, a bolt would break before coming loose.

[tnord]

Not all loctite is the same. What you are saying is true for blue loctite. Red loctite is very hard to break free without heat.


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I disagree. I've used a lot of red loctite in my day, I've never found it more difficult to remove those bolts.

red is for use in high heat applications, blue is not.