Matt Coyne @ Kassel Rod Bearing (UPDATE Miss-Installed Sprocket Tore into Oil Pan)

[Grke46m3]

I think you might be fine with the bearings and a vanos clean out as well as removing all the oil still in the oil cooler. Then do a few oil changes within 1500miles. But the fact that he knew about it and didn’t try to fix things in the beginning and let you drive 3k is irresponsible.


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[Phoenix///M3]

Sorry to hear it but thanks for posting. You may have saved someone a similar fate.

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[jbfrancis3]

The fact that this asshole knew about the issue originally, hoped you would go away, and then reluctantly and indifferently explains next steps solidifies that he ain't worth supporting anytime in the future. You're best bet is probably to let him resolve it without further cost to you, further disruption, getting another party involved, and the impossible battle to claw anything back. But then he can fck right off and create an opportunity for someone else to distinguish themselves.

[digger]

Pull the head and vanos inspect and clean at same time as bearings that will be enough

[yhp2009]

Man for what its worth im sorry you have to go thru this. Hope you find a worthy resolution soon

[sapote]

How is it not obvious the oil sprocket was on wrong? Not sure if it is possible since I cant recall what it looks like in there but I feel like that would put excessive strain on the chain if it was run like that

The wrong side of the sprocket would offset forward about 1/8" or less -- see how deep the cut on the oil pan. So with with small offset the chain still ran OK but noisy and this helped them to detect the error and flipped the sprocket back.

[Icecream]

How is it not obvious the oil sprocket was on wrong? Not sure if it is possible since I cant recall what it looks like in there but I feel like that would put excessive strain on the chain if it was run like that (since if memory serves me correct it would be sitting 1/4"to 1/2" out of parallel with the cam sprockets) which may have also scraped on the timing chain cover or else where and sent metal other places. Just something else to consider.
I also don't see how metal would get past the filter and cause scoring tbh unless maybe there is a bypass valve in there. And, if the rod bearings are scored from metal, the main bearings are too.

[Titaniu//M]

I would not be comfortable with the proposed repair. Maybe I'd go this route if I screwed up the job trying to DIY it, but I wouldn't accept it as a resolution if I paid a professional to do the job from the start.

[Thoglan]

This is an unfortunate and expensive mistake for all involved.
Trying to cheap out to minimise shop loss does not imply appology .
The engine needs to be disassembled the oil galleys cleaned out with brushes. Then the short block, cylinder head and crank should be hot tanked.

Agree with this 100%. Just replacing bearings and oil pump and cleaning the pan is not sufficient. I would be requiring them to have the engine completely disassembled, hot tanked, cleaned, new rings, block honed, crank hot tanked and polished, vanos rebuilt etc. Head needs to be disassembled and carefully inspected. I've seen the tops of the cam lobes on these motors be worn from just excess bearing material making its way through the oil. This situation is a real bummer but not yours to bare. The shop is completely at fault and I would be requiring them to adequately correct their mistake.

[mrgizmo04]

OP, really sucks, sorry you have to deal with this around holidays.

That said, the first thing that oil hits after being picked up by the sump/pump is the oil filter before being sent to all the other galleys and parts. If the oil level was not overfilled to where crank would be bathing in it at bdc, the other parts should be fine. "Scoring" on the shells in picture looks like wear to me.

One of few times I might run Blackstone. If the filter was doing its job, oil in the pan should not have high al content.

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[ATB88]

Entirely unhelpful comment, but, in sympathy: OOF this suuuuucks.

[FBloggs]

This is an unfortunate and expensive mistake for all involved.
Trying to cheap out to minimise shop loss does not imply appology .
The engine needs to be disassembled the oil galleys cleaned out with brushes. Then the short block, cylinder head and crank should be hot tanked.

[sapote]

Sorry to hear this. I understand the AL chips pulled up by the oil pump and went to the oil filter housing, but they should be caught and filtered by the oil filter. So why the chips reached to the rod bearings and scored them? If the chips indeed somehow bypassed the filter and reach the rod bearings, then they also reached to every parts that need oil such as crank main bearing, cam bearings, VANOS. Of course the chips also could log inside between engine cylinder walls and pistons.

To really correct this nasty problem, I would try to find out is it true that the new rod bearings were scored by the AL chips or it was just a normal result of new bearings breaking in. How could the chips bypass the oil filter?

If the bearings scored by the chips then the followings need to be done:
1. change all rod and main bearings (which Matt already agreed).
2. remove the head, VANOS, cams, rockers and shafts and off the head, then use compressed oil to back flush all cam and rocker shafts oil feeding holes (after remove the oil check valves off the head). This is to ensure no chips remain in the head.
3. Dissemble VANOS and replace/clean all filters. Dissemble solenoid block and clean all oil channels.
4. With head removed and crank removed, it's easy to pull out all pistons and clean them and the cylinder walls.
5. Replace oil cooler and hoses
6. remove and clean Oil filter housing
7. replace the oil pump.

I hate to pay someone and ended up unhappy result. Years ago -- around 1993 -- I was too busy to work on my cars and paid a "good mechanic" to rebuild my 1974 E9 3.0CSi for $5000; a good sum of money back then. He worked on many exotic cars like Ferrari, Maserati, BMW. Anyway, I politely remind him that the cams oil spray pipes (mounted above the cams) looked symmetrical but they were not, and if they were installed the other way then the spay oil would miss the cam lobes by 1". He was upset and told me don't tell him what to do as he would not tell me how to design electronic circuits. Fair enough. As I picked up the car and heard a strange noise at the water pump belts, he explained that the noise would go away as the new belt worn in. I drove it home that evening and kept thinking about the strange noise. Next morning I checked a saw he used different belts than stock ones and had looped the belt wrong, causing the 2 belts fighting each other, hence the noise of the slipping belt which lost the battle. Arrrr, I was so mad, and proceeded to open the valve cover and checked the oil spay tubes. Sure enough they both were installed the wrong way. I called and he told me to bring it back. I said I will never want to see him again, and took care the problems myself. I have never had anyone worked on my cars since that day.

[Sprp85]

Yikes.

I guess I need to reconsider driving up an hour and half for rod bearing job next spring.

Reading this thread reminded me; when I had my RACP CMP bar done, they forgot to tighten section 1 to section 2 flange bolts fully; and one of em just dropped out after days of rattling... very minor mistake compared to the OP's issue but still. Hmm...

[Fresh1179]

IMHO I would take the car to to another local, knowledgeable shop, explain to them the situation, and ask them what engine parts could have conceivably, in an abundance of caution, been damaged, altered, or destroyed by the based off the actions referenced above. It might costs you a couple hundred bucks, but you will likely get a a comprehensive answer as to all of the parts that may have been damaged. In all likelihood, they will tell you that it may require the engine to be disassembled to assess the damage. Ask them the cost for such services to inspect the engine to determine the scope of any possible damages, as well as the replacement parts. I think this is %100 the first step you need to take. Right now, you are wholly reliant upon the representations of a party who performed substandard work to tell you how they think they should fix it. Based upon the situation presented with respect to notice regarding the damage, and the fact that it is in their financial interest to replace the minimal amounts of parts possible you have to to have neutral party take a look. The goal is to be made whole. If that requires additional work and additional replacement parts then so be it. Let us know if you go this route as I may have additional advice. If the second shop offers to to remove any engine parts to check for damage they need to be documented thoroughly with a high resolution camera. If you have a GoPro or other device capable of recording the inspection, that is an additional good measure.


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