My review: Koni Yellows / Eibach Springs on a daily driven M3

[heinzboehmer]

@heinzboehmer It looks really tight. I just purchased the B12 so Im hoping for a very similar drop. Btw did you use any of the thicker spring pads or strut reinforcement plates?

I've got the BMW reinforcement plates up front. Besides that, everything else is stock. I do have CMP solid subframe raising bushings in the rear, but those shouldn't affect ride height.

[yhp2009]

@heinzboehmer It looks really tight. I just purchased the B12 so Im hoping for a very similar drop. Btw did you use any of the thicker spring pads or strut reinforcement plates?

[heinzboehmer]

Just installed this same setup on my car and took some pics. Tried to keep the angles/lighting/etc as consistent as possible. The pics were taken hours after I installed the springs, so I'm expecting the car to drop more with time. I'll take some more pics in the future. Top are before and bottom are after.

[Tbonem3]

the gap will diminish some more

[r4dr]

That's interesting that the springs introduce some forward rake, since I believe stock the front fender opening is slightly higher. Glad you like the car though, you've almost sold me on getting this setup myself.

[cbean]

Thank you . . . great first person / experiential write up.

I have some Koni's in my garage ready to go on the car However, I did go with the Dinan Springs, hopefully they give me an equally satisfying experience as your Eibachs!

[ChapterM3]

Update after I drove the car today on a long highway drive and also some REALLY nice on/off ramps and a very winding two-lane highway with no cars on it:

This thing is a new car. It's simply incredible to me how much of a night and day difference it feels driving. Now I lived in Germany for 10 years, owned a Scirocco R, a GTI, been in all kinds of cars at 150mph+ for hours on the autobahn and from this experience, I have gained a feeling of how a car should feel at high speeds. The cornering ability is key in some turns even though such a road is absolutely suited for all vehicles that are put out there (as are the cars to handle those speeds) - with cars that have over 250hp and are capable of 150mph+, there is a certain feeling you have in the turning ability, the way weight is transferred, the way that your confidence sits at all times. This is different though completely as you go up in horsepower and speed. For example, driving a mk7 GTI at 150mph vs. a 991 911 at 150mph is a night and day difference. A GTI feels at its limit at 150mph where a 911 feels like it's just getting warmed up and you can cruise at that speed comfortably.

With all of that being said - I've felt my M3 go from a GTI to a 911 with this suspension change. Hands down, night and day difference. The way the car feels in higher speed curves on that winding two-lane highway, it took it with such ease. Where I would be going say 60mph and feel like "alright that's enough", I can be going 90 and feel like "oh this feels like 40". That's what I experienced today. I've not felt such a difference in a car - granted my previous suspension on the car was a hack job that needed to go to a junk yard asap - but it really handles itself incredibly. Today, I absolutely by accident, hit 135mph in the car today just trying to pass a truck. Now I know, the car has no power difference, but why I said by accident is because I felt absolutely no change in my comfort, confidence, or ability to control the vehicle at such a speed whereas before, I would hit 100 and be like ok, that's enough.

So yes, I'm a happy guy and yes I can't wait to continue to drive this thing again! It's such a blast.

[ChapterM3]

Ride height from center cap to fender: just around 13.875" Front AND Rear

Thank you guys for the responses - I read this just as I was getting home from a photoshoot so I went out to the car to measure it. Please excuse me my phone for some reason only saved the FRONT of the measurement and not the rear (no idea what happened) but they're both the SAME HEIGHT right around 13.875"

Here's the shot of the front, again sorry about the rear picture no idea what happened - I had someone hold the tape for me so I could take the first photo and then they took the photo for the rear as I held the tape, but it didn't save.

Now my theory on the same ride height - perhaps the car hasn't settled yet?! I really can't believe that though as I've already done about 85 miles on the car, had it on the highway today for 2 hours and it feels amazing. With that said I would imagine it's settled and should be at its height now.

One side note that I thought to add on this: I do have a very faint, consistent, squeak that ONLY happens when the car is cold in the morning when I turn the wheel from side to side. I'm guessing these are the new bushings setting in, and, considering it was 34-37 degrees out the last days in Boston, I could imagine that might be why.

I’ve had this setup on my car for almost 10 years now. The car really does feel firmly planted and has handled well at the track. The only complaint I have is the car sits much lower and speed bumps/curbs and steep driveways pose more of a danger than before. I’ve had to replace my front bumper and splitters a couple times.

That's great to hear about how long you've had it! That's awesome. How much track time has the car seen on this setup? And I feel you with the steep driveway - i went in for gas at a normal spot and came in straight on a left hand turn and just barely scraped the bumper and I was like oh F it's back to this slow and steady doesn't scrape the bumper vibe. Haven't been in a lowered car in a long time.

If you use the stock top mounts, the only way to lower the car is by losing travel. The better way to lower the car, is to move the fixed connection (mount) higher up. Thus, the car goes down without losing travel. That can only get you about 5/8-3/4" though. You can get some more by removing unnecessary spacers/washers (if you have any). I've managed to get almost an inch which means I've not compromised my struts (B6) even though I'm at the popular 13.5" height.

Got it! Well it seems like I won't need those I guess sitting at 13.875? I really don't mind the height at all and happy with the ride!

great write up. so is it safe to say that the front is slightly lower than the rear? Thats always a concern of mine when getting these types of kits.

Apparently not after I measured it tonight! Same height! 13.875" - wild.

The photo looks like the front fender opening is slightly higher than the rear, which is how it's supposed to be I think. OP, if you get a chance, it would be informative to know the center cap to fender distance to see how close it is to the recommended 13.5"/13" I see around here.

Difference in gap should be about .5". Eibach springs increase that gap with a drop of -.06" Front & -0.9" rear. H&R does the opposite, for example, at -1.2" F and .5", eliminating the natural differential in stock height.

Not as much travel is required in the rear as the front. The rear spring is stiffer to catch up to the front (it's a lot stiffer, but some of that is reduced by its location, inboard, on the lower control arm vs. front macphe strut springs' outboard location).

Second this. That would be great info to have.

See above guys! thank you for mentioning this, happy to help out!

[Tbonem3]

Difference in gap should be about .5". Eibach springs increase that gap with a drop of -.06" Front & -0.9" rear. H&R does the opposite, for example, at -1.2" F and .5", eliminating the natural differential in stock height.

Not as much travel is required in the rear as the front. The rear spring is stiffer to catch up to the front (it's a lot stiffer, but some of that is reduced by its location, inboard, on the lower control arm vs. front macphe strut springs' outboard location).

[heinzboehmer]

OP, if you get a chance, it would be informative to know the center cap to fender distance to see how close it is to the recommended 13.5"/13" I see around here.

Second this. That would be great info to have.

[r4dr]

The photo looks like the front fender opening is slightly higher than the rear, which is how it's supposed to be I think. OP, if you get a chance, it would be informative to know the center cap to fender distance to see how close it is to the recommended 13.5"/13" I see around here.

[trudriv3r]

great write up. so is it safe to say that the front is slightly lower than the rear? Thats always a concern of mine when getting these types of kits.

[Tbonem3]

Nope! What's the advantage to run those? I'm guessing I would be able to tell if I couldn't get full shock travel, but I'm not sure? I'm running -1.4 camber all around from the readout from the alignment that was just done

If you use the stock top mounts, the only way to lower the car is by losing travel. The better way to lower the car, is to move the fixed connection (mount) higher up. Thus, the car goes down without losing travel. That can only get you about 5/8-3/4" though. You can get some more by removing unnecessary spacers/washers (if you have any). I've managed to get almost an inch which means I've not compromised my struts (B6) even though I'm at the popular 13.5" height.

[Mspir3d]

I’ve had this setup on my car for almost 10 years now. The car really does feel firmly planted and has handled well at the track. The only complaint I have is the car sits much lower and speed bumps/curbs and steep driveways pose more of a danger than before. I’ve had to replace my front bumper and splitters a couple times.

[ChapterM3]

Great write up and excellent input for someone who daily drives and doesn’t want a track beast.

Thank you!! That's what I was going for