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My review: Koni Yellows / Eibach Springs on a daily driven M3

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    My review: Koni Yellows / Eibach Springs on a daily driven M3

    Hey Everyone,

    I bought and had a Koni Yellow kit with Eibach springs installed and wanted to write a quick review for anyone looking to get this setup. I debated forever on whether or not to go with Dinan springs over the Eibachs but after a lot of research it seems that Eibach for me was the right move considering the availability during the pandemic and also because I drove another M3 with them installed and loved the way it drove.

    So to give you the full run down I wrote this all up for you - here we go:

    Background -
    I'm posting this as a few guys and I had a massive discussion in a facebook messenger group about why spending $1k on suspension is bullshit in comparison to saving for $3k coilovers. So I'm not trying to start any massive conversations again but just want to tell you my perspective. For me, I researched this kit FOREVER on this forum and others, and realized at the end of the day this was the right kit for me. Price-wise, performance-wise, all of it. I simply could not justify spending more than $1k on suspension for this reason and with all the positive reviews of this setup I decided to go for it.

    Why I bought the kit -
    The previous owner installed rear Bilstein OE shocks on it with ZHP springs for some reason and the fronts I believe were the originals with 140k on them now. There was a faint and annoying as F chatter in the back of the car, and a bump that I could not get to go away. The chatter I suspected after a ton of research could be from the rear shock towers banging against perhaps an old worn out bump stop. So I said alright let's get this hackjob kit outa here and in with a proper daily driver setup.

    How I drive my car -
    It's my daily which I put away for parts of the winter. I love to daily it and not track it, just to enjoy the beautiful drive this car has and just love my everyday with it. It puts a smile on my face every day I get in it, and I like to keep it like that. I drive it in city conditions and highway, the car sees everything. All except a track, which I would not go on with the car for the longevity of keeping it daily and fun.

    My thoughts after the kit was installed -
    As soon as I got the car on the road I felt like it was a luxury performance car. The car felt like night and day on this setup especially considering the Frankenstein suspension it had before. After driving it a few days it feels to me exactly what I want: soft enough to drive around the city, but when i throw it into an off-ramp or corners on a winding road it feels exactly as I want it to be: solid, tight, predictable. Anyone that knows Storrow Drive going into Boston knows the curves in there: it just feels planted when going through those curves. With potholes, it's better than it was on stock and even softer at that. I would describe the ride as more of a luxury feel than a performance feeling and for me day to day that's totally cool. The settings I went with were from Koni recommendations: 25% less from full soft in the front and rear. Really a happy guy driving it and I think it gave it a nice little drop as well. Not that much and I'm happy about that! I never did this replacement for any type of lowering, only for ride, performance gains and comfort. On top of all of this, the chatter from the rear was GONE and the bump as well! Hell yeah!

    Where I got it installed -
    My homie Emil at Auto Engineering installed it and I can't recommend him enough. He's been a close friend since elementary school and is the best in the area - over 10 years of working on BMW's. I love Auto Engineering as well and bring my car there for legit everything: from oil changes to Rod bearings to VANOS to this. Just want to shout them out as I really love them over there!

    I hope this is received well as seriously I'm not trying to cause another discussion - just wanted to add this to consider for a daily driven M3 that was more than happy to only spend around $1k on suspension. If you have any questions or comments, of course, feel free to leave them.

    Jonathan
    Attached Files
    Last edited by ChapterM3; 12-05-2020, 01:14 PM.
    - Jonathan


    2004 M3 6MT Carbon Black OEM+ | Vortex Days

    #2
    Did you do the shortened sway bar links? Thanks for the write up.

    Comment


      #3
      Nice write up and I agree with your comments as I run the same. Did you install camber plates? I run the GC street plates which gets you the full shock travel with the Koni's.

      Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

      Comment


        #4
        Great write up and excellent input for someone who daily drives and doesn’t want a track beast.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by lunar50 View Post
          Did you do the shortened sway bar links? Thanks for the write up.
          Nope! My buddy Emil said I didn't need them and I didn't either. So far so good!
          - Jonathan


          2004 M3 6MT Carbon Black OEM+ | Vortex Days

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Phoenix///M3 View Post
            Nice write up and I agree with your comments as I run the same. Did you install camber plates? I run the GC street plates which gets you the full shock travel with the Koni's.

            Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
            Nope! What's the advantage to run those? I'm guessing I would be able to tell if I couldn't get full shock travel, but I'm not sure? I'm running -1.4 camber all around from the readout from the alignment that was just done
            - Jonathan


            2004 M3 6MT Carbon Black OEM+ | Vortex Days

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Ramps View Post
              Great write up and excellent input for someone who daily drives and doesn’t want a track beast.
              Thank you!! That's what I was going for
              - Jonathan


              2004 M3 6MT Carbon Black OEM+ | Vortex Days

              Comment


                #8
                I’ve had this setup on my car for almost 10 years now. The car really does feel firmly planted and has handled well at the track. The only complaint I have is the car sits much lower and speed bumps/curbs and steep driveways pose more of a danger than before. I’ve had to replace my front bumper and splitters a couple times.
                IG: https://www.instagram.com/mspir3d/

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by ChapterM3 View Post

                  Nope! What's the advantage to run those? I'm guessing I would be able to tell if I couldn't get full shock travel, but I'm not sure? I'm running -1.4 camber all around from the readout from the alignment that was just done
                  If you use the stock top mounts, the only way to lower the car is by losing travel. The better way to lower the car, is to move the fixed connection (mount) higher up. Thus, the car goes down without losing travel. That can only get you about 5/8-3/4" though. You can get some more by removing unnecessary spacers/washers (if you have any). I've managed to get almost an inch which means I've not compromised my struts (B6) even though I'm at the popular 13.5" height.
                  DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                  /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
                  More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

                  Comment


                    #10
                    great write up. so is it safe to say that the front is slightly lower than the rear? Thats always a concern of mine when getting these types of kits.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The photo looks like the front fender opening is slightly higher than the rear, which is how it's supposed to be I think. OP, if you get a chance, it would be informative to know the center cap to fender distance to see how close it is to the recommended 13.5"/13" I see around here.
                      '03.5 M3 SMG Coupe - Jet Black / Black

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by r4dr View Post
                        OP, if you get a chance, it would be informative to know the center cap to fender distance to see how close it is to the recommended 13.5"/13" I see around here.
                        Second this. That would be great info to have.
                        2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                        2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Difference in gap should be about .5". Eibach springs increase that gap with a drop of -.06" Front & -0.9" rear. H&R does the opposite, for example, at -1.2" F and .5", eliminating the natural differential in stock height.

                          Not as much travel is required in the rear as the front. The rear spring is stiffer to catch up to the front (it's a lot stiffer, but some of that is reduced by its location, inboard, on the lower control arm vs. front macphe strut springs' outboard location).
                          DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                          /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
                          More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Ride height from center cap to fender: just around 13.875" Front AND Rear

                            Thank you guys for the responses - I read this just as I was getting home from a photoshoot so I went out to the car to measure it. Please excuse me my phone for some reason only saved the FRONT of the measurement and not the rear (no idea what happened) but they're both the SAME HEIGHT right around 13.875"

                            Here's the shot of the front, again sorry about the rear picture no idea what happened - I had someone hold the tape for me so I could take the first photo and then they took the photo for the rear as I held the tape, but it didn't save.

                            Now my theory on the same ride height - perhaps the car hasn't settled yet?! I really can't believe that though as I've already done about 85 miles on the car, had it on the highway today for 2 hours and it feels amazing. With that said I would imagine it's settled and should be at its height now.

                            One side note that I thought to add on this: I do have a very faint, consistent, squeak that ONLY happens when the car is cold in the morning when I turn the wheel from side to side. I'm guessing these are the new bushings setting in, and, considering it was 34-37 degrees out the last days in Boston, I could imagine that might be why.


                            Originally posted by Mspir3d View Post
                            I’ve had this setup on my car for almost 10 years now. The car really does feel firmly planted and has handled well at the track. The only complaint I have is the car sits much lower and speed bumps/curbs and steep driveways pose more of a danger than before. I’ve had to replace my front bumper and splitters a couple times.
                            That's great to hear about how long you've had it! That's awesome. How much track time has the car seen on this setup? And I feel you with the steep driveway - i went in for gas at a normal spot and came in straight on a left hand turn and just barely scraped the bumper and I was like oh F it's back to this slow and steady doesn't scrape the bumper vibe. Haven't been in a lowered car in a long time.

                            Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post

                            If you use the stock top mounts, the only way to lower the car is by losing travel. The better way to lower the car, is to move the fixed connection (mount) higher up. Thus, the car goes down without losing travel. That can only get you about 5/8-3/4" though. You can get some more by removing unnecessary spacers/washers (if you have any). I've managed to get almost an inch which means I've not compromised my struts (B6) even though I'm at the popular 13.5" height.
                            Got it! Well it seems like I won't need those I guess sitting at 13.875? I really don't mind the height at all and happy with the ride!


                            Originally posted by trudriv3r View Post
                            great write up. so is it safe to say that the front is slightly lower than the rear? Thats always a concern of mine when getting these types of kits.
                            Apparently not after I measured it tonight! Same height! 13.875" - wild.


                            ​​​​​​​
                            Originally posted by r4dr View Post
                            The photo looks like the front fender opening is slightly higher than the rear, which is how it's supposed to be I think. OP, if you get a chance, it would be informative to know the center cap to fender distance to see how close it is to the recommended 13.5"/13" I see around here.

                            Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
                            Difference in gap should be about .5". Eibach springs increase that gap with a drop of -.06" Front & -0.9" rear. H&R does the opposite, for example, at -1.2" F and .5", eliminating the natural differential in stock height.

                            Not as much travel is required in the rear as the front. The rear spring is stiffer to catch up to the front (it's a lot stiffer, but some of that is reduced by its location, inboard, on the lower control arm vs. front macphe strut springs' outboard location).
                            Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

                            Second this. That would be great info to have.
                            See above guys! thank you for mentioning this, happy to help out!

                            - Jonathan


                            2004 M3 6MT Carbon Black OEM+ | Vortex Days

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Update after I drove the car today on a long highway drive and also some REALLY nice on/off ramps and a very winding two-lane highway with no cars on it:

                              This thing is a new car. It's simply incredible to me how much of a night and day difference it feels driving. Now I lived in Germany for 10 years, owned a Scirocco R, a GTI, been in all kinds of cars at 150mph+ for hours on the autobahn and from this experience, I have gained a feeling of how a car should feel at high speeds. The cornering ability is key in some turns even though such a road is absolutely suited for all vehicles that are put out there (as are the cars to handle those speeds) - with cars that have over 250hp and are capable of 150mph+, there is a certain feeling you have in the turning ability, the way weight is transferred, the way that your confidence sits at all times. This is different though completely as you go up in horsepower and speed. For example, driving a mk7 GTI at 150mph vs. a 991 911 at 150mph is a night and day difference. A GTI feels at its limit at 150mph where a 911 feels like it's just getting warmed up and you can cruise at that speed comfortably.

                              With all of that being said - I've felt my M3 go from a GTI to a 911 with this suspension change. Hands down, night and day difference. The way the car feels in higher speed curves on that winding two-lane highway, it took it with such ease. Where I would be going say 60mph and feel like "alright that's enough", I can be going 90 and feel like "oh this feels like 40". That's what I experienced today. I've not felt such a difference in a car - granted my previous suspension on the car was a hack job that needed to go to a junk yard asap - but it really handles itself incredibly. Today, I absolutely by accident, hit 135mph in the car today just trying to pass a truck. Now I know, the car has no power difference, but why I said by accident is because I felt absolutely no change in my comfort, confidence, or ability to control the vehicle at such a speed whereas before, I would hit 100 and be like ok, that's enough.

                              So yes, I'm a happy guy and yes I can't wait to continue to drive this thing again! It's such a blast.
                              - Jonathan


                              2004 M3 6MT Carbon Black OEM+ | Vortex Days

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