Engine won't time post Vanos install

[Cubieman]

No, not pass TDC; set it just before TDC about 2 or 3mm on the pulley arc.

Ok, so I was feeling a bit lazy and just wanted to try something but didn't want to remove the vanos just yet for the forth time.

This following is at TDC w/lock crank locking pin installed and cam lobes 45°, both cams retarded.

The intake cam is perfect in that the cam timing pin slides freely and bridge is flat.

The exhaust cam is within spec, I couldn't get a .203mm feeler in between the gap between the bridge and intake side of engine head.

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The following condition was accomplished by turning the crank and loosening the bottom 3 hub bolts, then turning crank back to TDC w/ cam lobes 45° but the crank was set JUST before the crank lock pin could be inserted, so the crank lock pin was left out.

The top 3 hub bolts were loosened and the cams were timed (moved around now loose) using the bridge.

Top 3 hub bolts tightened, the crank was then turned and the bottom 3 bolts were torqued "by feel".

The crank was turned again to TDC lobes 45° with crank lock pin installed and the top 3 hub bolts were torqued "by feel".

This ended up with an acceptable setup according to the bridge.

So it sounds like I need to remove the vanos and replicate what I've just done?

EDIT: And by replicate I mean removing the vanos, putting it back on,pre-tension etc., but leave the crank at TDC just before crank lock pin can be inserted and THEN time the cams.
It would seem that was the key to getting everything lined up as you had previously indicated.

[sapote]

Yes, but torque the hub bolts to spec using socket.
Make sore solenoid plate is loose or removed and spline shafts are inserted only 5mm in the hubs and pistons moved forward into Vanos before pushing Vanos to head wire bolts. Do slowly and evenly watching the pump drive tabs/holes.