Avin Avant 3 Internal Amplifier

[Icecream]

I have been using a cheap crutchfield amp on my car with Avin for a while. Doesn't sound great but gets me by. I wanted to see what the Avin used internally (to see if getting rid of the external amp and installing some 2 ohm speakers might be a good way to go). The plan was to see if there was room for improvement namely with the TDA7560, since it has a lot of power (relatively with a 2 ohm load). But, after popping the Avin open, I see it uses a TDA7850 which actually has a negligible difference in power and otherwise comparable across the board. So my upgrade will have to go a different direction (aside from upgrading the KSC 10000uF cap with a Japanese brand - probably won't affect the sound but its really the only serviceable part in there and why not eh?) . Was glad to see this chip inside though, the TDA7850 looks to be a solid (so long as it is integrated well and not a knockoff) and I think some quality high sensitivity speakers will sound pretty good with a small subwoofer in the trunk.
I'll probably go with the Infinity Kappa 60csx if they fit. They are 93 dB at 2.83 volts sensitivity and 2.5 ohm so they should be easy to drive with more than enough volume.

Some pics of the Amp inside below, quality is what you expect. This is the second Chinese board I have opened up (first was a failed power supply) that looks like it is 20 years old inside (messy solder, overheated, appears dirty with likely recycled parts - I put a new nichicon cap next to the KSC one for comparison, I guess it is good parts are being recycled but at least tell the consumer). What is cool to see is the HK amp from my M3 (which is 20 years old) is so pristine inside it looks like a piece of art. Megan racing vs Supersprint I guess .



Pretty sure that silver box on the right is actually a Chinese spy chip disguised as an FM tuner. Also just noticed the wifi antenna is soldered on. Probably another recycled part were the connector failed, I would think it should have the same connector as every other wifi antenna I have seen. It was also jammed up against the GPS antenna connector (which is probably why my speed read 5mph at a standstill sometimes lol).



Given how bad that solder is on the wifi/4g board pins, it's no wonder my connections are so spotty


TDA7850

[DELUXA1]

Hello. I saw your post here about Avin Avant 3 android radio. Maybe you can help me. I need to know whats that diode number or size or anything. Support wont help me because i didnt bought it there. Diode is marked with red arrow on picture.

[Icecream]

Hello. I saw your post here about Avin Avant 3 android radio. Maybe you can help me. I need to know whats that diode number or size or anything. Support wont help me because i didnt bought it there. Diode is marked with red arrow on picture.

See if you can read a part number and search mouser. Should pop right up. That said, ditch that piece of sh**. Mine busted after sitting untouched for a year and I am glad it did. Tried hooking my amp up direct to the components now (bi-amped, no crossover) via bluetooth adapter and the sound quality (through a subpar amp and 10$ bluetooth adapter) is infinitely better than anything I got from that avin unit. When it worked, it was a good solution. But smooth operation never lasted more than a couple months. I always knew the quality was bad but ALL of the poor sound quality was from the avin. Never again. Looking at a nice double din touch screen solution now from a known brand, aesthetics be damned (plus a buttonless widescreen will look fine and wireless android auto will be nice).

[tlow98]

Appreciate this post. I’ve been searching for an OE-like Hifi upgrade. I’m dreaming of a front-stage only with a small woofer hidden somewhere. Appreciate the info in here!

what did you end up doing with your setup Icecream?

[Icecream]

Appreciate this post. I’ve been searching for an OE-like Hifi upgrade. I’m dreaming of a front-stage only with a small woofer hidden somewhere. Appreciate the info in here!

what did you end up doing with your setup Icecream?

So at the moment, just some good polk components up front and a low/mid level amp driving them, no passive crossovers. I enjoy the sound enough that I'm not in a rush to add subs or change it (and i might be a bit of an audiophile saying that) but i can tell some sound deadening, mounting the speakers to the doors directly will make a tremndous difference, really excited about doing that.
eventually, I'd like to add a hifi 6 channel amp to a true set of components bi amped and 6x9's in the back for subs. I don't need everyone within a 10 mile radius to hear my bazz. And most good music doesn't need 20hz.

[maw1124]

I always knew the quality was bad but ALL of the poor sound quality was from the avin. Never again. Looking at a nice double din touch screen solution now from a known brand, aesthetics be damned (plus a buttonless widescreen will look fine and wireless android auto will be nice).

THAT PART (emphasis mine). Hooking high quality amps and speakers to these units just amplifies and clarifies exactly how piss poor they are.

The Dynavin D99 was like that -- it was so bad after I chased it down that Dynavin USA gave me like 1/2 off of the next unit WAY after the warranty period. It was "yeah, we use better guts now, less cell phone in your dash, more stereo system with cell phone compatibility." And now it's known as the audiophile version, but if Alpine made a unit that didn't look hideous in the dash I'd be all over it. I'd have to be because most installers won't even touch the cheap units anymore, for just this reason -- anyone who cares about sound quality will never be happy with these Alibaba units.

What's funny is, as long as they're playing through the factory amplification, their poor sound quality is masked by the HK gadgetry. The minute you wire them for pure sound you get pure trash.

maw

[bigjae46]

I had a double din in my 330Ci and I never even considered this AVIN or similar OEM+ products because a great head unit is so important.

I had old school OZ Audio comps with the superman logo. 6.5" mids mounted to the door (that was a challenge!) and the tweeters in the a-pillars in a custom FG pod. Sub was a single 12" in a large ported box. 3000 watts of power...sounded amazing!!! These cars are great for sound quality. Totally suck for SPL. I had to pump 2500 watts into a single 12 to hit 140dbs...that would normally get around 145ish.

[maw1124]

These cars are great for sound quality. Totally suck for SPL.

I'm not so sure about that, but given the specs you're quoting I'm sure you know better than me.

Two things on this:

(1) the BavSound speakers are actually very good (at least they were). Back in the day (before their "reorg") they were a lot better at advertising this. Their efficiency and range were as good or better than the big name speakers, USA made and sourced, etc. They were like a craft audio company using craft USA audio components, specifically dedicated to BMW -- a GREAT product, even if not a sustainable business model (people thought they cost too much, and didn't understand exactly what they were paying for). As it turns out, most BMW drivers aren't audiophiles -- who woulda thought?; and

(2) combining the above with similar quality (craft, audiophile quality) amplifiers + Dynamat in the doors and floors (of my Cabrio) yields surprisingly good SPL. Of course, I don't measure it, but you know it when you hear it. The thing knocks, is clear as a bell, is invisible, and I'm pushing very little power (85x4 + 300mono = no drained batteries here).

But to your point, all of that infrastructure DEMANDS a good head unit. Otherwise you just have clean, high SPL trash. And in the case of the Alibaba units, clean, high SPL trash that works not very well and not all of the time.

maw

[tlow98]

So at the moment, just some good polk components up front and a low/mid level amp driving them, no passive crossovers. I enjoy the sound enough that I'm not in a rush to add subs or change it (and i might be a bit of an audiophile saying that) but i can tell some sound deadening, mounting the speakers to the doors directly will make a tremndous difference, really excited about doing that.
eventually, I'd like to add a hifi 6 channel amp to a true set of components bi amped and 6x9's in the back for subs. I don't need everyone within a 10 mile radius to hear my bazz. And most good music doesn't need 20hz.

Good thoughts on the 6x9s. I’d forgotten about those. That’s the move for noticeable, not overkill bass and reasonable weight while keeping space, etc.

I deadened the rear doors when I had them apart. It helped. The fronts will be a bigger help.

door mounting the front speakers is another gem - thank you.

I was perusing the tiny Vibe British Audio amps for sub amplification. Ideally the a small-ish, but higher SQ amp for the front set. We’ll see.

[maw1124]

Ok, search function sux… door mounting speakers does what, add speaker depth for better drivers? Am I missing anything else (since I already have the Dynamat)? Will any competent shop know what I’m talking about? Will it still be invisible and look stock?

maw

[tlow98]

Ok, search function sux… door mounting speakers does what, add speaker depth for better drivers? Am I missing anything else (since I already have the Dynamat)? Will any competent shop know what I’m talking about? Will it still be invisible and look stock?

maw

My basic understanding is that the stiffer structure you can mount the speaker to the less resonance you’ll have. Effectively allowing you to do better given the same equipment.

Now, this means the extra work of the mount and also separating the front from the rear sound waves which is normally just sealing the front face of the speaker the the door panel with some foam.

it’s a balance tho - with too deep of a speaker you could run into window clearance issues, etc. I haven’t had the door open to look at that issue, however, so just thinking out loud.

[Icecream]

Ok, search function sux… door mounting speakers does what, add speaker depth for better drivers? Am I missing anything else (since I already have the Dynamat)? Will any competent shop know what I’m talking about? Will it still be invisible and look stock?

maw

It will look invisible. Mainly you will be mounted to a stiffer structure as tflow mentioned and won't be losing energy to shaking the panels plus better front/rear isolation of the speaker. It will require some cutting but with how much the door panel moves now I expect a big change in sound quality.

[maw1124]

It will look invisible. Mainly you will be mounted to a stiffer structure as tflow mentioned and won't be losing energy to shaking the panels plus better front/rear isolation of the speaker. It will require some cutting but with how much the door panel moves now I expect a big change in sound quality.

Please keep us posted. I have a couple competition level installers I can talk to about it, maybe even keep the BavSound fronts and get more out of them. I've already slated an amp upgrade for when I get time (a single 5 channel DSP with more power instead of separate cabin and sub amps), but that's low priority. Maybe I'll combine this with that for a more comprehensive upgrade. Good tip. Thanks. BTW, we have thoroughly hijacked the thread at this point.

😂

maw

[bigjae46]

Ok, search function sux… door mounting speakers does what, add speaker depth for better drivers? Am I missing anything else (since I already have the Dynamat)? Will any competent shop know what I’m talking about? Will it still be invisible and look stock?

maw

Yes, a much sturdier mounting and better sealing. The door cavity becomes the enclosure you can put a low Fs 6.5" mid in the door. If you put a really good tweeter that can handle a lower crossover point you might not even need a sub. The key will be a head unit with high voltage balanced outputs and a high power amp that can handle high voltage inputs (like a Zapco). Then you can keep the gains down not clip the signal. Clipping is the enemy in a setup like this.

The only part of the car I applied dynamat to was the trunk lid. I did put felt tape along the edge of a lot of trim to kill any rattles. The car placed 1st place in 3 of 3 local USACI SQ comps.

I'm not so sure about that, but given the specs you're quoting I'm sure you know better than me.

maw

I used to tune audio systems using a real-time analyzer. Sedans and most vehicles have an issue with a standing wave at between 80hz to 160hz from the front speakers. This isn't nearly as bad in an E46 compared to a lot of cars. Standing waves usually lower output at the driver's head which causes people to increase output below 500hz which causes clipping and also have a corresponding peak. You can use an EQ to smooth the peak and dip out but it is common to not have enough adjustment to get it close.

The best place for tweeters in this car is low A pillar. In a properly setup system with a quality signal path - you can get the freq spectrum close to flat with minor speaker mounting modifications.

That's what makes an audio system sound great. Very few or no eq adjustments will typically produce a natural and clear sound with depth. That hardest part to get is the depth...you destroy that with EQ adjustments.

[maw1124]

I find the acoustic setup with the ski pass sub, rear speakers at sitting level, handle mid tweets, etc. to be very good. It doesn't take much to get very good sound. But if you really want to drive power, well let the science project commence. I've tried to avoid that, and there's a certain peace to being done that I'm enjoying at the moment.

maw